Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Timer by Whirlpool

Hello Dave,

If you have tried the unit without the duct connected, the issue will be one of three things. An open timer motor, a bad centrifugal switch in the motor, or timer switch "0" not making electrical contact. The timer motor will show a resistance, but should not read open or zero resistance. The centrifugal switch will read open unless the centrifugal weight is pushed against the spring tension to simulate the motor spinning the weights out. The timer contact "0" can be checked by testing from the timer motor wire to the orange wire or the white wire with a black trace, depending on the position of the timer knob. This connection, if good, will show zero resistance when the contacts close. This can be determined by studying the wiring diagram. The wiring diagram should be either in the control panel or it is sometimes glued to the rear of the unit.

Joe, No, it's not likely you need a timer WP8299764 if the timer operates properly on one cycle,but not on another there's a very high chance, you have heat issue, usually a clogged or restricted exhaust vent pipe or vent hood, not a timer issue. On the "auto dry" cycles, the dryer has to reach the proper temperature(155 dgrs.) in order to complete the circuit to the timer motor so the timer can advance. If the temperature isn't correct, the timer won't operate properly.

Hello Harold. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the timer WP8299764 is bad and will need to be replaced.

Hello DC. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the timer WP8299764 is bad and will need to be replaced.

Hello Brenda. You will need to test the door switch WP3406105 and the dryer thermal fuse WP3392519. The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing and the door switch is located on the front panel. The door switch should read closed for continuity with the door closed and the thermal fuse should read closed for continuity as well. If either on of these are bad, it will prevent the dryer from working. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Roger. It sounds like the coils 279834 are bad on the unit. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter MA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Chris,

Sounds like a coil on the safety valve has failed. The kit containing both coils 279834 should cure the issue.

Hello Rena. You will need to test the thermal fuses W11050897, flame sensor WP338906, igniter 279311 and the coils 279834. The thermal fuses, flame sensor and igniter should read closed for continuity. If the dryer is not heating properly, it can cause the timer motor not to receive power. Hope this helps.