Customer Questions and Answers for High Limit Thermostat Kit by Whirlpool

Hello Darrell, You need to replace the coils 279834 on the safety valve and it will operate normally.

Hello Josh, You either have a bad ignitor WP338906 or a bad coil 279834 on the safety valve. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html The resistance on one will read 500 to 700 ohms. The other coil which has two windings will read 500 to 700 on one and the other 1200 to 1700 ohms. There is no good test for the ignitor.

Hi David. There is thermistor mounted on top of the blower hsg. and it should read 10,000 ohms cold. If it is out of range then it will allow the incorrect temperatures. If the vent system is clogged it will back up and allow lint and moisture to collect on the face of the sensor to run it also. Thermistor part # WP8577274. Thank You.

Hi Granpa. You need to check the entire vent system first. Clean all of it and also get the vent cap outside to make sure it opens and closes properly. This way after the repair you can sleep better because the lint clogs will not back up and the safety will be insured. If it needs to be restarted at the same timer spot, then you need to change the timer part # WP3976584. If not then I will suspect weak coils set that open / close the gas valve part # 279834. The flame sensor basically acts as a cycling thermostat and needs to be checked for 0-ohms while cold (closed) part # WP338906. Thank You.

Hello Kevin. You will need to test the door switch WP3406107 and the high limit W11050897. Both should read closed for continuity. The door switch will only read closed with the lever pressed in. If either is open, you will need to replace that part. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Ron! This answer was located on our Repair Forum, this is a free service in which technicians will assist with answering repair questions for our customers. Please use this link to assist in your repair. Hope this helps, thanks! http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/4743-no-heat-gas-dryer.html

Wes, A model number would have been a big help. But the thermostats and fuses would not have an effect on the dryer start and run, at this point. I presume this is a GAS dryer so : The red wire from the timer should attach to one of the terminals on the hi limit switch. The red with white stripe wire shouls attach to the other terminal and route over and attach to one terminal of the cycling thermostat. The two purple wires should attach to the two small terminals of the cycling thermostat, as well. The other red wire will attach to the other large terminal of the cycling thermostat abd will route and attach to the terminal of the thermal fuse. The Blue wire fom the gas valve wiring harness will attach to the other terminal of the thermal fuse. and one blue wire should attach to the terminals of the radiant/flame sensor, on the burner housing. That should get the thermostats wired and ready to go. Make sure, one of those red wires is not the motor circuit wire. There is a red wire that attaches to the motor at one end and the push to start switch at the other. That may be thr reason for your no start issue. Good Luck.

B.Dy , First thing to do is check your exhaust vent system, a restricted vent could create your issue. On your style dryer there are 4(four) temperature settings, No heat lo heat/delicate cycles off at 130 dgrsF. Medium heat cycles off at 140 dgrsF. and High heat setting which cycles to 150 dgrsF. There is a 10% varience in the temperature built into the thermostat. If you have a cook or candy thermometer you can verify the exhaust temperature by holding the thermometer buld in the exhaust air flow and check the temperature, after the burner has cycled off and on 3 or 4 times. Check that temperature with the drum empty, and make sure the lint filter is clean and the exhaust is disonnected. Good Luck.

Dave, you're on the right track, The next step to make, disconnect the exhaust vent from the back of the dryer and recheck for the heat operation. A clogged exhaust vent or lint filter, distrupts the air flow, and causes the hi limit thermostat to open, it should'nt ever open. You may want to replace it, it could be weak (due to cycling off and on) but check the venting and lint filter area for clogs, first. Thanks and Good Luck.

Jason, Your dryer has a removable lower access panel, you can remove it with a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver, at the top of the panel. After you remove it, you can observe the gas valve, and the gas valve ignition sequencee ane operation. Start the dryer on a heated dry cycle, you should see the igniter start to glow, in a few seconds the igniter should start to fade and the gas should ignite. If the igniter never glows, that could indicate a broken igniter or no power to the gas valve, if the glow bar glows, but does not fade, would indicate a bad flame sensor switch, if the glowbar glows and fades but no gas is released that would indicate a bad set of gas valve coils 279834 or no gas to the dryer. Good Luck.