Water Flow Sensor Parts

• Fridge too warm

The defrost heater element looked good and had continuity. The defrost thermostats checked good, so that just left the Defrost Module as the likely suspect. I installed a new defrost control module and thermostats. The thermostats were inexpensive and the old ones could have been intermittent, The only "tricky" part was finding out how to get to the back screw that holds the main control panel. Discovered that the return air duct surrounding the control panel needed to come off. It helps... Read more

Used screwdriver to push in plastic tabs holding old unit to the top of the refrigerator box Read more

Replaced defrost sensor in freezer compartment, if you are handy this is a do it yourself job. The cover in the freezer section just pops out not tools needed. You will need a few small zip ties and some cutters to remove the old zip ties. Take a picture were the old sensor was before removing and reinstall in the same place. I used a meter to check continuity of the defrost element and found the element to be ok. I was quoted $85 to have someone come to the house just to check the unit and... Read more

With your helpful video we replaced the water filter housing. That repair fixed problem. Read more

Replaced sump, wash pump, drain pump, diverter motor, and thermostat. Read more

After looking online and discovering that others who had used a knockoff brand filter to "save money" had the same problem, I concluded the only solution was to replace the filter housing. Found the one I needed on AppliancePartsPros.com. Most important to me was the video explaining how to replace the filter housing - it made the task a snap to complete. The price was also competitive with other sources. Shipping was half that charged by Samsung. Not only was it cheaper, but it was also super... Read more

It was a learning experience. First I turned off the power! I removed the lower kick plate, disconnected the drain hose and electrical connectors. Then removed the discharge pump and heat sensor then loosened the 4 hold down arms/clamps. Then I opened the door and pulled the base up from the inside. Now to remove and replace the Pump Motor. Then reverse the process. If I were to do again, I'd pull the dishwasher out and lay it on its back. Read more

• Oven is too hot
• Little to no heat when baking

I was able to find the model number on the lower right hand side of the range/oven, a GE True Temp. I Googled it to find parts, and thought I had found the correct sensor, but was very pleased that the ApplianceParts sire suggested I check compatability again before the order. I would have ordered the wrong sensor kit other wise. I DID get the correct one order. It arrived on time. The tricky part was get the old sensor out without having to pull the oven/range combo out form the wall over... Read more

Replaced thermistor Read more

• Fridge too warm
• Fridge runs too long
• Freezer not defrosting
• Freezer section too warm

My GSS20IETD BB side-by-side refrigerator had been having the ice form into a single mass over a period of a week after cleaning it out. It actually kept breaking my ice maker auger and pushing the slide-in tray or shelf over the ice maker up breaking it also. Frost would form all over food after about a couple of weeks. The ice auger motor would freeze up and stop turning. The coils did not have frost on them when I was able to view them. I replaced the thermistors in the freezer, defrost the... Read more

I had to remove the dishwasher about 6 inches then remove the door springs and remove the door. Next was to open the cover to reach the circuit board and remove it. The new board was put in and attached the plug. and put the door back together and reinstall the door and springs. Turned the power to check that the lights came on. After confirming I again had power, I turned the breaker off and reinstalled the dishwasher in the cabinet and restored power. Lastly I ran the machine to ensure that... Read more

Ordered replacement part, snapped into place, easy repair. Read more

Replaced drain line Read more

The F9 error code is supposed to indicate that the door lock mechanism has failed. My oven would give the F9 code and turn off during normal baking at 400 F after about 30-40 minutes. It turns out that GE must have programmed the error codes incorrectly in my model, because the real problem was that my control board cooling fan was no longer functional, and one of the two thermal switches was shutting off the unit when the control board area got too hot. AppliancePartsPros.com is one of the... Read more

My first attempt was to replace the main board and then the thermistor, should have done this the other way around, turned out it was the thermistor, a pretty cheap part, dryer works great now. Repair requires removing the drum but overall not too difficult or time consuming. Read more

After doing some research the problem appeared to be the door safety switches. I ordered 3 new ones to replace all the original ones. Some minor disassembly of the microwave front was required to reach the fuse and switches. To reach the switches the control panel wires needed to be unplugged and the panel removed. After doing that replacing the switches was pretty strait forward. As of this comment the microwave has worked for 5 days without blowing the fuse so far. This has probably fixed the... Read more