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Customer Questions and Answers for Spark Module by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18059193
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10331686

The Spark Module is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool ranges. It is an electrical component that generates the spark needed to ignite the gas burners. By sparking consistently and reliably, the module allows the cooktop burners to ignite with each use. 

Causes of a bad spark module can include normal wear and tear over time, exposure to moisture or residue, or issues with the electronic components that produce the spark.

Symptoms of a bad spark module include:

  • Burners that will not ignite or light consistently  
  • Burners that ignite but then immediately go out
  • Only some of the burners lighting while others do not
  • A clicking sound coming from the ignitors but no visible spark

Note: For harness from spark module to igniters use part number 9756892.

This OEM Whirlpool replacement spark module is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models. 

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Spark Module (Part Number: OEM18059193)

1 Answer

Hello joycerich. Based on the information you provided, it sounds liek the control panel W10122294 is abd and will need to be replaced on the unit. If the button is not working, this is the issue. If the button works, but the unit does not come one, then the electronic control is the issue with the unit.

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Gonzalo C for Model Number whirlpool sf367lxsq

When I try to light the oven or broiler no one turns on. I checked the gas valve but the resistances are infinitive. So this means that the coils are opened, the gas valve indicates that 10vdc must be in the coils, but in the wires there is 50vdc. In the module when I cancel the 110vac does not dissapear and the 50 vdc continues in the wires keeping. In the case the coils are good, open the way for the gas. whats more when I try to light only bake the 50vdc are present for both coils, bake and broil,please I need your help with a schematic diagram on the module w10331686 and your indication if the 50vdc is correct, and why 110vac does not dissapear when I cancel. I will appreciate your help.

1 Answer

Hello Gonzalo, When measuring resistance for the gas valve you would need to check between broil and common and between bake and common. You should have 216 ohms for each solenoid. If you do not have 216 then you have a bad valve WPW10293048. If the solenoid test good to the coils then you would want to check the ignitor WP8054129 upper, AP3594295][ and the board WPW10331686.

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1 Answer

Gary, You most likely have a defective DSI spark module WPW10331686. To properly diagnose the situation, access the module, disconnect the J1 connector from the module. with a multimeter, set for 120 VAC, insert the test probes into pin #4(white) and pin #9(red/black), then turn each knob to the "lite" position, You should read 120 VAC across the wires on each test. If soo, your switches and wiring are OK, and you'll need the spark module, if no voltage occurs , then you'll need to check the wiring and the ignition switches on the left side burners.

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1 Answer

Hello Matt. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the spark module WPW10331686 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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Steve A for Model Number 66575002101

Below is the statement you responded back with. I have a final question. Steve, you're on the right track, but you're testing the module and gas valve incorrectly. Here's a little help " First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. You'll need a multi meter to test voltage and resistances. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and remove from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires. If all checks are proper(within 10%) repalce the oven bake burner and or igniter." I have measured the resistance, and from the middle terminal, to the top terminal, there was no resistance (read 1), from the middle terminal to the bottom terminal, there was 210 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when I select Bake cycle or Broil and read the top terminal (Red), there is no volts. There is volts on the bottom (blue) wire but it starts out in the 30's and then slowely decreases. Both Bake and Broil don't work, however while I was doing these tests, the broil did spark and start one time out of the 15 times I tested. Thank you, Steve

1 Answer

Steve, Based on your post resistance readings, you have a faulty valve solenoid on the gas distribution valve WPW10293048, You have to have the same resistance on both solenoids (210 ohms) with the wires off, or the circuit gets interupted and won't spark properly. The voltages to the valve are way out of line, Try this, Disconnect the wires and re test from red to orange on bake and orange to blue on broil, and see if both voltages drop back into thr range (8 - 18 VDC) If you recieve the same DC volts, you'll need to replace the spark module as well. If they drop back into the proper DCV range, then the faulty coil on the valve is the cause. Good Luck

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1 Answer

Steve, you're on the right track, but you're testing the module and gas valve incorrectly. Here's a little help " First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. You'll need a multi meter to test voltage and resistances. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and remove from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires. If all checks are proper(within 10%) repalce the oven bake burner and or igniter."

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1 Answer

Hello John. If the bake or broil is not sparking on either cycle, you will need to check and see if there is power going from the control to the spark module. If there is no power, replace the control. If there is power there, replace the spark module WPW10331686 on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Kenny. If the broil is sparking, but not the bake, and the igniter is good, you will need to replace the spark module WPW10331686 on the unit. Hope this helps.

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Ronald S. for Model Number Kitchen Aid KGSA906PSS00

I had a problem with my KGSA906PSS00 not warming up to more than 200 and the bake ignitor not lighting. I replaced the spark module as both DC outputs read low on the old module and now the broil will get up to 350 and when it's in the bake mode you can smell gas. I checked the gas valve resistances and the bake side reads good, but the broil side reads open. When I checked the DC outputs from the spark module it read good in broil mode but nothing in bake mode. Looking at the wiring I don't see any chafing that would suggest a short anywhere. Any help would be appreciated as I'm confused on this one.

1 Answer

Hello Ronald, I would recommend to replace the burner 8191123 and the safety valve WP9763716. This is not a guess, but a recommendation as a gas unit is more sensitive, (and dangerous), than an electric unit. Anytime you're dealing with an explosive gas it's a good idea to replace anything that could potentially become a hazard. I base this diagnosis on the fact that you could smell gas while the unit was operating. It's normal to smell gas immediately after start up but never during operation.

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