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Customer Questions and Answers for Run Capacitor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18071040
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10662129

The Run Capacitor is an OEM part for Whirlpool appliances, designed to provide the necessary electrical charge to start and run the compressor motor. This part attaches to the compressor to aids in maintaining a consistent motor speed and ensuring smooth operation. The run capacitor plays a crucial role in the appliance's electrical system, storing and releasing energy as needed to power the motor.

Causes of a bad Run Capacitor include electrical surges, wear and tear over time, or overheating, which can lead to a failure in providing the necessary start-up energy or maintaining motor speed.

Symptoms of a bad Run Capacitor include:

  • The appliance does not start.
  • The motor shuts off shortly after starting.
  • The appliance is humming but not running.
  • Increased energy consumption.

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Run Capacitor (Part Number: OEM18071040)

Charmaine for Model Number Kenmore refrigerator from Sears.Model no.106.63864300

My Kenmore refrigerator from Sears keep shutting off.It started last year befor Christmas.It shuts off for hours.I had to put most of food in the deep freezer that could be saved.I went to the back of the refrigerator and vaccuumed the bottom of it real good of dust and hair from our dog. I even cleaned the motor blads with hot soapy water to cut the grease on it.Then suddenly it turned on! The freezer was cold enough to freeze food! I felt confident to put food in the refrigerator part.But it was not super cold but it was cold enough to put food in it. It ran Since then.Then last few weeks it started shutting off and water was inside of the refrigerator.A pool of water on the top right glass shelf and water will drip so much it will go down underneath the bins for the vegetables.I was puzzled to wonder why is this happening and where is the water dripping from.Last weekend My friend took out the back wall panel and bottom panel of the freezer and found ice! It was covered in ice! So the ice was removed and dried out with towel.We figure that is where the water was coming from dripping in the refrigerator.The coils were cold though.I couldnot tell looking at the wires and if something is going bad.But why did the ice formed in the first place? It still shuts off and comes on in some hours.Here is the weird thing.My friend opens the freezer door and slams it closed1- 3 times and the refrigerator turns on! The freezer turns on too! What is going on? This is not normal for the refrigerator to act.What is wrong with it? Slamming the freezer door for it to turn on? Plain weird! I had the Kenmore top freezer refrigerator since 2004.What parts does it need? Will it be expensive? It is way out of warranty now.

By for Model Number whirlpool ed5vhexvb03

My refrigerator and freezer have become sporadic as to when it runs/cools. Sometimes it will start up and run just fine, other times it will start and immediately stop, or will start run for 20 seconds or so and then stop. It will cool for 2-4 days just fine then it will act crazy for a day or two. It is approximately 2 years old and I have cleaned the coils. The condenser and evaporator motors seem to work properly when it runs. I'm just wondering if this could be a capacitor issue?

1 Answer

Hello By, From the problem description/complaint, this has to be one of two things causing the issue. Either the WPW10366605 Electronic Defrost Control, or the WP2198202 Cold Control.

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1 Answer

Hello Running. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the thermostat WPW10511937 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

G, You may be on track, The compressor, condenser fan and evaporator fan(in the freezer compartment) all use the same power source, when one is running, all three components should be running. You'll need to check for 120 VAC to chassis ground, on the red wire attached to the overload 4387913 If the voltage is present you'll need to test the compressor windings with a multimeter and replace the overload / relay assembly. If no voltage is present, you'll need to check and find where the red wire is broken or loose.

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1 Answer

Hello Dorothy, To begin with, I don't believe the run capacitor can be the issue because the unit would not achieve 35°F as you stated it does. The compressor would not run long enough to get that cool. First thing to do is clean the condenser coils if there's any lint on them and make sure the unit is pulled away from the wall so the coils are at least 3 inches from the wall. This provides air circulation which is necessary for proper operation of a sealed system. You see, the unit does not make cold, but it removes heat. The heat it removes is carried to the condenser coils where it is dissipated back into the room. The next thing to check is the freezer fan WP2315539. If it's running, note whether the back wall of the freezer has a frost build-up on it. If it does, you have a defrost issue. If this is the case, you probably have a bad defrost thermostat WPW10225581. The defrost timer, which is electronic on this model 4388931, and the defrost heater WP2263749, are the only other two components in the defrost circuit. If there is no frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer, you need to remove the back wall of the freezer to check the frost pattern. If there is only an ice ball on the top left, (where the freon lines come into the freezer compartment), you either have an inefficient compressor, a sealed system restriction, or a freon loss. This means the unit is not financially feasible to repair. (The repair will cost as much if not more than the replacement cost of the unit). If at any point, you have more questions or are not sure of how to interpret the diagnosis, please feel free to re-post and we will assist you further.

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Mike for Model Number JUC2450ARS

Everything in frig froze (think b/c the door was left open a crack). Once we thawed frig, cleaned it, and turned thermostat back to #4, everything froze again. We repeated above steps, but tried lowest and highest thermostat settings (1 & 7 - just to be sure that we weren't getting them confused as to highest & lowest) and everything froze each time. Today I repeated above steps but pulled frig out, cleaned condenser coils and all area around, plugged back in, set thermostat to #4 position and am giving it 48 hrs. to re-set itself with nothing in it (this is what the manual says to do). Any ideas-other than the thermostat sensor not working? Thanks so much!

1 Answer

Mike, You're on track, Now that everything is cleaned up and the door is closed and sealing all the way around, and the compartments are empty, you want to use an accurate thermometer in a cup of water and check for a temperature in the mid 30 dgr. range(38 to 40 dgrs. reccomended) after the 48 hour run time. If any adjustments are made you need to wait 24 hours, before doing another adjustment. If the problem persists, then replace the control. Thanks and Good Luck

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