How to Troubleshoot & Replace Lg AP5681103 / EBR76262102 Washer Main Control Board

OE code started and the washer eventually stopped draining over time. Checked the hose and pump were clear of debris. Wired pump to wall and confirmed it worked. Determined it was a bad board. To replace the board, unscrew the 2 front screws and slide the panel to the left and lift it off. It's pretty easy to replace from there. 

Verified pump was clear and clean, found no debris. Made jumper harness from old extension cord, pump worked properly. Verified all connections to pump, no problem found. Suspected main board, verified after 49 minutes with AC volt meter installed into pump connector, when pump failed, volt meter read OL. Restarted cycle and occurred again. Removed control panel with Phillips screwdriver, swapped main board. I suggest setting display panel on soft surface as I scratched my display when I turned it over to replace main board. Re assembled, plugged into wall outlet, ran 2 separate rinse and spin cycles, fixed! 

I took the following steps to fix error code "OE" on LG top load washing machine LG WT1101CS: 1) took off rear panel, removed the drain pump and disassembled drain pump (~20 minutes) 2) verified there was no debris in the drain pump impeller 3) verified there was no debris in all 3 drain hoses (tub to pump, pump to the back of the unit, back of the unit to the wall) 4) verified drain pump was working properly (~10 minutes) - hooked it up to 120V power supply and it ran fine 5) used a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) to check the voltage from the cables that plug into the drain pump (~10 minutes) - did this by running a spin only cycle which kicks on the drain pump circuit immediately - I found that the cable was only providing about 60V instead of the 120V that the pump needs. This means that a capacitor on the front control board was bad. Since the control board is potted, you can't just replace the capacitor, you have to replace the entire board. 6) Bought a new control board (EBR75857902 [AP5681074]), then disassembled the front of the unit to expose the control board (~5-minute job). Swapped out the control board, plugged all the cables back in, and everything works as it should again. 

After reading about possible causes, I ordered and replaced the drain pump. The problem persisted and the washer started to hang up on the rinse cycle without giving me any error codes. At this point researched a little more and determined the main control board appeared the be the problem. I ordered the part from your company, and it promptly arrived the next day. I replaced the board and the washer is working great again. I received an estimate to fix it from a repair company and it would have cost me between $400 - $500 dollars to repair. Doing it myself saved me quite a bit of money! 

I googled the issue, there were a lot of folks who had the same issue with their LG washer. The hardest thing was trying to figure out the part number that needed to be ordered. There was a great You Tube where a guy had the same problem and he said that a sticker with the part number was on the old board. Once we had that, we placed the order with AppliancePartsPros.com. The Thanksgiving holiday did delay receipt of the new board but once it was received, my husband had the new board in and the washer back working in less than 15 minutes. 

Well I'm not a washer and dryer repair technician but I went online and I found similar problems with the washer model I own. went to YouTube to find out how to test the drain pump. I used a $5 ohmmeter and found 11 ohms of resistance on the drain pump which I considered normal. So taking that into consideration I found online a few people replace the circuitboard which fix the problem in my case as well . 

1a. Internet research in common problems (apparently small underwear clogs are common.) 1b. Manually removed water - removed drain pump - inspected lines - no problem found. 2. Tested drain pump by applying external 115V to electrical connector - test OK. (I realized I should have done this first.) 3a. Watched Youtube videos on removing control panel (unscrew, slide to left, lift) 3b. Uncovered main circuit board (main PCB assembly) and tested voltage at pins during spin cycle - no voltage when tub should be draining - pins look too small for the required watts. 4. Ordered and installed replacement PCB assembly - water drains during spin cycle. 

After looking at reviews on your web site for the same problem, we determined it must be the control panel, so I ordered it, crossed fingers, and our son-in-law Installed the new board last night, and eureka, it works like a charm. In fact, it seems better than when it was new, but nevertheless, it only took him about 25 minutes to do the repair, and we are so pleased that we could find the part we needed at AppliancePartsPros.com. 

I replaced the pump first and that did not help. Replaced the board and it works perfect now. 

Removed pump .. powered it to make sure it worked . Pulled top of machine off , Removed main control board and replaced it . Machine works great!!