Ade8060 Parts

A high-limit thermostat that stops the dryer's heating circuit if internal temperatures get too high, helping prevent overheating and protecting heating components. Replaces a failed high-limit thermostat to restore overheat protection. What it does

• Opens the heating circuit when dryer temperature exceeds the thermostat set point to prevent overheating.
• Commonly related symptoms: dryer runs but produces little or no heat, dryer gets unusually hot, or the thermal cutoff repeatedly fails.
• Works as part of the dryer's temperature-safety system to protect heating elements, fuses, and internal wiring.

• One high-limit thermostat

• Disconnect power before accessing the dryer and work only after panels are cool.
• Take a photo or label wires before removal to ensure correct reconnection.
• Test the thermostat for continuity with a multimeter to confirm failure before replacing.
• If other safety devices (thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, element) show symptoms, inspect and test those components too.

This terminal block assembly connects your dryer's power cord to the internal wiring, providing a secure, heat-resistant junction. Replacing a damaged block restores a reliable electrical connection and helps prevent intermittent power, overheating, or burnt terminals.

• Provides an insulated junction point between incoming power and the appliance's internal wiring
• Secures cord conductors with screw terminals to maintain a tight, low-resistance connection
• Helps resolve issues like the dryer not powering on, intermittent shutdowns, or a burning smell near the cord cover
• Replaces cracked, melted, or stripped terminals to restore a safe power path

• Disconnect power at the breaker before servicing
• Photograph/label wire positions and move one wire at a time to the new block
• Tighten terminal screws firmly; recheck connections after initial operation
• Inspect/replace any heat-damaged cord lugs, wiring, or strain relief before reassembly

This push-button switch mounts in the control panel and sends an electrical signal to start or enable a function. Replacing a worn switch restores consistent response when the button is pressed.

• Provides momentary contact to the control or timer when pressed
• Common symptoms: unit won't start, must press repeatedly, or no tactile "click"/return
• Visible issues can include heat discoloration, broken actuator, or loose terminals

• Disconnect power to the appliance; shut off gas supply to dryers
• Access the control panel; release retaining tabs or nut and remove the old switch
• Note wire positions or take a photo; transfer wires to the new switch one at a time
• Seat and secure the switch, reassemble, restore power, and test operation

This replacement moisture sensor bar mounts inside the drum and helps the dryer detect when laundry is dry. A worn or damaged bar can cause sensor-dry cycles to end too soon or run too long.

• Senses moisture on fabrics and signals the control to advance or extend auto-dry cycles
• Helps stop the cycle when clothes reach the selected dryness level
• Symptoms can include auto-dry cycles ending early, extended run times, or inconsistent dryness
• Build-up on the bars can also affect sensing performance

• Disconnect power before servicing; shut off gas supply for gas dryers
• Access the sensor at the front bulkhead/lint housing; move wire leads to the new bar and secure with existing hardware
• Clean any residue from both sensor bars to improve accuracy
• Reassemble and test with a small damp load on a sensor cycle

This element repair kit restores a safe, solid electrical connection to an electric range/cooktop surface burner, helping the element heat consistently and reducing arcing after the original connector has overheated or loosened.

• Repairs a damaged or heat-weakened surface element connection
• Helps resolve a burner that won't heat or heats intermittently
• Addresses visible scorching, melting, or arcing at the element plug-in
• Supports a snug, reliable fit for the element prongs

• Disconnect power at the breaker or unplug before servicing; allow the cooking surface to cool completely
• Match connector orientation and move one wire at a time to avoid miswiring
• Inspect wire insulation and element terminals; replace any parts with burnt, pitted, or loose contacts
• Ensure the element seats firmly after repair and verify proper operation before regular use

This Outer Tub Gasket seals the outer tub assembly in your washer to keep wash water contained through every cycle. Replacing a flattened, cracked, or leaking gasket helps stop water on the floor and protects internal parts.

• Creates a watertight seal between outer tub components
• Helps prevent leaks during fill, wash, and spin
• Common symptoms: water under the washer; moisture at the tub seam; visible cracks or compression set on the gasket
• Restores proper sealing after service or disassembly

• Disconnect power and water supplies; move the washer for safe access
• Access the outer-tub seam per your model's service procedure; note gasket orientation
• Remove the old gasket and clean mating surfaces; install the new gasket evenly without twists or gaps
• Reassemble and run a brief test cycle to check for leaks

Replace a damaged collector duct to restore proper ventilation airflow. This kit channels air from the appliance's intake to the exhaust path, helping reduce leaks, noise, and recirculation for consistent capture performance.

• Directs airflow from the intake/collector to the exhaust duct path
• Helps maintain proper airflow and capture efficiency
• Provides a sealed transition to minimize air leaks and recirculation
• Common symptoms: poor vent suction, smoke/steam lingering, rattling vibrations, visible damage or gaps

• Disconnect power at the breaker; shut off gas before servicing
• Wear cut-resistant gloves—sheet-metal edges can be sharp
• Note airflow orientation and gasket locations; dry-fit before fastening
• Seal joints with UL-listed foil HVAC tape; do not use cloth duct tape

This rubber rear drum seal fits the dryer drum opening and helps keep the drum centered while reducing air leaks and preventing lint and fabric from getting between the drum and bulkhead for quieter, more efficient drying. What it does:

• Seals the gap between the dryer drum and bulkhead to maintain proper airflow.
• Cushions the drum edge to prevent metal-on-metal contact and reduce noise.
• Worn or torn seals can cause rubbing, squeaking, banging, excess vibration, or longer dry times.
• Visible gaps, shredded rubber, or lint buildup at the drum edge are common signs the seal needs replacement.

• Disconnect electrical power (and shut off gas supply for gas dryers) before starting any repair.
• Replacement commonly requires partial or full drum removal; inspect the drum and bulkhead for additional wear while accessible.
• Wear gloves and eye protection; watch for sharp edges and pinch points during reassembly.

Size: 10-32 inch.

This 120V light housing assembly secures and protects the interior light in your machine, restoring dependable illumination inside the cabinet. It positions the bulb and socket correctly so you can clearly see the drum/compartment when the door opens.

• Mounts and insulates the interior light socket within the cabinet
• Positions the bulb for proper interior illumination
• Helps resolve issues from a cracked, heat-damaged, or loose housing
• Typical symptoms: interior light won't turn on, flickers intermittently, or only works when the door is moved
• Designed for 120V systems

• Disconnect power before servicing to avoid electrical shock
• Access the light area per your model's service information; remove panels as needed
• Note wire locations; make secure connections to the new housing
• Restore power and test the interior light before final reassembly

This 4-position fabric selector switch is the control behind the knob that sets your washer's fabric setting. Replacing a worn switch restores crisp detents and reliable selection so the machine follows the wash action you choose.

• Controls the washer's fabric setting with four selectable positions
• Directs electrical contacts to deliver the chosen wash action or speed
• Works with the timer/control to tailor cycle aggressiveness for different fabrics
• Symptoms of failure: settings don't change, only one position responds, wrong wash action, or the knob feels loose and won't detent

• Disconnect power before servicing; control panel edges can be sharp
• Remove the knob, then the retaining nut or clip to free the switch from the panel
• Photograph and label wires; transfer them one at a time to matching terminals on the new switch
• Align the shaft/indexing tabs, secure the switch, and test each position before reassembly

This retaining ring secures a component on a shaft or within a groove so it stays aligned during operation. Replacing a bent, rusted, or missing ring helps stop wobble, noise, and parts working loose.

• Locks into a groove to keep gears, pulleys, wheels, or spacers from sliding off a shaft
• Helps maintain proper spacing and alignment of moving parts
• Common signs of failure: wobbling parts, scraping/rubbing noises, or components that work loose
• Visual clues: deformation, corrosion, or loss of spring tension

• Disconnect power and any utilities to the appliance before service
• Wear eye protection—retaining rings can spring free under tension
• Note the order/orientation of any washers or spacers before removal
• Use appropriate snap-ring or needle-nose pliers and ensure the ring seats fully in its groove

120v/60hz

This moisture sensor base positions and secures the washer's moisture sensing contacts so the control can detect fabric dampness and finish cycles correctly. Restores reliable wetness detection when the original base is damaged or worn. What it does:

• Holds the moisture-sensing probes/contacts in the correct location for accurate wetness readings.
• Passes moisture detection signals to the control so automatic cycles advance and end properly.
• Helps address symptoms like inconsistent dryness, cycles that stop too soon or run too long, or error codes related to moisture sensing.
• Use when the mounting base is cracked, corroded, or connector fit is loose.

• Disconnect power to the appliance before starting any repair to avoid shock or injury.
• Access typically requires removing the washer cabinet or access panels; keep fasteners and connectors organized.
• Handle sensor contacts carefully to avoid bending or contaminating the probe surfaces; ensure connectors are fully seated.

Seal assembly replaces the washer's front tub seal to prevent water from leaking around the cylinder, helping stop puddles under the machine and protecting internal components from water exposure. What it does:

• Forms a watertight seal between the front of the tub/cylinder and the outer housing.
• Helps stop leaks that occur during fill, wash, or spin cycles; replacement commonly resolves visible water at the front/base of the washer.
• Use when the seal shows cracks, tears, hardening, or other visible damage.
• Replacement restores proper sealing to help protect bearings and electronics from water intrusion.

• Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before servicing.
• Replacement typically requires front access and partial disassembly of the tub/cabinet; follow the manufacturer service manual and use appropriate tools.
• Clean and inspect the mating surfaces and the shaft for wear or contamination before installing the new seal.
• If you find bearing noise, oil residue, or extensive corrosion, consider replacing affected components.

Dryers, washers, and washer dryer combos are made with an idler pulley shaft. It works in combination with the rest of the equipment in multiple ways. It switches the direction in which the output shaft is rotating. The idler pulley shaft also works to change gears and maintain the space between shafts. With time, because of excessive force, or as a result of misuse, the idler pulley shaft can wear out, break, or get damaged otherwise. When the part isn't working correctly, it has to be replaced to continue using the machine.The primary indication that there is something wrong with the idler pulley shaft is a machine that's producing excessive noises. Replacement of the idler pulley shaft is a straightforward process. It can be done in a few minutes with a nut driver and screwdrivers. Unplug the appliance before starting the disassembly.This idler pulley shaft is a genuine OEM replacement part. It is sold as an individual unit. It is made of durable metal materials. The idler pulley shaft is sourced from the manufacturer. It can be installed in various machines made by Speed Queen, Amana, and Magic Chef.