Customer Questions and Answers for Lid Switch Assembly by Whirlpool

Hi James. Lift and support the unit. Remove the belt and then see if the washer runs. If not- did you mark the old lid switch assy mount to the top before removing it ? It is a good practice to use a black felt marker and mark the mounts side and bottom so when replacing the new lid switch, it is placed exactly where the original one is bolted with the 5/16" screws. This aligns the lid switch and the lid lever engagement properly. Carefully lift the lid. At approx. 1" you should hear a click of the lid switch/ lever engagement. Then check at the motor to see if you have 120 vac on the motor blk wire terminal wire to ground. Disconnect the #7 gry wire and the #16 y/blk. wire from the pressure switch and temporarily connect therm together. Now return power and see if the motor runs in spin. Use a same size hose and blow back into the pressure sw. part # 207364 (should be available June 26-July 3) and see if the diaphragm closes and allows the motor to run now. If it runs only when the leads are together then the pressure switch internal contacts are bad. If not then make sure the black wire on the motor terminal has 120 vac to ground , if not then check the wires from the timer and the connections. The pressure switch closes the neutral to the motor circuit when the tub is full. If so then the motor sw. part # 205131 or the motor part # 12002351 needs replaced. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Thank You.

Hello Todd. Check and make sure the lid switch WP22001682 is good on the unit. If so, it sounds like the timer is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

Robin, Are you sure the lid switch is being activated properly at the start of the cycle? The timer uses the same internal contacts in the wash cycle, as it does in the rinse cycle. So the issue should not be in the timer or the motor, at this point. Check and make sure the speed selection switch button is pressed and locked in the down position. If all's OK the issue would have to be in the timer cam wheel riser and you'll need to go with the timer WP22001024 Thanks

Hello Joe. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the lid switch WP22001682 is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit. Hope this helps.

Hello Nila. Make sure the bar is working correctly on the lid switch. If so, you will need to replace the lid switch assembly WP22001682. Hope this helps.

Hello Rider. Check the fuse in the lid switch assembly WP22001682 and see if it is blowed. If so, you will need to replace the lid switch assembly. Hope this helps.

Hello Mark. Looking at the lid switch assembly WP22001682, the check switch or the white micro switch, the double black goes on the M terminal, the white wire goes on the 30 terminal, and the single red goes to 12 terminal. Then on the black lid switch, Double red goes to 12 terminal and double black goes to the SW terminal. Make sure the double black coming from the motor and timer motor is on the check switch and the double black from the timer is on the lid switch. Then the white and brown wire goes to the fuse. Hope this helps.

Hello Shari. Red/black goes to the lid switch terminal labled SW, and red goes to the other terminal on the switch labled 12. Then red goes from SW to UL 12 on the check switch. Then the black wire goes on the M terminal and the white/green goes on the 30 terminal. This is for the lid switch assembly WP22001682. Hope this helps.

Shari, Based on your previous statement "you have to drop the lid to make the washer work" would indicate a problem in the lid switch pluger or actuator, That's the reason for checcking the lid hinge balls and lid for damage. The lid switch assembly on this style washer, is designed to allow the washer to spin and drain, as long as the lid switch is properly activated and has a closed circuit regardless of the fuse or check switch condition. You stated it does nothing at all. If thats the case, you will need to check the timer circuit and voltage from L1 to the SW terminals for a closed circuit with the knob pulled out, and 120 VAC from the SW terminal to the lid switch(the red/black wire) You will also need to check the check switch circuits and wires from red to white/green with the lid open and red to black with the lid down. Good Luck,

Shari, First check the loading lid, make sure the hinge balls are tight and the lid itself is not bent in(concaved). Unplug the power cord, remove the control console(two inner screws on the front corner of the console top) and check and adjust or replace the lid switch assembly. Thanks and Good Luck