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Customer Questions and Answers for Washer Water Temperature Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18049497
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10184148

Washer only fills with hot water or stops mid-cycle? The water temperature switch controls incoming water temps for proper cycle selection. DIY repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Washer Water Temperature Switch (Part Number: OEM18049497)

1 Answer

Hi Vik. Usually when the washer fills washes then stops at rinse, it is waiting for the cold fill from the water valve part # WPW10144820. Remove the cold fill hose and flush out into a bucket. Look into the valve inlet screen to see if it is clogged w/ debris's blocking the old water entry. Some units will wash with the lid up but will stop at the rinse cycle because the lid switch part # WP8318084 needs replaced. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Petie. You will need to remove the screws in the back corners of the control panel. Then pull the control panel forward and flip it backwards. Pull the knob off the switch on the control panel. Next release the tab on the switch and twist the switch to remove the switch from the control panel. Install the new switch WPW10184148 in reverse order. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello John. It sounds like the thermistor, made into the water valve WPW10144820, is bad and the water valve will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Steven, You're on track, Yes replace the ATC switch, Your issue would indicate a weak circuit inside the switch circuit board. You should be fine from there. Thanks and Good Luck.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. If the water valve has 120 volts to the cold side, and the unit is not filling, it sounds like the valve WPW10144820 is not opening. Try testing across the white wire to ground and the yellow/red wire to ground, at the valve, and see if there is a voltage reading at the valve. Do not test across the two wires, test them to ground. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. Check and make sure the water supply is working into a bucket. Also check and make sure the hoses are not reversed on the valve. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. Now you will need to test the wire connection at the cold valve and see if there is 120 volts there. If so, make sure the water supply is working properly. If not, you will need to trace from the switch and see where your loosing voltage at. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. You will not need to remove any wire. You can test from the back of the plug at the ATC switch. Insert the leads of the meter, red into yellow/red wire and black into white wire, and look for 120 volts. The machine will need to be pluged in for this test. Be careful, you are dealing with live power inside the control panel. Look at this link on how to use a multi-meter. It has very good advise. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. According to the wiring diagram, yellow/red is the hot wire for the cold water valve. You will need to test and see if you have power across the white wire and the yellow/red wire at the ATC switch WPW10184148 with the unit on a cold fill. If so, you will need to look and see if there is a broken or burnt wire or trace and see where your loosing the power to the valve at. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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