Rico January 31, 2014 for Model Number Whirlpool dishwasher GU2800XTVS1 Before it was not completing the wash and dry cycle and left some water in bottom. I replaced the control board and it washes and empties the water but it won't complete the Santi-dry (Sanitizing) and no lights on control panel when finished. Can anyone help me?
1 Answer Hello Rico, This sounds like you have a drain issue. I would remove the drain pump WPW10348269 and check for debris and obstructions. Check the impeller on the drain pump also since it can separate from the drain motor shaft and will sound like it is draining when it should, but it cannot push any water. Read More...
Paul April 30, 2013 for Model Number 665.13182k802 I have dirty water left in the bottom of the dishwasher at the end of the cycle, I have tried the diagnostics sequence of heated dry, wash 3 times and it runs through the cycle. When will the lights blink the code? At the end? I have no blinking lights and I replaced the pump and it ran right once and then started up with the dirty water again. What should I check next?
1 Answer Hello Paul. Make sure none of the hoses are clogged on the unit. If they are clear, we will test for power to the pump. If there is power there, and it does not drain, replace the drain pump on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
George February 12, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore Elite Dishwasher 665.13189k802 The "start" and "cancel/Drain" buttons on my dishwasher do not light up and will not work. I learned online that using button sequence "normal wash" - "heated Dry""normal wash" - "Heated Dry""normal wash" puts the machine in diagnostic test. All lights activate and when I close the door it runs through a short cycle. When completed all lights are off and the problem remains. (no flashing lights or other indicators of diagnostic fault) Any guidance you can provide is appreciated George
1 Answer Hello George. Check and make sure the cable is good on the unit and if so, you will need to order and replace the control panel WPW10179448 on the unit. Read More...
Doug A. November 28, 2012 for Model Number Kitchenaid dishwasher KUDE03FTBL1 Dishwasher will not complete the wash. It stops mid wash cycle, will usually have water in bottom, and not all of the soap has been used. Also, when the machine stops, the 'clean' light will be flashing. If I press the resume button, the cycle seems to continue. However, the 'clean' light will be flashing even though the cycle seems to complete and the dishes are clean and dry. Do I need a circuit board, or door switch, or what? Please help.
1 Answer Hello Doug, When the clean light flashes it can only mean one of two things. It can mean that the clean button is stuck and the control panel WPW10084468 is in need of replacement or it can mean that the heating circuit has failed. The way to tell which has happened is that if the heating circuit has failed, the clean light will flash seven times with a pause and then flash seven times with a pause, etc. If this is the case, you need to troubleshoot the heating circuit. There are five components: the heating element, the high limit thermostat, the door switch, the control, and the wiring harness. There should be a tech sheet behind the kick panel which will show the wiring diagram. This should enable you to shoot through the circuit with an ohm meter. If it reads open from the control board, you will need to test each component individually. Let us know if we need to render further assistance. Read More...
John November 10, 2012 for Model Number GU2800XTB2 The dishwasher has flashing control lights and more than one LED is lit. pushing start,cancel or any other button does nnot clear. I suspect that the board is shorted but have no information about how to troubleshoot, repair, or replace the board. Can you guide me? John
1 Answer John, If you haven't had any power or electrical issues recently, you will most likely need the keypad assembly WPW10175353. We are sending you the information you requested, you'll be able to diagnose and repair the dishwasher in no time. Thanks Read More...
Travis November 06, 2012 for Model Number kube40cvbl2 I push normal wash and start/resume button the wash button comes on and starts. in 5 to 10 seconds the wash button goes out and the start/resume button blinks.
1 Answer Travis, You'll need to check and make sure the door switches and wires are tight and there is no excess "play" in the door latch assembly "Won’t Run and LED for Start/Resume Key is Blinking Slowly - By design, if the door is opened or power is interrupted during a cycle, the user must press the Start/Resume key to resume operation. - Start/Resume key not responding. - Control detected door switch problem.". You'll also want to check the supply wiring in the junction box, Make sure all three connections are good and tight, no arc marks or discoloration on the wiring or connectors. A momentary loss or reduction to the power supply can create a similar situation. If alls OK, then repalce the control panel / keypad assembly WP8572354. Thanks Read More...
Andy September 04, 2012 for Model Number gu3600 The control panel is inoperative except for the cancel button.
1 Answer Hello Andy, Discontinue the power supply to the unit and pull the door panel off to access the control board. Unplug the ribbon cable and use the eraser from a pencil to clean the ribbon cable connections. It is extremely important to only rub the traces on the ribbon cable in the same direction they run. If you go other directions it will damage the ribbon cable and the control panel will have to be replaced since the only way to get the ribbon cable is with the control panel. If this doesn't correct the issue, the control panel will have to be replaced. Read More...
Paul January 28, 2012 for Model Number 66513429k701 Thanks again for the help already. I've asked a couple of questions in the heater section and it would seem like you're recommending replacing my circuit board. But, prior to ordering this part, I'd like to follow up with a couple more questions. I ran a diags by doing heated dry, high temp (3 times). It ran through and I think on step 5 and 9 the clean light came on for 5 seconds (which I think means everything is ok. The clean light did not blink on any other stages which makes me think there isn't any errors. Maybe I'm just going crazy but here's my logic/question... The water at the tap is about 110 and probably 105 when the wash cycle begins as it takes a bit of time to get to hot water (it may even be a bit less as the rinse cycle takes 20 min or so. After the wash cycle has begun with the High Temp option turned on and I've waited about 30 to 40 min, the water temp is about 95 degrees. The heating coil does not feel as if it's been on when I touch it. This is why I believe there is an issue. I'd expect the temp to be around 120 at some point during the cycle. Is there another magic keystroke I should be doing (like heated dry and normal wash (twice))? I've ran that and i'm not seeing anything that would indicate an issue. Additionally, I have replaced the OWI which I thought was a reasonable thing to replace. I had errors prior to replacing the OWI (like 8-2, 5-2, 3-3, 4-1 and 7-1), but I'm not seeing those now; but maybe I'm not initiating the right key sequence like I did during a test earlier in the week. Sorry for the length of this question, but I'd really like to tackle this issue. I also check both thermal fuses (on the bottom and the one on the circuit board and both showed continuity. Finally, I just tried checking the connectors on the circuit board and couldn't figure out how to discounted the ribbon cable on the left.. it seemed pretty tight.. can it be pulled straight out with fingers or is there some other trick? Thanks so much for your help.
1 Answer Hi Paul. Lets take this from the top. You always will need to run the tap water and if you do not have at least 120° incoming water then today's dishwashers will not run properly. You may need a plumber to do this for you. Once this is established then you need to remove the power. Unhook one wire (or both) and test the heater element for continuity. It should be ohms, not shorted or open. Like you said the thermostats are closed and you should get 120 vac to the heater w/ one wire disconnected so you do not read through the heater. If you do not get the 120vac to the heater then back track the wire connections, all wires and the complete circuit back to the control board. You need to check at pins P9 blue/red wire to white/red wire neutral at in heated dry to see if the K2 pilot relay is closing and the K3 heater relay are giving the 120 vac output to the heater circuit. The heater will have 10-30 ohms. Make sure the door switches are working correctly w/ a ohm meter. Thank You. Read More...