Customer Questions and Answers for Ice Maker by Whirlpool

Hi Judy. WATER VALVE / ICE MAKER TEST : If the ice maker is dispensing ice once filled in the bin, then it is getting power to the head of it. Remove the front cap of the ice maker (white cover pops off). At the L and N insert your meter leads to see if the 120 vac is present like suspected. If so then you can pull the unit out and identify the water valve at the machine lower rt. side from the back. Look for the solenoid which the ice maker fill line connects to. Shut off power and unbolt the water valve assy. w/ hoses attached. Noe then you have access to the solenoid connections. Unhook the wires and ohm the solenoid. It should have substantial resistance noted and then each terminal leg should not be shorted to ground. If so then the water valve is part # W10408179. Test from each terminal to the metal body bracket. Then reinstall the wires on the water valve. Insert the meter leads in the back of the wire connectors for a positive connection on each lead. Place your meter in the 300vac scale and face it forward so you can see it from the front of the unit. Then use a solid piece of 14gauge wire approx 4" long. Strip both ends back approx 3/8" and place one end in the T and H terminals and see if the large facing ice maker gear (blk or red) pointer usually at 5:00 will turn to the 7"00 position and then remove the jumper wire. The ice maker should move now on its own. If it has no reaction then the ice maker part # 4317943 is bad. When the dial and outer pointer reaches approx 3-4:00 it will send the 120 vac to the water valve as you only now have approx. 6-seconds to verify the voltage on the face of the meter. If the ice maker is good then you should hear the water valve groan and try to send water. There you have it all. You can remove the jumper and if the ice maker pointer is at rest at 4:00, then you can re-test for the voltage if you missed it b/4. Thank You.

Hello Graham, The icemaker has no other shut-off other than the bale arm. You need to check a few things before replacing the icemaker. First, make sure the fill tube isn't frozen up. If it is you should replace the water inlet valves WP67005154 & WP67006531. If this is the case, you will also need to thaw the fill tube out with a hair dryer. If it isn't frozen, remove the front cover off of the icemaker, (it just snaps on), and look for the two tabs in the center of the geared wheel on the control module of the icemaker. If the tabs are against each other or one is missing, the icemaker is out of time and cannot cycle. If this is the case, the icemaker D7824706Q will require replacement. Let us know what you find and we can provide further assistance.

Dave, The bail arm, does move up and down when the icemaker cycles, but you should have ice in the bucket. Are you sure you installed the bail arm properly in the icemaker control head, and it's not bound up. Did you check or replace the wiring harness as well WPW10146386, if you have access to a multimeter, check each wire end to end for a "closed" circuit, then check each wire to the others for an "open" circuit. If all's OK, you'll need to reorder another icemaker assembly, the issue would be a circuit in the control head. Thanks and Good Luck

Hello Greg. Yes, that is enough voltage, and based on the information you provided, it sounds like the secondary valve WP2188785 is bad and will need to be replaced. Make sure the filter is good in the unit as well. Voltage is supplied to the valve from the dispenser. Hope this helps.

Hi Charles. Yes this ice maker is the replacement model # D7824706Q for your unit. Replacement Icemaker - By Amana. Fits most late model Amana refrigerators. Icemaker only, harness or hardware is NOT included. Replacement only, not suitable for add-ons or brand new installations. For wire harness(Plug)orderWPD7813010. For cover order WPW10289690. For shut off bail arm order WP67004028. Thank You.

Hello Ron. Remove the screw from the bottom of the icemaker 4317943 and pull out on the bottom and wiggle the icemaker and the clips will release from the unit. Hope this helps.

Hello Warren. You will need to test for power coming to the water valve WP67005154 when the icemaker cycles. If there is power, and the fill tube is not frozen, and you get no water, replace the water valve. Hope this helps.

Hello Howard. I would look for one of two issues. If the water inlet valve WP2315576 is going into failure and closing too slowly, this will overfill the ice maker. The other think isn't as common but happens never-the-less. The ice maker is man made so periodically a crack will appear in the ice mold. Every time I've seen this the crack was undetectable until the ice maker 4317943 was removed and filled with water at the sink. I hope this helps you find the problem and have a great day!

Hi Matt. According to your reply, trhat you have water in the ice maker is a sign that the voltage is there in the ice maker. If it will not eject, it means that either the thermostat is bad. The head assy. that switches and rotates the ejector is bad or the heater is not being energised to eject the ice. You can replace one part at a time but then you will still have the ice maker tray itself that is already contaminated with old minerals that dont allow quick ejection. So you might consider just replacing the complete ice maker assy.part # D7824706Q. Thank You.

Hi Matt. OK , first thing is to see if there are any cubes stuck in the ejector blades.. If so dislodge them and turn the bail arm back on. Is the unit and /or the ice maker level for proper fill ? Is the supply hose behind the unit kinked and holding water back ? Is the water valve at the house supply fully on ? Under the sink or at the back wall ? Make sure to use a bucket and make sure of full strong water pressure.Then look at the fill tube at the back of the freezer wall. Is it frozen over ? Try to use a screwdriver to check if you can not see anything in the fill tube. If so, then your water valve part # WPW10245167 needs replaced because it remains open and supplies the constant water filling the fill tube and allowing the back fill/ freezing issue.. Make sure the back of the fridge has completely sealed off and no outside air can get back into the unit. Is the wire harness completely plugged in ? Make sure it is plugged into the ice maker and the back wall. If the unit keeps filling the fill tube or water out of the front dispenser, then the water valve part # [].Use a volt/ohm meter to help in diagnostics's. remove the front cover and stick the meter leads in the front at the L and N inserts. Do you have the 120 vac to the ice maker ? . Use a jumper wire 3-4" long , 14 gauge stripped 5/8 " and insert into the T and H inserts. The front dial should start going around and when the large red stripe is at the 8:00 position, remove the jumper and it will keep on advancing. At the 3-4:00 position the ice maker will send 120 vac for approx6 seconds to the water valve and it will send water to the ice maker. You can set the meter on the water valve leads and see when the ice maker calls for water, that you get the 120 vac for 6- seconds. Thank You.