Parts for Maytag MBF2562HEW: 07 - Ice Maker Parts

This replacement screw secures panels, brackets, and components inside appliances. Replacing a missing or stripped fastener restores a snug, rattle-free fit using the correct #8-18 thread and 5/8-inch length.

• Fastens covers, trims, brackets, and internal parts to the cabinet/frame
• Used wherever a #8-18 x 5/8 screw is specified
• Replace if the original is missing, corroded, stripped, or will not tighten
• Symptoms: loose or rattling panels, gaps, or hardware that backs out

• Disconnect power; shut off gas/water before servicing
• Match thread and length; start by hand to avoid cross-threading
• Use the correct driver bit and tighten snugly—do not overtighten
• Inspect and replace damaged clips or tabs before securing

This ice maker assembly produces and dispenses ice cubes in your refrigerator's freezer compartment. It automatically fills with water, freezes it into cubes, and releases them into the ice bin. Replace this part when your refrigerator stops making ice, produces misshapen cubes, or makes unusual noises during the ice-making cycle.

Cracked or missing ice maker cover exposing internal components? This protective cover shields the ice maker assembly. Simple DIY install in minutes.

Ice cubes stuck in tray and won't eject? This ejector arm pushes ice from the mold into the bin. Simple snap-in install restores ice production.

Ice stripper removes ice cubes from the ice maker mold so the dispenser or storage bin fills properly. Replacing a worn or broken stripper helps the ice maker eject cubes cleanly and reduces ice jams or stuck cubes. What it does:

• Pushes or guides harvested cubes out of the ice mold into the bin during the ice maker's harvest cycle.
• Prevents cubes from sticking in the mold; a damaged stripper can cause incomplete ejection or leftover ice in the mold.
• Works with the ice maker's ejector mechanism to maintain consistent cube release and storage.
• A faulty or broken stripper may lead to noisy operation, partial fills, or visible ice build-up in the mold.

• Disconnect power to the appliance before starting any repair to avoid electrical shock.
• Remove the ice maker or access panel per the manufacturer's instructions to reach the stripper; keep small parts and screws organized.
• Inspect the ice mold and surrounding components for damage or ice build-up; clear ice before installing the new stripper.
• After installation, restore power and run a test harvest cycle to ensure proper cube ejection.

Ice maker leaking or shutoff arm broken? This fill cup and bearing assembly directs water into the mold and supports the arm. 15-minute DIY fix.

Ice maker won't stop making ice or overflows? The shut-off arm signals when the bin is full. Simple DIY fix—just press both ends into place.

Ice maker not working or won't make ice? Failed wiring harness disrupts power to the ice maker. DIY-friendly repair, installs in minutes with basic tools.

Replacement icemaker fill tube that directs water from the valve to the ice tray. Replace if cracked, leaking, or causing water to freeze in the freezer.

Ice maker shifting or loose? This mounting bracket secures your ice maker assembly in place to restore stable positioning and reliable ice production.

Screw: 8-16 x 3/8 inch.

This thermostat retainer clip secures the defrost thermostat to the evaporator tubing in your refrigerator or freezer, maintaining firm contact for accurate temperature sensing and dependable defrost operation.

• Holds the thermostat firmly against the evaporator line for proper temperature feedback
• Helps prevent a loose or dangling thermostat that contribute to frost buildup and poor defrost performance
• Restores correct mounting when the original clip is cracked, bent, or missing
• Common signs include a broken clip or a thermostat not attached to the coil

• Disconnect power to the appliance before servicing; wear cut-resistant gloves
• Access the evaporator compartment; remove accumulated frost/ice as needed without prying on coil fins
• Position the thermostat body flat against the tubing and snap the retainer over it, avoiding pinched wires or damaged fins
• Confirm a secure fit and proper wire routing before reassembling and restoring power

Ice not dispensing or spilling in freezer? A cracked or warped ice bucket causes jams and mess. This bin stores ice and positions it for dispensing.

Ice maker not making ice or water dispenser not working? This water inlet valve controls flow to both systems. DIY repair takes about 10 minutes.

Internal tubing that carries water from the supply valve to various refrigerator components like ice makers and dispensers. Replace if you notice water leaks inside the refrigerator or reduced water flow to dispensers.

This clamp secures flexible hoses to fittings to maintain a tight seal and prevent leaks. Use it to replace a worn or loose clamp to stop water or air seepage and restore proper hose attachment. What it does:

• Holds a washer, dryer, or appliance hose firmly to a barb or fitting to prevent slipping
• Helps maintain a watertight or airtight connection to reduce leaks and drips
• Replaces corroded, cracked, or stretched clamps that no longer grip reliably
• Supports normal appliance operation by keeping fluid/air flow contained

• One clamp

• Inspect the hose and fitting; replace the hose if damaged before installing the clamp
• Position clamp over the hose barb and tighten evenly; avoid over-tightening that can cut the hose
• Disconnect power and water supply before servicing any appliance components

Fix water leaks in your refrigerator's ice maker or water line. This tube insert reinforces plastic tubing for leak-resistant compression fittings.

Speed clip slides over panel edges to create captive threads for mounting screws. Replace worn, missing, or broken clips to restore secure attachment.

This drive coupling connects the washer motor to the transmission, transferring power to spin and agitate the tub. Replacing a worn coupling restores proper drivetrain engagement and reduces slipping, grinding, or loss of agitation. What it does:

• Transfers rotational force from the motor to the transmission so the washer can agitate and spin.
• Failsafe for worn motor-to-gearcase connection; a broken coupling commonly causes no-agitate or no-spin symptoms.
• Can produce burning smell, loud grinding, or slipping when deteriorated.
• Helps prevent further damage to the motor or transmission by isolating shock loads.

• Disconnect power and water before starting any repair.
• Basic disassembly of the washer cabinet and access to the motor/transmission area is required.
• Verify correct alignment of tabs/slots during installation to ensure proper engagement.