David J. March 20, 2013 for Model Number WGD4800XQ0 Dryer was working fine then started to get a buzzing noise from the top right rear of the dryer now it wont heat up when running
1 Answer Hello David. Check all wiring on the unit and make sure you are getting power out of the timer. If not, and the timer motor is making the buzzing sound, you will need to order and replace the timer on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Chong March 17, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore 11092822101 HI, Thanks for your help in advance. My Kenmore Gas Dryer (11092822101) High-Limit Thermostat (Part # 3403140) keeps tripping after the burner on for a minute or so then it will reset itself after it cool down. I know it is doing its job by checking the temperature rear around the HI -Limit Thermostat. Could you please tell me what is the cause for the high temperature which rear around the burner? The exhaust duct and everything else is clean and I even remove the duct work from the dryer and it still trip the high limit by high temperature. Perhaps the problem is the gas valve?
1 Answer Chong, Based on the information, check just to make sure that there is no lint clogged in the blower wheel but it sounds like you have a weak high limit thermostat. Read More...
Tim February 18, 2013 for Model Number MGDC200XW - Maytag I get no heat - checked HSI and it ohmed out at 65 ohms. Checked and don't have voltage to HSI. What do I check next?
1 Answer Hello Tim, You will want to check continuity of the thermal fuses and thermostats. If there is no continuity then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. Read More...
Joe M February 06, 2013 for Model Number 11072812101 Dryer is lighting. After running for a while it seems to cool off. Clothes were in for 80 minutes some were dry , some still slightly damp. Vent is clean.
1 Answer Hello Joe. It sounds like the coils are bad. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter MA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Vladimir December 12, 2012 for Model Number IGD4400SQ0 29" Gas Dryer Hi, my dryer starts heating and shuts off after 1 minute after first start, and then starts for 20-30 sec and shuts off during the whole drying cycle as a result it is not drying completely. I changed coils and thermal cut off (two thermostat kit) . but it keep doing the same things. After gas starts burning in about 20-30 second I can hear a loud click noise and flames cut off. Thank you.
1 Answer Hello Vladimir, You will want to check your flame sensor to make sure that it is closing back after the unit shuts down. Check continuity. You also want to check your venting from the blower all the way back to the outside of your home to make sure that it is clear. If it is not clear and you have a clog it will cause this type of issue. Read More...
Paul October 16, 2012 for Model Number lgr8620pg0 Whirlpool dryer No heat Changed ignitor Doesnt even try to heat
1 Answer Hello Paul. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Don B. September 13, 2012 for Model Number ggw9878p0 Gas dryer - video shows 2 back panels. My dryer has 1 panel. Taking out all screws but cannot take panel off. Seems that vent pipe is about 1.4-1/2 long. The gas pipe is elbow L shape pointing up and does not not allow me to pull back off. Also video of cut off #16 and video for #15 seem to show same area for both parts on the left side. Fuse part #7 appears to be on the left side but shows no video. Thanks in advance. don should I just saw a little of of the vent pipe or is there an easier way. thanks in advance.
1 Answer Hi Don. The 90° elbow on the gas pipe can be removed with 2 pipe wrenches. Just hold the supply tube to the inside of the dryer tight so you do not disturb the inner connections. Then you can remove the back panel. Then on the side of the blower wheel outer vent cover are the 2 thermostats mentioned. They are both in the kit part # W11050897. Thank you. Read More...
Charles August 10, 2012 for Model Number kenmore 11092822101 Our Kenmore 11092822101 Gas Dryer stopped heating. All functions on my dryer appear to work, but it is not generating any heat. On any heat generating cycle, the ignitor never glows, so I checked to see if it is getting any power, and the wires to the ignitor do not appear to be getting any juice. The hi-temp thermostat, ignitor and the flame sensor are closed for continuity, the two prong coil will reads 1,318 ohms (just outside of range), and the three prong coil reads 1,380 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 562 ohms across prongs 1&3. Several of the threads read plural thermostats, so am I missing one? What else do I need to check? Thanks.
1 Answer Charles, start at the gas valve, disconnect the wire harness, start the dryer in a drying cycle,Check for 120 VAC from the blue wire terminal to chassis ground(not the gas valve connection). No voltage would indicate an open thermal fuse WP3390719, an open hi limit switch W11050897 , or a faulty heater relay on the control board WP8546219, or a broken wire. You're right, you only have one(1) thermostat in your dryer, the hi limit switch. The Thermistor WP8577274 on the blower housing controls the temperature in the drum and should have a resistance of 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If there is no voltage on the blue wire at the gas valve connector. the flame sensor and the igniter will not function, based on your post description, you next check is for voltage to the gas valve. Thanks Read More...
Jamal August 03, 2012 for Model Number kenmore 11078532700 My dryer it work but stopped heating suddenly and I been told to change the timer and the ignitor and I did and still not heating up. What should I do next?
1 Answer Hello Jamal. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Fred F. May 14, 2012 for Model Number 110.75962401 The timer operates on "timed dry" just fine. On "Auto Dry", the "timer" does not advance at all. The dryer heats up just fine, and drys the clothes, it just never shuts off in the "Auto Dry" mode. I have changed the sensors and the cycling thermostat, but that had no effect. Checked all wire connections at timer, and door switch works fine. Dryer does not seem to get overly hot, and I do hear the burner kicking on and off, periodically, during the "timed dry" use of the dryer. Checked all vents, vent connections, blower, and blower housings. They were spotless and working fine.
1 Answer Hello Fred, If the unit will advance on the timed dry setting but not on the automatic settings, the problem isn't with the dryer, but with the exhaust duct. I've had arguments about this before so to avoid this, let's try an experiment. If the problem is the duct, the dryer will advance on the automatic cycles if the duct is disconnected. So disconnect the duct and watch the timer on the automatic setting. It may take 5 or 10 minutes for you to notice that it has advanced, but it will. Let me explain why this is. On the timed cycles, the timer motor has voltage applied to it at all times, so it advances at a constant rate. On the automatic cycles, the timer motor only gets voltage when the moisture sensors inside the unit are not picking up the presence of moisture. If the unit advances when the duct is off it's because the moisture has been purged from the unit and voltage is now being supplied to the timer. Read More...