Customer Questions and Answers for Ice Maker by Whirlpool

Zoey, you will need to use the manufacturer replacement icemaker suggested for your unit. The replacement icemaker is part number 2198597. Thanks!

Steve, the Q and Q indicate the color of your appliance. From the information given, it sounds as if the water valve needs to be replaced. Your part number is 61005626. Thanks!

Hello Bob, The only thing that will cause hollow cubes is an insufficient water fill. This can be caused by insufficient water pressure to the unit from the water supply, a crimped water line, or a failing water inlet valve. If you check and find good water pressure to the valve, then the valve will require replacement to restore normal operation. The water valve on this unit has been changed during manufacture so the one you need will be determined by the first two digits of the serial number. If your serial number begins with 12 or lower, you will need to order WP67005154. If your units' serial number begins with 13 or higher, you will need to order par number WP67006531.

Hello, The only thing that closes the water valve is water pressure. In light of this information, the first thing I would recommend is to check the water lines for crimps and the water pressure at the valve. If the water pressure is good, the water inlet valve W10833899 is probably at fault.

Hello Tom. See if the gear on the front of the icemaker is broken. If so, you will need to order and replace the icemaker 4317943.

Hello Deb. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the icemaker 4317943 is bad and will need to be replaced.

Hello Maegan, This sounds like the water inlet valve WP67006531 is the component at fault. Before you order one, since the water inlet valve is closed by water pressure alone, you need to make sure sufficient water pressure is getting to the water inlet valve at the back of the refrigerator. If so and there is no crimped water lines, the water inlet valve is going to stop the ice maker from overfilling.

Hello Bob, This sounds like the water inlet valve. There are timed electrical contacts in the ice maker control module, so there is a possibility that you are experiencing a short cycle. Most of the time in a situation like this, the water inlet valve solves the issue. This unit has a primary and a secondary valve. Either one can cause the issue. I would try the secondary 61005626 first and if the problem isn't corrected, replace the primary valve 12001892. The reason for this is simply that you can test the coils on the valves but there is no test to see if the internal parts are mechanically working properly.

Dan, The first thing to check is the freezer door alignment to the cabinet, It must be perpendicular to the refrigerator cabinet. Check and clean the door seal, and make sure theres nothing in the baskets pressing out on the door, or touching the control area. Also check the refrigerator door, and seal,especially the bottom portion and also check the bottom floor of the refrigerator for condensation or water.

Hello Scott, The ice maker is comparable to a control board in the sense that it contains electrical contacts which tell the components what to do and when to do it. It's the ice maker that energizes the water inlet valve. It is entirely possible to have a set of contacts that stick and contacts that are burned enough not to make contact when they close. What I'm doing is explaining to you why the ice maker can be responsible for your failure. In light of this information, you can see why the ice maker is one of the most difficult to understand and diagnose. I would check the water pressure first though. You see, the ice maker only cycles the water valve open for 7 seconds. If you are getting an insufficient water fill, this can also be attributed to a pinched or crimped water line as well as an ice maker contact or water valve failure.