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Customer Questions and Answers for Replacement Icemaker by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12405033
Manufacturer Part Number: D7824706Q

The Replacement Icemaker is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool made refrigerators including Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, and many others. It is a component responsible for producing ice cubes or crushed ice, ensuring a constant supply of fresh ice for your convenience. Measuring approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide, this ice maker assembly is made of durable plastic and metal

Symptoms of needing a replacement icemaker include:

  • No ice production or significantly reduced ice output
  • Ice cubes appearing misshapen or clumped together
  •  Leaks or water buildup in the icemaker area
  • Strange noises or grinding sounds coming from the icemaker

Causes of a faulty icemaker can include normal wear and tear over time, water supply issues, clogging or blockages, or electrical malfunctions.

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore refrigerator models.

Please note: that this ice maker is a replacement only and not suitable for add-ons or brand-new installations. It does not include the harness or hardware. For wire harness(Plug)order WPD7813010. For cover order WPW10289690. For shut off bail arm order WP67004028.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Replacement Icemaker (Part Number: OEM12405033)

1 Answer

The Donald, You will want to cycle the icemaker and check to make sure that there is 120 vac to the water valve. If there is then check the fill tube to ensure it is not frozen.

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1 Answer

Jay, you would need to replace the ice maker if there is any crack causing water to leak from the cube tray.

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1 Answer

Bob, the icemaker operates by using a thermostat, which is not adjustable. While it is possible that the thermostat can cause the icemaker to short harvest, you may want to look for any possible air leaks as this can cause the ice to freeze together. Another cause of ice to freeze together is if the ice is not used frequently. Normally when ice is freezing together, there is an air leak or door being open for extended periods of time that is occurring at the same time.

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1 Answer

Brian, You will want to check the water fill to the icemaker. It sounds likely that the water valve is not allowing enough water to come into the unit.

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1 Answer

V, Check and make sure the metal " bail arm" is installed properly, on the new ice maker. Make sure the cubes aren't "piled up" in the area of the bail arm of the ice bin, causing the ice maker to shut itself off. If all is OK, replace the new ice maker.

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1 Answer

Colby, if the inlet valve is leaking and letting water trickle through and into the icemaker, I would replace the inlet valve, part number is W10408179

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Michael L for Model Number SBD21VPE

The supply valve to my refrigerator recently starting leaking through a weld in the plastic housing. I replaced it with part number WP12544001. After that the ice maker was not getting adequate water and the fil tube kept freezing up. I defrosted it and replaced the secondary valve, part number 12544101. The problem still persisted and I noticed that while the ice maker was getting 117VAC (tested between test points L & N on the icemaker control model), the ice maker side of each valve (brown coil) is only seeing 99 to 101VAC. I verified this at the connector to each valve and on the ice maker control module test points N & V. During the entire harvest/fill cycle, I see 117VAC between L & N. I replaced the ice maker with part number D7824706Q and I see the exact same behavior. Where do I go next? I have a hard time believing it's the thermal fuse in the harness as the icemaker motor seems to function properly and the heater is heating. I also verified that I get much better flow from the icemaker side of each valve when I connect the harness for the water dispenser, where I verified 119VAC is seen.

1 Answer

Michael, On the wiring diagram it appears they power the secondary valve at some point with a splice off of the primary valve.This has to be where you are losing some voltage possibly a damaged wire or connector.There is nothing else in between the power leaving the ice maker.The splice will be in the machine compartment where the compressor is.

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1 Answer

Bob, This issue would most likely be caused by a clogged drain for the defrost and not by the icemaker. You will want to install a drain tube kit and clean the drain trough below the evaporator coils behind the freezer wall to correct this issue.

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1 Answer

Mr. Lubtek, if you are getting water into the icemaker, then your solenoid valve is ok, and you will need to replace the icemaker, if no water and the inlet tube is froze up, you will need to replace the solenoid valve.

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