Samsung DG44-01002A Top Burner Control For Range, Infinite Switch OEM Part

After removing the top rear access panel, I took as-built photographs of the two components to be replaced showing all wires, connectors and screws! The Energy Regulator for the front left burner was replaced first, noting the orientation before pulling off the knob, and removing the retaining screws. I used long nose pliers to gently remove one lead at a time and reconnect to the new regulator. Checked orientation against the photo, reinstalled regulator and knob. Main PCB Assembly was more challenging. The assembly snaps into a plastic holder / frame that is held in place by 3 or 4 corner screws and two screws on the controller board transformer. After removing the screws, the frame and PCB Assembly can be removed giving access for removal of the connectors. The connectors have various "latches" that need to be released to remove the connectors without damage. Some tenacity is needed here, especially for the removal and re-installation of the flex tape cable on the left side of the PCB Assembly. The flex cable is released by pulling up on the "collar" of the black plastic latch to release the flat cable. For reassembly, the "collar" must be pulled up to allow the flex tape cable to be fully inserted in the connector slot, after which the "collar" is pressed down to re-establish connector contacts. The flex tape cable is very delicate and must be handled carefully to avoid damage. If it is not inserted correctly, the membrane keypad on the stove will not work. After all connectors / cables have been removed, release the PCB Assembly from the holder / frame, and install the new PCB into the holder / frame. Reinstall the PCB Assembly and the holder / frame and replace the corner screws and the two screws on the controller board transformer. Reconnect all cables, using the photographs as needed and paying careful attention to the flex cable as previously mentioned. Replace top rear access panel.

I replaced the power regulator on he affected burner. Took ten minutes - killed the power removed 5 screws on the back cover, swapped wires to the new regulator block, unscrewed the old block screwed in the new in and replaced the back cover. Only needed a Phillips screw driver. Took longer to clean the dust bunnies behind the range, YUCK! Remember the regulator for the single ring and the double ring burners are different, make sure you get the right one.

Unplug the range. Take the back top panel off (5 screws on my range, top and bottom left, top and bottom right and one top center). Then remove the knob (just pull slowly to remove the knob). Finally 2 screws to remove the switch from the panel. Use a set of needle nose pliers to help get the spade connectors off (I took them off and connected them to the new switch one at a time so I didn't mess up where anything went). 2 screws in the front panel to remount the switch. Press the knob back on. 5 screws in the back to put the panel back on. Plug it back in and done. Fixed the problem I was having with the burner not cycling.

Replaced front burner switch module.

It was easy to find the burnt up parts and I could see what caused the problem of jarring an indicator loose and it struck a side wall (ground) and shorted out and burned the switch and indicator out. I went onto this website and the schematics were blown up and easy to find on the drawing. Took a pic of all the wires connected to the switch prior to removing them and in 15 minutes it was fixed. Truly thought that boards were burned up, facing an estimated $250 estimated repair or possibly a new range. I fixed it myself for $50 and bought a couple extra indicator lights just in case and the parts were extremely reasonable.