Whirlpool W10882923 Icemaker OEM Part

After researching a number of sites for a diagnosis I tended to think the culprit was going to be the ice maker thermostat. Checking pricing and availability of the thermostat prices were very close at $40 BUT wait now you have to but the thermo mastic at another $35-$40. And after some continued research the factory ice maker in a $3000 msrp 4 door refrigerator was/is known to be defective long after warranty period expires. So it only made intelligent sense to buy the entire icemaker at a cost of $115 with tax and shipping plus only took 3 days with the holiday (Christmas) on a Saturday fed ex delivered it on Sunday morning with standard shipping. Most sites were questioning water valve but I had water from the dispenser with great pressure so I figured at most I'd have the worst done and a simple $75-$80 part to put on after. Now I'm not overly mechanically inclined, I can change my own oil in my car and change out an outlet or switch but it took an hour and a half between removing wiring and installing the unit and watching a youtube video from AppliancePartsPros.com. After plugging connectors together I heard unit attempt to cycle but no water in it. A bit frustrated I figured I'd check for plug the next, but low and behold about 12 hours later I heard the worst crash, whole ice cube tray emptying in the empty ice bin. Working like a charm since, actually best it's worked since we got fridge. Unit always had issues sometime a whole solid piece of ice or quarter pieces moons, now it's all uniform.

My Whirlpool Model WRX735SDBM00 refrigerator ice maker had been working intermittently but then started to overflow on occasion when fill valve hung open. Turned off breaker that closed the fill valve. Afterwards the ice maker stopped working but would make sounds frequently as if it was trying to cycle. After months of looking at reviews decided to order a replacement ice maker from AppliancePartsPros. I received my new ice maker in less than 24 hours after placing the order shipped by Fedex with standard shipping. There was no instructions provided in shipment but watched several videos posted on line prior to attempting to install new unit. Two wiring assemblies were provided so looked at the old unit harness to compare the end connection pin arrangement to ensure I used the correct wiring harness. The entire wiring harness from the old unit has to be removed in order to install the new harness and ice maker. Took my time to ensure I made all wiring harness connections properly as this was my first time attempting a job like this. Took me 3 hours from beginning to end of installation. Ice maker worked like new after installation with no problems. Just make sure you either label wiring harness connections as you remove old Ice maker harness/icemaker from assembly housing or pay special attention to all the connections as you remove the old unit to ensure you make the proper connections during installation of the new unit. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself and appreciate the quick delivery of OEM part from AppliancePartsPros.com.

Evaluating my Whirlpool refrigerator ice maker problem, that of diminishing ice cube size and culminating in failure to produce any cubes, with normal interior temperatures, I found that my Whirlpool fridge, model GZ25FSRXYY1, had one water solenoid valve only, servicing both cold water and ice dispensers; in the presence of normal water dispenser flow, that meant that the ice maker had failed. Watching several YouTube videos gave me an appreciation as to how easy a replacement would be, so I ordered it from APP, W10882923 (AP6037857), which arrived in 36 hrs. I anticipated removing a hex screw, loosening two others, lifting my unit off of the side wall, and unplugging the 4-pin Molex connector and the Hall sensor. Installation should have been the reverse. Nothing could have been further from reality. In my refrigerator, the mould tray was not suspended from hex screws on the side wall, but was mounted on a plastic cooling tray, the bracket on the left side of which had been slid into a sidewall track, and secured by a release tab. Nothing I did would release that catch and allow the icemaker to be slid out from its installed position. Eventually I located the three hex screws on the bottom of the plastic tray, removal of which allowed me to wiggle the mould tray loose, unplug the wiring harness, and eventually lift it out, though freeing its insertion from the back wall was not easy. At that point, I compared the two units, which had minor differences in materials, but significantly, the new unit had a rotary dial front, compared with the black box front of the failed unit, a larger 4-pin Molex connector, and a differently-shaped Hall sensor, so that rewiring would be needed. I examined the two wiring harnesses supplied, and realized that without being able to release the tray, I couldn't access the back panel of the icemaker enclosure to install either harness, so I took the easy way out: From the end of one of those harnesses, I cut off the five wires emerging from a plastic tube, giving me the makings of a harness for the newer unit, and hooked them up to the 5-wires in the base tray, using butt connectors sealed with Silicone. I made the new harness longer, to allow me to go through the convolutions of reinstalling the mould tray without stressing the connections. This latter maneuver was very difficult because the tray would not drop into place without being pushed fully back, and that couldn’t be accomplished without trimming away the back rim of the water chute, to get it past the feed tube and into its niche. The black fuse on the purple wire, and its clip, also hindered the reseating of the mould tray, so I removed the clip, and allowed all of the wiring to float in the space between the trays. After restoring the power and water, I was delighted to hear the first fall of cubes into the bin in about four hours; by the next day we were back to normal ice production and volume. I must say that had I not been experienced with wiring and plumbing repairs in my house, cars, and boats, this would not have been possible, especially because no instructions were supplied. Also, please note that this particular unit, was in no way an “exact replacement”. I did actually make one phone call to your tech support, to query the pin-out of the wiring for the new Molex connector, which was different from the original; they confirmed my plan.

First, Find and Watch the Video for YOUR unit!! The Ice Maker unit (#17) came as a kit, all you would need despite which production variation you had, the original was an enclosed black 'front box' with the Hall Sensor secured with a screw, the replacement an exposed 'notched gear' front, the Hall Sensor just pushes on, no screw. The replacement unit necessitated a wiring harness change. Not really a problem due to the excellent design of the wiring harness as each connection only went one place. The task is not difficult, Just Patience and Thought is Required. Otherwise, Stop and Look First!! Three difficulties were encountered, 1) the ground terminal on the auger motor base, it is tight, use care, 2) the Ground Terminal Screw, remove the Auger Motor three mount screws which will permit the motor to be lifted and underneath access for a long shank, flat blade screwdriver. Don't Forget to install the three mount screws!!, 3) the Purple Wire Fuse (black plastic) attaching to a clip on the ice cube form, no matter how I positioned the fuse, the ice cube form would not seat, I finally removed the clip, now the fuse just sits with the wiring harness, and the ice cube form then fit as it should with the three screws holes aligning: to the white plastic air vent, the difference about 1/16". Make sure the ice cube form three screws are fully seated as you are cutting new threads, check two-three times checking for movement between the Ice cube form and the white plastic air vent base.

Water was still dispensing from the door but ice maker wasn’t filling with ice. After thawing the entire fridge to ensure the water line wasn’t frozen, and ensuring that the icemaker still cycled, I replaced the water inlet valve but that didn’t solve my problem. I took apart the icemaker and saw that the contact for the ‘controller’ to signal the water for the icemaker was burned and melted. Came to AppliancePartPros to buy a new icemaker that would actually fit my model and that would be a reliable part (ended up with a true Whirlpool part, unlike the parts I saw on other websites where people reported paint chipping off into their ice!). I also saw that you could call if you needed help. The new icemaker came in and I thought it’d be simple to just unplug the old ice maker and plug in the new one, but the wiring harness on my fridge didn’t fit the new ice maker. AppliancePartProa had included two new wiring harnesses with the ice maker (and a new arm which was hidden under some cardboard). Because this job was more advanced than I realized, I called and he looked up my fridge model number and the new icemaker part and sent me a step by step instruction sheet with pictures on how to replace the wiring harness and the icemaker. Reinstalled the icemaker and it works!!! I might have been able to figure out the wiring harness without help, but I probably would have missed a step (like that Christmas tree clip). This company really does offer support on the install for DIYer like me!