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Customer Questions and Answers for Gas Range Safety Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18042801
Manufacturer Part Number: WP98014893

Fix an oven that won't heat or ignite even when the igniter glows. This gas safety valve controls gas flow to your range burner. DIY repair in 20 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Gas Range Safety Valve (Part Number: OEM18042801)

1 Answer

Curtis, You will want to check the oven safety vavle for resistance. The resistance should be 216 ohms from common to bake or common to broil. If you do not have 216 ohms then the valve is faulty and will have to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello tommyboy. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the valve is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello John. It sounds like you actually are forcing the valve open when you tap it. You could have a weak igniter W10918546, when you turn the oven on it should glow a bright red almost white. If it's not drawing the proper amperage it will not satisfy the valve and open. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Hello David, This sounds like the start button is stuck on the clock WB27T10469. Either that or the bake relay is stuck. Either way, the same part is causing the same failure. The start button and the bake relay are on the clock.

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1 Answer

Hello Mike. You need to test for power coming to the igniter when the oven is turned on. If there is no power to the igniter, you will need to test and see if the control board on the unit is working properly and sending out the voltage. If not, you will need to replace the clock assembly in the oven. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Thomas, At this point, the regulator and safety valve are the least likely issues. You may have a weak ignitor W10918546, causing a delayed ignition or intermittent operation of the safety valve or an oven temp. sensor WPW10181986 that is out of the resistance range. You will need access to a multimeter TJMA-DMT3 in order to test the circuits and voltage for a proper diagnosis. Here's some meter usage information should you need it. [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html] Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Hello Jack. There's a good chance the valve WP98014893 needs changed over from LP to natural gas. Hopefully, you still have your old part. Gas parts are all sent out set up for natural gas so if you have LP you will have to swap the orifices out (be very careful to not get them mixed up). Hope this helps!

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Jack for Model Number SF303PEPQ1

The oven portion of my stove does not work, but the stove top does. The electric ignitor in the oven still glows red hot but it seems as though there is no gas getting to the stove. I replaced the gas valve w/ a new valve, the valve listed above and I'm getting gas now but it's still not working properly. With this particular oven, it takes a few seconds for the fire to actually light, but now it's taking longer. When it does light, the flames a much larger than they should be. I can see the flames coming up though the vents inside the oven. Flames well over 6". Could this be a bad replacement valve or is it something else?

1 Answer

Jack, When you replaced the gas valve, did you re configure it for LP gas ? Your description indicates the new valve is set for Nat gas, and your gas supply is LP gas. Your delayed ignition is probably due to a weak igniter W10918546 it has to draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps or produce 3.2 to 3.6 VAC on the wires at the gas valve to open the valve bi metal properly. Thanks

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