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Customer Questions and Answers for Replacement Icemaker by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12405033
Manufacturer Part Number: D7824706Q

The Replacement Icemaker is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool made refrigerators including Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, and many others. It is a component responsible for producing ice cubes or crushed ice, ensuring a constant supply of fresh ice for your convenience. Measuring approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide, this ice maker assembly is made of durable plastic and metal

Symptoms of needing a replacement icemaker include:

  • No ice production or significantly reduced ice output
  • Ice cubes appearing misshapen or clumped together
  •  Leaks or water buildup in the icemaker area
  • Strange noises or grinding sounds coming from the icemaker

Causes of a faulty icemaker can include normal wear and tear over time, water supply issues, clogging or blockages, or electrical malfunctions.

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore refrigerator models.

Please note: that this ice maker is a replacement only and not suitable for add-ons or brand-new installations. It does not include the harness or hardware. For wire harness(Plug)order WPD7813010. For cover order WPW10289690. For shut off bail arm order WP67004028.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Replacement Icemaker (Part Number: OEM12405033)

1 Answer

Hello Steve. Remove the screw from the bottom and then loosen the two screws at the top of the icemaker on the wall. Lift upward on the icemaker and remove it from the screws. Unplug the wires going to the icemaker and remove the icemaker D7824706Q from the unit.

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1 Answer

Ned, I believe the model should read SXD23VE (S instead of the # 6). The replacement icemaker is part number D7824706Q. Thanks!

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1 Answer

Hello Jon. Make sure the unit is level. You can use a small level inside the freezer and sit it on the icemaker. If the icemaker is level, and the water valve is new, and it still leaks, you will need to replace the icemaker 4317943 in the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Eva! The Whirlpool Icemaker kit part number 4317943 is a 120v icemaker and will not work in a 220v enviroment unless you have a 110-120v transformer. Unfortunately, we do not have any information regarding a 220v icemaker. I do apologize for the inconvenience!

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1 Answer

Hi. I want to help explain the installation since there are none. Turn the power off at the fridge controls then the breaker. Remove the ice bin. Put the bail arm down. Remove the 1/4"screw at the front /bottom of the ice maker mount tab. Now remove the top 2- 1/4" screw at the top of the ice maker. It is normal to feel the top screws since they are hard to see. Then unclasp the electrical connector at the back upper lt. corner of the back. Use a small screwdriver to release the side tab that hold the original electrical connector to the ice maker. Put this in the new ice maker tightly where it was on the origional one. Remove and replace the bail arm tightly into the back of the head on the new ice maker. Replace the new in the unit. Use a small torpedo level to insure the ice maker is level when tightened. Turn the ice maker bail arm on (lowered). When the unit reaches the freezer 0°, then it will call for water from the water valve. Ice Maker part # D7824706Q. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Tracy. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the water valve W10408179 is bad and is causing the unit to freeze. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Brenda, The control module W10190935 in the ice maker has failed. It isn't much cheaper than an ice maker assembly, but it is cheaper.

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1 Answer

Hi Judy. WATER VALVE / ICE MAKER TEST : If the ice maker is dispensing ice once filled in the bin, then it is getting power to the head of it. Remove the front cap of the ice maker (white cover pops off). At the L and N insert your meter leads to see if the 120 vac is present like suspected. If so then you can pull the unit out and identify the water valve at the machine lower rt. side from the back. Look for the solenoid which the ice maker fill line connects to. Shut off power and unbolt the water valve assy. w/ hoses attached. Noe then you have access to the solenoid connections. Unhook the wires and ohm the solenoid. It should have substantial resistance noted and then each terminal leg should not be shorted to ground. If so then the water valve is part # W10408179. Test from each terminal to the metal body bracket. Then reinstall the wires on the water valve. Insert the meter leads in the back of the wire connectors for a positive connection on each lead. Place your meter in the 300vac scale and face it forward so you can see it from the front of the unit. Then use a solid piece of 14gauge wire approx 4" long. Strip both ends back approx 3/8" and place one end in the T and H terminals and see if the large facing ice maker gear (blk or red) pointer usually at 5:00 will turn to the 7"00 position and then remove the jumper wire. The ice maker should move now on its own. If it has no reaction then the ice maker part # 4317943 is bad. When the dial and outer pointer reaches approx 3-4:00 it will send the 120 vac to the water valve as you only now have approx. 6-seconds to verify the voltage on the face of the meter. If the ice maker is good then you should hear the water valve groan and try to send water. There you have it all. You can remove the jumper and if the ice maker pointer is at rest at 4:00, then you can re-test for the voltage if you missed it b/4. Thank You.

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