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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermostat Heater by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18030357
Manufacturer Part Number: WP61894

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermostat Heater (Part Number: OEM18030357)

John for Model Number 11066662501

My dryer burned the heating element twice so I changed it both times and also the second time I went ahead and changed ALL the thermostats. I still do not know if it is working correctly or not. When I am drying clothes it does not kick the element off until it gets to about 20-25 minutes left in the cycle, then it cycles the thermostat on and off like it should. When I do not have any clothes in it, I tried it and it cycled correctly after about only two minutes of running. Is this how it is supposed to be? It also cycles it off if I test it with the door open to make sure the element is working and I am getting heat.

1 Answer

Hello John, You should check the exhaust duct for crimps, clogs, or excessive length with too many turns. This can cause the issue and since flexible ducting that is not recommended by any of the appliance manufacturers is becoming more and more popular, it is common to fill with condensate water and also common to crimp behind the unit when it is pushed into position.

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1 Answer

Hugh, The first thing that you will want to check is the venting to make sure that the vent is not obstructed. Also check the blower to make sure that there is nothing caught in the blower wheel which would cause this issue as well. The only other thing that could be checked is the thermostats to make sure that they are opening and closing at recommended temps.

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1 Answer

BS True, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.

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John for Model Number 110.87670100 Sears Kenmore Gas Dryer

I did a continuity test on the thermostats and have no continuity on the part number 61894. However, the dryer problem I have is an inconsistency in lighting the gas off. The heating element is fine but it always turns off before the gas comes thru the tube. In fact, I can consistently light off the gas with a long nose butane lighter! Occasionally, after warming up, the dryer will light off as it cycles, but more often it will only light off with my handy butane lighter. Is the 61;894 thermostat the problem?

1 Answer

Hello John. It sounds like the igniter is weak or the gas coils are bad. You will need to check both.

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1 Answer

Gerry, This thermostat is for the purpose of the automatic cycle. It heats the thermostat to have it shut off sooner for like the cooler temp settings. If you are getting 73K ohms from this thermostat then it is faulty. The resistance should be between 3 and 4K ohms.

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1 Answer

Hello Captain B. It sounds like the motor is overheating and will need to be replaced in the unit.

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