Customer Questions and Answers for High Limit Thermostat Kit by Whirlpool

Hello David. Check all wiring on the unit and make sure you are getting power out of the timer. If not, and the timer motor is making the buzzing sound, you will need to order and replace the timer on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Chong, Based on the information, check just to make sure that there is no lint clogged in the blower wheel but it sounds like you have a weak high limit thermostat.

Hello Tim, You will want to check continuity of the thermal fuses and thermostats. If there is no continuity then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced.

Hello Joe. It sounds like the coils are bad. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter MA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Vladimir, You will want to check your flame sensor to make sure that it is closing back after the unit shuts down. Check continuity. You also want to check your venting from the blower all the way back to the outside of your home to make sure that it is clear. If it is not clear and you have a clog it will cause this type of issue.

Hello Paul. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hi Don. The 90° elbow on the gas pipe can be removed with 2 pipe wrenches. Just hold the supply tube to the inside of the dryer tight so you do not disturb the inner connections. Then you can remove the back panel. Then on the side of the blower wheel outer vent cover are the 2 thermostats mentioned. They are both in the kit part # W11050897. Thank you.

Charles, start at the gas valve, disconnect the wire harness, start the dryer in a drying cycle,Check for 120 VAC from the blue wire terminal to chassis ground(not the gas valve connection). No voltage would indicate an open thermal fuse WP3390719, an open hi limit switch W11050897 , or a faulty heater relay on the control board WP8546219, or a broken wire. You're right, you only have one(1) thermostat in your dryer, the hi limit switch. The Thermistor WP8577274 on the blower housing controls the temperature in the drum and should have a resistance of 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If there is no voltage on the blue wire at the gas valve connector. the flame sensor and the igniter will not function, based on your post description, you next check is for voltage to the gas valve. Thanks

Hello Jamal. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Fred, If the unit will advance on the timed dry setting but not on the automatic settings, the problem isn't with the dryer, but with the exhaust duct. I've had arguments about this before so to avoid this, let's try an experiment. If the problem is the duct, the dryer will advance on the automatic cycles if the duct is disconnected. So disconnect the duct and watch the timer on the automatic setting. It may take 5 or 10 minutes for you to notice that it has advanced, but it will. Let me explain why this is. On the timed cycles, the timer motor has voltage applied to it at all times, so it advances at a constant rate. On the automatic cycles, the timer motor only gets voltage when the moisture sensors inside the unit are not picking up the presence of moisture. If the unit advances when the duct is off it's because the moisture has been purged from the unit and voltage is now being supplied to the timer.