Whirlpool WP8577274 Thermistor OEM Part

I am not an electrician, just a housewife with limited funds and a desire to DIY. I used the provided videos for knowing how to replace everything except the heating element which I just guessed based on other reviews and seeing how the other parts worked. Our dryer is 11 years old Whirlpool Gold HE and I have only ever cleaned the lint tray. My husband replaced the belt about five years ago and he did clean out the inside of the dryer. Started by ordering a thermal fuse because it was stated that is often the reason for not heat. Figured I'd save a few bucks and got the cheapest shipping (won't do that again, pay the extra and get it sooner) and when it arrived about a week later I replaced the thermal fuse. Still no heat. But I did notice a lot of lint build up and spent time cleaning that out. Ordered the Heating Element, moisture sensor bar, thermal cut off kit, and dryer thermister. (Paid for faster delivery time although it wasn't truly Two Day since it was Friday when I ordered it, but package did arrive on Tuesday). When they arrived I replaced each of those not bothering to check if they were in fact defective but instead assuming they were due to lack of heat and lint build up. The videos were extremely helpful. There's no way I could have figured out the replacement process otherwise because I'm a visual learner. I also ordered the multi tool but I could have saved myself some money by not getting it. What would have been more helpful would have been a power nut driver or 1/4" ratchet. I did have a difficult time getting some of the nuts loosened but was able to get some with a 1/4" monkey wrench and others my husband helped to take off. After much swearing and sweating I got the job finished. The actual repairs were only around five minutes each, but it took longer then that for me to keep watching the videos and wait for my husband to help with the screws I couldn't get. He was pretty proud of me doing the job mostly by myself. After replacing the parts I started the dryer on high heat and ran it for a few seconds before I smelt a weird odor. I turned it off and googled the burning smell (like when the heat first comes in in the winter) and found it to be normal. So I ran the dryer for 15 minutes on Air Dry only. Then tried the heat cycle again and did not have any odor. I'm still waiting for my lint duct cleaning kit to arrive and once it does I will clean the ducts thoroughly and put that on my spring and fall cleaning lists. Definitely glad I found this site and that they provide the helpful videos. I suppose I might have saved a few bucks by testing each part first and then only ordering and using the ones I needed, but having been without a dryer for almost two weeks I wasn't wasting anymore time.

My dryer stopped running, and emitted a burning smell. I'm a cheapskate and do enjoy DIY stuff, so I thought I'd try this. The dryer is 15 yo so I figured it would not be a good idea to pay someone else to fix it, I'd rather buy a new dryer. I did some Googling and was hoping it was simply a burned out fuse. Luckily, I had a multi-meter and was able to determine it was not the fuse. (By no means am I an electrical whiz.) Sure enough, looking into the unit I saw the belt had broken. I watched numerous videos and took the dryer apart. While in there I saw the idler wheel had basically seized and half melted off. While I was there, I tested the thermistor which appeared to be dead. I bought the kit, which was the belt, wheels and idler wheel. Although the wheels were fine, I felt it would be worth the extra bucks to avoid future issues. After cleaning the machine, I installed the parts. That took all of ten minutes, with just popping the wheels on and stringing the belt. Swapping the thermistor took a minute.I worked very carefully when dissembling and then reassembling the unit. With great hesitation, I reassembled the dryer and pressed the start button. It actually worked- what a miracle. FYI, my dryer hose was massively clogged, be sure to clean this before starting the machine. I stuck my hand in there to pull out the big stuff, and ran a vacuum through it . The lint build up was akin to what happens when people's arteries get clogged. It had narrowed like crazy. There was a half inch of lint around the entire dryer diameter. I also cut about 6 feet of extra dryer hose off- thus making the unit more efficient, and giving lint less places to hide. I will run my first full load tonight and report back if there any issues. Thanks to all of the kind souls how share their 'how tos' on the Internet!

I bought a used dryer with known problem of intermittently shutting off before the dry cycle was complete. I cleaned out all the air paths that were readily accessible and verified that the drying cycle generally worked but was sometimes stopped after about only 6 or 7 minutes (on either moisture sensing cycle or timed cycle). If left unattended, it was hard to diagnose because the control system drives the timer dial to the end of the cycle in just a few minutes and everything looks normal except the clothes were not dry. The intermittent nature made it hard to troubleshoot, but it became more frequent and I noted that some of the times when it stopped, simply pressing the start button let it run only while the start button was held down. Swapping the main relay with the heat relay let it restart reliably (with the heat now sometimes intermittent) so I replaced both the relays. Now, the dryer would generally restart pressing the start button, but would eventually run only for shorter intervals (just 1 or 2 minutes). The thermistor in the ducting after the fan was suspect and when I gained access to replace the thermistor, it was obvious that a lot of lint was still packed around the vanes of the fan. Thoroughly cleaning that (and replacing the thermistor with the new one that showed a different resistance for each temperature) seems, so far, to have corrected the problem. It seems likely that the fan blockage reduced the air flow enough for the questionable thermistor to report a high enough temperature in the exhaust for the control board to shut off the dryer as a safety concern. Time will tell if nothing else is still at play.

Symptom: The dryer's control panel would light up; however, the drum would not start. A diagnostic test showed "F4/E4." (Note: This dryer has no history of issues and worked flawlessly for almost a decade prior to this problem.) I researched the problem online. I found that it could be as simple as a faulty Thermal Fuse (WP3392519//AP6008325) or as difficult as several bad components, to include the aforementioned Thermal Fuse, the Thermistor (WP8577274//AP6013514), and/or the Electronic Control Board (WPW10542001//AP6022778). I erred on the side of caution and ordered all three parts. While they were being shipped to my house, I thoroughly cleaned lint, hair, and other debris from the inside of the appliance after I removed the top, back, control panel, lint screen, lint screen housing assembly, lint duct, door housing, and exhaust pipe. I also cleaned all the parts I removed, and I used my backpack leaf blower to blow accumulated lint through the exhaust pipe behind my dryer and out the vent on the side of my home. When the parts were delivered, I removed the old Thermal Fuse and Thermistor and replaced them with the new ones. I had plenty of room to do so via the back of the dryer even though all of the online videos I could find showed the fix being done after removing the dryer drum, which I did not want to do. I reassembled the dryer and tested it. Since it had returned to normal working order, I did not install the Electronic Control Board, which was still in its unopened manufacturer's box.. I opted to return it for a refund. (Note: Do not open the box that contains the Electronic Control Board until you are sure that it is needed to complete the repair.) As a result of this experience, I have learned some very valuable lessons. First, despite having no background with appliance repair, I am very capable of fixing and maintaining the washer and dryer in my home as long as I do the proper online research. Second, I will perform dryer-related lint cleanings about every 18-24 months in the future OR sooner if I notice the that "Clean Lint Screen" light stays red continuously.

I replaced the "heating element" which was bad.........as well as the "Thermst-fix" and "Thermal Cutoff" which are located on the side of the element mounting location while I had the dyer all opened up and the element mounting tube removed.......I also replaced the Dryer Thermister which is located on the top of the blower fan.....To get to these parts, you must open the top of the dryer which has spring latches on both sides of the front corners... they need to be pressed in (use a putty knife or kitchen knife) to press in and then the top will raise on it's back hinges.....you then must get the entire front panel removed before you can get to the bottom of the dryer where these are located...after the top is raised on its back hinges, take a screw out on each side of the top panel and then raise the front panel straight up to remove it from it's bottom brackets....You will also have to remove the Dryer Lint screen housing Bottom center ( 4 screws) to get to the fan blower housing