Cathy July 18, 2022 for Model Number KUDS30IVBL2 My KitchenAid Dishwasher is approximately 11 years and won't complete a cycle and leaves water in tub. The lights on panel all flash. You have to push and push the buttons to get it to work and sometimes it won't work. I've unplugged it then plugged in and that doesn't help. Is it the control panel or control board? Does the control panel have the control board in it? Thank you.
1 Answer Cathy, Make sure that there is nothing clogged in the pump but this will most likely be an issue with the control board. Read More...
Alex March 01, 2020 for Model Number GU2475XTVY0 Hello - None of the cycle selection buttons work on the touch panel or light up when selected, with the exception of the rinse & dry cycles on the right side of the button panel. Would this be an electronic panel issue or the touch pad panel? Thank you
1 Answer Alex, you will need part number WPW10175239 for the control panel in the color black. Read More...
Hank October 18, 2018 for Model Number kuds30ivbl3 my kuds30ivbl3 whirlpool dishwasher's touchpad buttons are lightly dimmed all the time. When we run it, those appropriate lights are brightly lite and the dishwasher seems to run fine. It's the constantly on, but dim, buttons that concern me. What does it mean and what should I do?
1 Answer Hank with the control panel having lights on continuously then this would most likely be caused by a control board that is sending power to the display when in the off position. Read More...
Pat August 12, 2018 for Model Number 66513742K603 None of the selection buttons work on the touch panel when you try to select a cycle, but when you hit Start, the machine goes into Light Wash and runs normally with all correct lights on (Light Wash, Washing etc..,Heated Dry and Start). When done, the Clean light is on and the dishes are clean. Thanks.
1 Answer Pat, With some buttons working but other buttons not working this issue would be with the control panel of the unit. Read More...
Erica April 25, 2017 for Model Number 665.13102K902 For the past few uses, I found the "Normal Wash" light flashing red just intermittently. I emptied the dishwasher after it had run, came back by later, and it was flashing. Then it was flashing again the other day but I was able to turn it off by pushing the button and the cancel button. Tonight I turned it on to run and left the room. Not much later, I came back and the red light was flashing beside normal wash as well as the red light for the cancel button. Pushing these does not work. I tried throwing the breaker, leaving it for 30 seconds. When I came back the red normal wash light was still flashing, and the start/resume was flashing green. However, there is no effect when I push these buttons. I even tried throwing the breaker for half an hour or so to the same result.
1 Answer Erica, This issue would be caused by a stuck keypad and will require the control panel of the unit to be replaced. Read More...
Fixinmom August 05, 2016 for Model Number KUDS40FVPA4 My Kitchen Aid dishwasher model KUDS40FVPA4 start button will not light or connect to start the cycle. This had been happening intermittently and now the dishwasher will not start at all. The rest of the buttons on the touch panel light when pressed. I reset the computer via the High Temp/Heated Dry buttons and the machine ran through. Any thoughts? Thank you.
1 Answer Sorry, The part that is needed, W10243169, has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part. Read More...
Chad August 29, 2015 for Model Number 665.13482K902 At times my control panel won't respond but takes time and a lot of work to get it to through. When washing, it won't switch from different cycles or able to change options. I have noticed though when washing the Cancel / Drain button will be light up red. When it was washing it would have the light on for "Drying" was lite up. I have no idea how to reset the dishwasher like others have been talking about. I have a 665.13482K902 I've grown frustrated with this dishwasher...
1 Answer Chad, The most likely cause for the issue that you are having with your unit will be a faulty electronic control board. To reset the unit it is just turning the power supply to the unit off for about 15 to 20 minutes. Read More...
Jeff June 23, 2015 for Model Number 665.13102K902 No lights on the panel and nothing will work. I have power to the wire nuts. Both the thermal fuse and door latch switch show continuity. Is it time to replace the main circuit board or is there something else to test first?
1 Answer Hello Jeff. Test and see if there is power to the control board. If so, you will need to replace the board in the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Sue March 25, 2015 for Model Number DUL300XTLT2 My dishwasher has no power. The customer rep at Sears Parts Direct thinks it needs a new electronic control board but would not give me a part number. I have found a couple numbers on line but need to know what part number I will need.
1 Answer Hello Sue, If the thermal fuse 8193762 is not open or a wire nut burned In the electrical connection box behind the kick panel, the part number for the control board is WP8564543. Read More...
Wgilliam February 08, 2015 for Model Number mdb8959aww4 My dishwasher started giving the clean light 7 blinking code. I've checked the heating element (It heats up). I've done the reset numerous times and the dishwasher runs fine for typically three full washes, then will stop in the middle of the next one and start the blinking again.
1 Answer Hello Wgilliam, There are typically five components in the water heating circuit that will trigger the fault code. The heating element WPW10082892, the high limit thermostat WP661566, the door switches WP8269209 X 2, the control WPW10285179 and the harness WPW10413099. The incoming water should be between 120°F to 125°F to prevent a long heating period which can time out the control. The water should be no hotter than 125°F so the control can see a temperature increase from the heating circuit or it will fault the cycle. The unit should be secured under the countertop so all four feet share the weight of the unit to prevent a twist in the body which can prevent both door switches from "making". You can test the heating element, high limit thermostat and harness to them from terminals P9 (blue with red trace) to P3 (white with red trace) on the control board. Remember that the control is part of the circuit and it can also fail. Unless voltage is noted to be absent during the time chart period of water heating, the control is normally suspected last. Read More...