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Customer Questions and Answers for Flame Sensor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024891
Manufacturer Part Number: WP338906

The Flame Sensor is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool gas dryers. This component plays a critical safety role by monitoring the presence of the gas burner flame during the drying cycle.

Causes of needing to replace the flame sensor can include normal wear and tear over extended use, exposure to high temperatures or corrosion, or physical damage to the sensor itself.

Symptoms that may indicate a faulty flame sensor include:

  • The dryer not heating or producing heat properly
  • Error codes related to the gas system or ignition failure
  • The dryer shutting off unexpectedly during cycles

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore gas dryer models. 

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Flame Sensor (Part Number: OEM18024891)

Vincent for Model Number Maytag dryer LDG8420

Hello, t My dryer ignited and stayed for 10-15 sec and then is off for several min. and repeat, the clothes did not dry after 2-3 hours. I changed the gas solenoids (from your company) and the problem stayed the same. I took off thermostat and by-pass it. It ignited, but no flames come on (wrose than before, it used to stay for 1-15sec). It seems the problem is not thermostat , can it be flame sensor or gas valve? Please advise. Thanks. he flame sensor will sense the heat from the igniter and allow the gas valve to open. The solenoids control the gas flow, the heat is controlled by a cycling thermostat. Hope this helps!

1 Answer

Hello Vincent. Based on the information you provided, make sure the dryer vent is good and if so, you may need to replace the gas valve on the unit. If the flame sensor was bad, the unit would not lite.

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1 Answer

Hello Jonathan. If the unit is lighting, but not staying lit or re-lighting, and the coils are new, you have a bad gas valve and the gas valve WP306176 will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Warren, When you adjust the temperature from the high temp.(155 dgs.F.) to the low temp. (130 dgrs.F.) It is normal for the flame to shut down, if the drum temp. is higher than the temperature selected. The drum temp then has to expel the warm air, until the temperature drops below the lower temp. (+ 10 % approx., 110 to 115 dgrs.F.) Then the gas valve resets and starts the ignition and heat process all over again. This could take quite some time, with a load of wet or damp articles. Thanks and Good Luck

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Robert for Model Number GGC9858HQ0 WHIRLPOOL DRYER

We checked all the thermostats and the igniter and flame sensor. Everthing tested fine for continuity so we hooked everything back up and low and behold the the igniter stated to glow and flame turned on. About one to two minutes went by and the flame went out. We restarted the dryer and this time the igniter failed to glow and no flame. Can the problem be an issue with flame sensor or one or both of the thermosats or a weak igniter?

1 Answer

Hi Robert. Dryer Gas Coils: Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter MA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Make sure the igniter ohms 50-800 ohms cold part # 279311. Make sure the entire vent system is not kinked and /or restricted. Clean the outside vent hood / cap assy. so it opens and closes on its own 4-5x/yr. The coils will read good and then open under power as all electrical devices can. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Harry, Disconnect one wire and read through it (one terminal to the other). It should read very close to the same reading you get when you touch the test leads together.

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1 Answer

Hello Art, I would check the exhaust duct for restrictions or excessive length. You see, the ignitor is sensitive to excessive heat as is all electrical components. I believe that you will find a crimp, stopped up duct, excessive flex duct behind the unit or a combination of the fore-mentioned. If this doesn't turn out to be the case, re-post and we will happily go further with you.

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1 Answer

Hello Brad. I'd first check the thermal cutoff kit W11050897. If it goes there will be no heat. If this is the issue, you should check the exhaust ducting to ensure there's no restrictions. Also, the high limit W11050897 is in the circuit. To avoid replacing parts that aren't bad, I'll include instructions on test meter use. TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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