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Customer Questions and Answers for Infinite Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part

Infinite Switch

4.89 (64)

By: Whirlpool

Part Number: OEM18150357

Manufacturer Part Number: W10900107

The Infinite Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool cooktops and ranges, designed to control the temperature of the burners. This critical component allows for the precise adjustment of heat levels, providing the flexibility needed for various cooking tasks, from simmering sauces to boiling water.

Causes of these symptoms can vary from electrical issues within the switch, such as faulty contacts or internal components, to physical damage from wear and tear or overheating. It's essential to address these issues promptly to maintain the safety and functionality of your cooktop or range.

Symptoms of a bad Infinite Switch include:

Burners not heating to the set temperature
Inability to adjust the heat level of the burner, resulting in it being stuck on high, low, or off
The burner not turning on at all

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Infinite Switch (Part Number: OEM18150357)

Elmer December 27, 2011 for Model Number KECC501BBLO

I purchased from Appliance Parts Pros four replacement switches, AP3109444 (4391989). Both the old and new switches have five terminals which is good. Not so good is the fact that the terminals are labeled differently -- old vs. new -- so I am uncertain as to which wires go to which terminals. Old switch terminal layout: 4H2 ----- H1 ----- L2 ----- 2 ----- L1 3 ----- New switch terminal layout: H2 ---- P ---- L1 ---- | L2 ---- | | H1 Observations: 1. 4H2 = P, which is the "pilot" light indicating power on or off to a burner. This is about the only thing of which I am pretty certain. 2. The "H" terminal designations have apparently been reversed, and the new switch H1 terminal is rotated 90 degrees from the other terminals. On the old switch there is no "H" in front of the "2." Perhaps this is just shorthand? 3. The "L" terminal designations have apparently also been reversed. On the old switch there is an odd "3" and the end of the lower terminal designation, i.e., "L1 3." Conclusion: I had planned on just moving the terminals from the old switch to the new by placing each wire in the same geographic location on the switch terminals. Then when I realized that the terminal designations were different (old vs. new), I thought perhaps the proper course would be, for example, to move the wires from the old H1 terminal to the new H1 terminal, and the old L2 wires to the new L2 terminal. Since I don't know what is the correct connection scheme, can you help? The very elementary wiring diagrams that came with the cook top originally and with the new switches don't help, insofar as I can tell. Thank you.

1 Answer

Hello Elmer. Yes, you will wire L1 to L1 and H1 to H1 and L2 to L2 and H2 to H2. Then you will install the P on the terminal that is left over on the switch W10900107. Hope this helps.

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Elmer December 21, 2011 for Model Number KECC501BBLO

Kitchenaid Cook-top. Right rear burner switch has failed. Part No. AP3109444 is shown as the "universal" replacement. From the photo, it appears that this switch has either three or four electrical terminals. The original switch has five terminals (in fact, all of the four original switches on the cook-top have five terminals). There are three terminals on one side of the switch and two on the other. Another supplier shows the replacement switch to be Whirlpool Part# 4391989. I have confirmed that that one does have five terminals. Would you please provide guidance since I would prefer, based on past experience, to buy from Appliance Parts Pros? Thank you.

1 Answer

Hello Elmer. Yes, W10900107 has the 5 terminals, and is the same as the part number you provided. It also, is the correct part according to the manufacture. Hope this helps.

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Michael October 02, 2011 for Model Number rs610pxk3

I have ordered this part before and it did not include the shaft adapter even though the desciption says it does, so we could not use it. Is there any way to get the shaft adapter. Thank you.

1 Answer

Hello Michael. The only way to get the adapter is to order the kit W10900107. If your did not come with it, you will need to call our customer service department, and they will gladly help you with this. Hope this helps. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/customerservice/returns.aspx

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Jeffrey September 29, 2011 for Model Number 9114548810

Yes, All infinity switches have been replaced. The terminals have been replaced. Have checked the terminals for continuity. They test good. How do you test for distortion? Thank you.

1 Answer

Hello Jeffrey. You will look for burnt or pitted spots on the element terminals for distortion. If the switch, wires, and terminal block for the element is new, you will need to replace the element. Hope this helps.

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Jeffrey September 27, 2011 for Model Number 9114548810

I replaced the terminal and still having the same problem. The burner will come on and in the HI position will burn for a few minutes and then cut itself off. any other advice? Thank You

1 Answer

Jeffrey, You do realize the infinite switch cycles the power to the burner "off" and "on", even on the highest temperature setting. What terminal did you replace ? and have you replaced the infinite switch WB21X36771 ? and have you checked the element terminals for damage or distortion ? Thanks and good Luck

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Jeffrey September 14, 2011 for Model Number 91144548810

large burners worked intermittently replaced infinity switch still having same problem. am unable to find any high limit cutoff. any ideas would be appreciated.

1 Answer

Jeffrey, Your next check is the element receptacle and wiring on the cooktop. They can weaken and distort and will not continue to make proper contact to the element terminals and you'll get an intermittent burber operation. Good Luck and Thanks

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