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Customer Questions and Answers for Replacement Icemaker by Whirlpool

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4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12405033
Manufacturer Part Number: D7824706Q

The Replacement Icemaker is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool made refrigerators including Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, and many others. It is a component responsible for producing ice cubes or crushed ice, ensuring a constant supply of fresh ice for your convenience. Measuring approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide, this ice maker assembly is made of durable plastic and metal

Symptoms of needing a replacement icemaker include:

  • No ice production or significantly reduced ice output
  • Ice cubes appearing misshapen or clumped together
  •  Leaks or water buildup in the icemaker area
  • Strange noises or grinding sounds coming from the icemaker

Causes of a faulty icemaker can include normal wear and tear over time, water supply issues, clogging or blockages, or electrical malfunctions.

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore refrigerator models.

Please note: that this ice maker is a replacement only and not suitable for add-ons or brand-new installations. It does not include the harness or hardware. For wire harness(Plug)order WPD7813010. For cover order WPW10289690. For shut off bail arm order WP67004028.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Replacement Icemaker (Part Number: OEM12405033)

1 Answer

Hello Joan, replacing your existing ice maker with a new one is simple. Your old ice maker is hanging on 2 mounting screws and has one wire connection. Remove your ice bucket to expose the ice maker assembly. Loosened the mounting screws on the ice maker and you should be able to slide it up and off the screws. Next, unplug the wire connection. Install your new ice maker in reverse order. Note: Be sure to align the fill cup at the rear of the ice maker with the fill tube coming out of the back wall. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. If there is no disconnect on the wiring harness, then you will need to remove the wire connector from the icemaker 4317943 on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Aldo, First off, for maximum ice production, the freezer compartment should never drop below zero. This will cause a long harvest resulting in less ice production. Next, the water pressure should be checked because many water valves that get changed out do not correct the issue. You see, the water valve is closed by the water pressure. If the water pressure is low, it takes the water valve too long to close and the ice maker will over fill. If the water pressure is sufficient and no water supply lines are crimped, the water valve is probably corrupted by sedimentation and mineral deposits, which also will cause it to close too slowly, causing an over fill. There are two water valves on many models. The first is referred to as the filter valve WP12544002. The second valve is usually referred to as the secondary valve 12002193. Most of the time, the secondary valve is the valve at fault, but the filter valve can sometimes be the cause. This is a leap of faith. If you are going to change them one at a time, I would always change the secondary valve first. You can troubleshoot the valves if the model has enough water line from the valve to reach into a bucket. This is the only way to truly test a water valve because the voltage getting to it and the correct resistance in the valve windings do not tell you if the valve is mechanically opening and closing all of the way as they should.

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Aldo for Model Number PSD265LGES

My ice maker is freezing the water in the soft plastic downspout entering the ice tray causing the water to overflow and at times causing the plastic tubing (water supply for the ice maker) to become disconnected from the plastic fitting as the water can no longer enter the tray as the result of the frozen condition and water flows on the floor behind the fridge. At times I noticed that one or two ice cubes do not get ejected completely and get stuck between the ejection mechanism, but I don't know this could be part of my problem. Once I defrost the downspout with an air dryer the ice maker runs ok for a month or two and then the same thing happens. Need help....

1 Answer

Hello Aldo. Make sure the unit is around 0° in the freezer and if so, replace the water valve on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Leonard. If you replaced the icemaker D7824706Q and it does not cycle, you will need to check all connections and make sure the arm is in the on position on the unit. Also, make sure the fill tube is not frozen on the unit.

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Lee for Model Number Kitchenaid Refrigerator Model No. KTRF22MSALYO

This refrigerator was purchased in December 1988. The ice maker does not work. I have checked the solenoid valve and cleaned out some mineral build-up on the screen on the water inlet side. I checked the white gear behind the ice maker cover in the freezer and it is intact. I observed the bail move as if it was cycling but no water is coming in. I disconnected the water line at the solenoid valve and was able to blow through to the inlet tube inside the freezer. The saddle valve on the cold water line in the basement works. What else can I check out?

1 Answer

Hi Lee. Use a volt meter to see if there is 120 vac going to the ice maker. Unplug the ice maker at the back of the freezer wall and see if the connectors from the black and white wire will have the supply 120 vac. Use a volt meter to see if there is 120 vac going to the water valve. Unplug the water valve electrical connection and insert the meter leads tightly. Set it up facing towards the front of the fridge cabinet so you can see it from the ice maker area. Remove the ice maker front cover. Then set the bail arm down. Grab the ice maker stripper blades and gently pull in a rotate effort to start rotation for a regular fill time. Watch the volt meter because for approx. 6-7seconds of the ice maker sending the 120 volts to the water valve. If it does then you may have a bad water valve coil not opening to send the water. Ohm out the water valve terminals for resistance (400-600 ohms). If it is less or open (0-ohms) replace it w/part # 4318047. If you have the voltage to the ice maker but not going to the valve then replace the ice maker. The ice maker is part # 4317943. Thank You

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