Defrost Element Parts

First replaced defrost timer. Iced up again after 2 weeks. Then replace the defrost heater. So far so good. Read more

It only takes a screwdriver for this repair. Remove the two screws holding the old element, pull it out of the housing, making sure the wires attached to the element do not fall back into the housing when you unclip them. Once you reattach the wires, simply replace the two screws and the job is done. I could not reuse the old screws though since the old ones did not hold the tight (unit is 20 years old and they were simply stripped). I simply increased the thickness of the screws and the new... Read more

Our dryer suddenly began overheating while drying. Outside of the dryer cabinet was uncomfortably warm to the touch, dryer drum was hot, charred smelling laundry. Based on what I read it was likely one of two things - a failed cycling thermostat or a shorted heating element. First I cleaned the vent hose and ducting to ensure good airflow, which I had. I opened the circuit breaker first, then took off the door and front cover. I started with a thorough cleaning of the dryer with a vaccuum... Read more

I replaced the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer. That corrected the problem. Be careful when ordering your parts. I put in my model# and they gave me a defrost timer that was incorrect. I had to return at my cost and order the correct one. Don't assume because you put in your model# that the part is correct. On each part there is a box to put in your model# to check to see if it fits your model. Don't assume that because you put your model# in before that it fits. If not sure, call them... Read more

Replaced heating element, Read more

I replaced the temperature sensor, the thermo fuse, and the heating element that thaws the evaporator on a cycle to keep the evaporator from freezing up. The most time consuming part of the repair was waiting for the fridge to thaw out so that I could remove the cover. I disconnected the fridge the night before and placed a fan on low with the doors open so that it was thawed out when I awoke. It was easy to remove the evaporator cover once I removed all of the shelves. I took pics as i was... Read more

• Freezer not defrosting
• Fridge too warm

Defrost circuit was broken, defrost thermostat failed and allowed the frost to build up and clog the ports . Replaced defrost thermostat and fixed the circuit.....the heating element worked again as the defrost thermostat was broken in the open position, not allowing the heating element to operate. Read more

After removing the back cover in the freezer compartment with a Phillips screwdriver, I saw the evaporator coils completely iced up, which blocked all airflow. A hair dryer was used to completely melt the ice, which took about 15 minutes and filled up the drain pan almost to the top. A quick ohms check with a VOM showed the defrost heater elements were burned out. The wires for these elements are routed along the right side of the coils behind the cover lip, so after cutting a tie-wrap I... Read more

Ordering the right part is the key. This is the element with 3 wire connectors NOT the usual kind with 2 prongs that slide in. Thank goodness this company carries these elements for old GE built-in stoves. I'm not super handy but replaced two in about 40 min. Make sure you save the old ceramic clamps. The three prongs of the element with connected wires need to fit completely in the ceramic grooves so the two sides can be clamped together. The new element comes with everything you need but... Read more

• Element will not heat

Replace burner and receptacle. The product arrived promptly after order and the receptacle came in a factory Whirlpool bag, indicating it was a genuine Whirlpool part. The burner did not have such identification, but works very good. I've placed 3 orders with these folks for various broken appliances, and each one has worked as advertised and performs like new. Read more

It was an easy swap with the replacement part Read more

• Element will not heat

Unplug range. Open oven door to gain access to the cook top lock-down screws, located under the front edge of the cook top. Tip the cook top up and carefully remove it by pulling forward. Set aside in a safe place. Remove old, burned-out, element by removing the single lock tab, located on one of the three mounting posts, then lift up. Leave the wiring attached. Flip the element over and remove the three mounting tabs, making note of their numbered locations. Transfer the mounting tabs to... Read more

Put in new ones. No repair necessary. Read more

Easy fix. Both elements replaced while I was at it, so all new. Figured if one went the other was going to follow. CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF. Removed the back metal panel with my nut driver for the hex head screws. Note where the panel may slip under tabs for support. Remove slip on electrical connections on upper and lower elements. May need a pliers. (I did not want to just pull the element and the wires into the oven with the element and remove them there, like a technician would do. After 15... Read more

I got a new part and replaced it. Read more

• Freezer not defrosting

After we moved into our new home, we realized that the freezer was very cold and the fins were frosting over, and the refrigerator wasn't cold. We had to take it apart and manually defrost it about once every 8 to 10 days. After research online, we found Appliance Parts Pros videos, which clearly explained how to fix it ourselves, a savings of at least $1,000 or more, since a new one of this size would have been in the arena of $1,200 to $2000. We ordered the three most likely parts to be bad,... Read more