Customer Questions and Answers for Icemaker by Whirlpool

Robert, the failure could be in the motor module 8201515, on/off switch WP2313326, or cycling thermostat WP627985. With the front cover of the ice maker removed, the motor can be tested by using a jumper wire placed from T to H. If the motor starts moving, once the arms reach the left side, the jumper wire would need to be removed. If the cycle continues into the ice maker calling for water, the failure would be in the thermostat. If the motor does not rotate, the on/off switch would need to be tested for incoming and outgoing 120VAC. If there is proper voltage on both sides of the switch, the motor module has failed. If there is not, the switch has failed.

Hello Mark the ice maker 's thermostat is normally open and closes at about 17 deg. Ice maker testing involves first checking that the ice maker is getting cold enough, use a thermometer and check the temp at the ice maker and it should read below 15 deg. Next tape the left side ref door light/interlock switch closed, remove the ice bin, check the ice maker's bail arm is in the down position, and using a putty knife ort flat screwdriver pry the ice maker's cover off and use a multimeter to test for 120v at the test points L and N, if there is 120v then test between T and H, if it also reads 120v then the thermostat is open.

The single valve at the back of the refrigerator feeds through the filter and to a double valve (one for the ice maker and one for the dispenser) located in the refrigerator near the water tank and filter assembly. I would recommend checking the valve, the filter, and the water lines to see if you can locate what is stopping the water flow.

Jon, It sounds like you have either a fill tube frozen up to the ice maker or you have a water valve for the ice maker that is bad. I would recommend checking these and if further issues you can call and speak to one of our reps at 1-877-477-7278

Hello Nicholas, the fact the ice maker rotated and filled means it has correct power to it and the water valve is working. The noise you hear is likely the ice maker Auxilary fan motor located behind the ice maker , Part W11529245.

Tom, If the display does not show Ice Maker Off then the ice maker is in the on position. If it is in the on position then the issue will be with the main control not sending power to the icemaker. If the ice maker is in the off position then press temp and Fast cool for 3 seconds to turn it to the on position.

Hello Kirk, if the problem was the control board then replacing the ice maker would not have corrected the problem. It's unusual to have to replace the ice maker after just 2 months' use. Try this first before replacing the ice maker again. The current ice maker, uninstall it then reinstall it , checking the wire connections carefully, and see if the ice maker works ok after 24 hours. If stil same then the ice maker is faulty again.

Hello Dean, here are the checks, temperature in the ice maker compartment has to be below 15 deg, the left side ref door liner has to fully depress the light /interlock switch when closed, the ice maker should be set to "on" if it has an on/off switch on the side of the icemaker head, ice bail arm in down position, lastly if you pry the front cover off the ice maker head and using a multimeter check for 120v on wire terminal test points, L-N, then insert a short insulated jumper wire into terminals T-H to bypass the internal thermostat ,remove jumper after about 10 seconds if motor starts,if ice maker still not starting replace the ice maker.

Paul Prusa, you will need to use the new wiring harness or it will not plug into the new icemaker. They changed the module on the new icemaker and the plug is different. The electronics inside of the original icemaker has failed and the new design is more of a traditional design, you are on the correct pathway by replacing the icemaker.

Hello Drew, the manufacturer's replacement ice maker for your model is W10882923.