Customer Questions and Answers for Hi-Limit Thermostat by Whirlpool

Hello Nilo. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

John, You will want to check the thermostats and thermal fuses for continuity. If there is no continuity then they are bad. If they check ok then, there are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue.

Hello Dan. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.

Gerald, You will want to first check the door switch for continuity with the door closed. If no continuity then you would need to replace the switch. Then you want to check the thermal fuses to make sure that they are not blown. The thermal fuses should have continuity. If not then replace the fuse. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Tomas. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Greg, If the unit is not heating at all then you would want to test the thermal fuse. It sounds like the high limit may be bad but would not be able to determine which part could be the culprit without a full model number. To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

Hello J. M. You would need the dryer thermal cut off kit 279816 which will also include the hi limit thermostat.

Hello Rich, The thermal cut off is part number 279816 and the thermal fuse is part number WP3392519 You can test both of these by doing continuity check to make sure that they are bad. If they have continuity then they are good and if not they are bad.

Hello Jen. Test the element and it should read closed for continuity.

Hello Walter, This high limit thermostat that you received is for a different model and is not compatible with your unit. Hi limit thermostat for your unit WP3977767. We do not recommend using correct thermostat.