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Customer Questions and Answers for Infinite Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18150357
Manufacturer Part Number: W10900107

The Infinite Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool cooktops and ranges, designed to control the temperature of the burners. This critical component allows for the precise adjustment of heat levels, providing the flexibility needed for various cooking tasks, from simmering sauces to boiling water. 

Causes of these symptoms can vary from electrical issues within the switch, such as faulty contacts or internal components, to physical damage from wear and tear or overheating. It's essential to address these issues promptly to maintain the safety and functionality of your cooktop or range.

Symptoms of a bad Infinite Switch include:

  • Burners not heating to the set temperature
  • Inability to adjust the heat level of the burner, resulting in it being stuck on high, low, or off
  • The burner not turning on at all

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Infinite Switch (Part Number: OEM18150357)

Richard for Model Number Maytag # JEC9530ADB

All 5 burners operate, including both modes of the dual heat burner. When the knobs are pushed and turned, all 5 also illuminate the 'burner on' light. However, when the "dual heat" knob is released after turning in either direction, the 'burner on' turns off and the element will not heat. Holding the knob down activates both the 'burner on' light and the element on either mode. Is it safe to assume that I just need to replace the switch? Thank you in advance for your response.

1 Answer

Richard, Yes, you are accurate. The switch is faulty and would need to be replaced.

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Dean P. for Model Number JBP21BY2WH

Need wiring help. The wiring instructions sent were not helpful for the surface switch switch that I have currently on my stove. The current switch has 2 prongs up top and 3 across the bottom, lets call them Prongs A-E. A & B are up top and C-E are across the bottom of the old switch. There are 3 different colored wires that go into the old switch, red, black and white/black. Prong A (up top) is a white/black wire. Prong B (up top) is 2 red wires. Prong C is 2 red wires. Prong D is 2 black wires. Prong E is a white/black wire. Please let me know how I need to correctly wire out this new switch with the existing wires. Thank you for your help.

1 Answer

Hello Dean, The instructions should have never listed wire colors since every model has different wire colors. The way to decipher the wiring on these switches is from the terminal labels. The last thing you want to do is remove all of the wires prior to installing the new switch. This way avoids having to pull the wiring diagram for the unit and trying to make sense of it like ancient hieroglyphics. If you cannot see the labels on the back of the switches you may have to get a flashlight and/or a magnifying glass. The wire that was on P will go to the pilot terminal on the new switch. The wire that was on the L1 terminal will go to the P2 terminal on the new switch. The wire that was on the L2 terminal will go to the P1 terminal on the new switch. The wire that was on the H1 terminal will go on the terminal labeled 4 on the new switch. The wire that was on the H2 terminal will go to the terminal labeled 2 on the new switch.

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1 Answer

Yes Kevikev, W10900107 is the correct infinite switch for your unit and works on either element. You would need four if you replace all of them. Thanks!

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1 Answer

Hello Diva. Install the wires off the old switch to the same location on the new switch W10900107. Example H1 to H1 L1 to L1 Ect..... Then cut the bar the length you need for the knob on the unit. Make sure the power is disconnected before doing the repair.

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1 Answer

Hi Stephen. This symptom can be either the Indicator light assy. part # 8316805 or the infinite switch part # W10900107. Some how you are able to send power to light the indicator light temporarily. Remove the power and inspect all switch connections along with the light body itself. It is shorting out and sending power. I believe it more then likely can be a switch. Use heavy gloves and try to toggle the switches one at a time under power to isolate which switch may be the culprit. Thank You.

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Elmer for Model Number KECC501BBLO

This is the next installment in the continuing saga of replacement of four AP3109444 (4391989) switches on the cook-top. Thanks for the your previous responses to my inquiries. Here's the current situation: 1. I installed the new switches as discussed in previous messages on this forum. For example, wires attached to the L1 terminal on the old switches, were moved to the L1 terminals on the new switches, regardless of the relative positions of the terminals on the old vs. new switch faces. 2. When the control knobs are in the OFF position, the power light is continuously on; and there is no heat at the burners. (Note: To move from the OFF position, the knobs must be pushed in before turning. So, I believe the OFF position is correctly identified.) 3. The dial on the face of the cook-top has the "HI" heat marked at the 1:00 position; and the "LO" heat marked at the 11:00 o'clock position; . That is, turning the knob clockwise moves it from "HI" to "LO" heat, passing through intermediate settings. 4. If the control knob is turned clockwise from the OFF position, the power-on light goes off immediately, until about the "MED LO" position is reached, when the power-on light is lit again. It will stay lit as the knob is turned further clockwise, including returning to the OFF position. 5. On the other hand, if the knob is turned counterclockwise from the OFF position, the power-on light will stay lit, until approximately the "MED LO" position is reached. At this point, the power-on light will go off, and remain off as the knob is turned further counterclockwise, until returning to the OFF position, at which point the power-on light will be lit once again. 6. If left in the "MED LO" position, the power-on light will cycle on and and off, as if it is being controlled by a thermostat. 7. The above described results are experienced with the operation of each of the four controls. 8. There is no heat at any of the burners, at any setting of the controls. Can you help, please?

1 Answer

Elmer, We've got a couple of issues, First, only the right rear and left front can be repaired. W10900107 is the correct switch for these two burners. The right front and left rear switches 3189172 3189169 aren't available and there are no substitutes, If you're installing the same switch kit as the other burners, the unit won't work correctly, anyway. As for the two correct switches operation, sounds more like a wiring issue, Recheck and make sure you have the correct wires on the terminals, and that the switch is installed in the proper position in the console. Good Luck and Thanks

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Elmer for Model Number KECC501BBLO

Earlier today I posted a question, which began: "I purchased from Appliance Parts Pros four replacement switches, AP3109444 (4391989). Both the old and new switches have five terminals which is good. Not so good is the fact that the terminals are labeled differently -- old vs. new -- so I am uncertain as to which wires go to which terminals..." I received an answer promptly, which I very much appreciate. The answer was clearly stated, but just to make sure that I understood correctly, I am following up. (Also, I'm not certain that my diagram made it through the Email system as I laid it out.) As an example, I understood that the wires which are connected to the terminal labeled "H1" on the old switch, should be connected to the terminal labeled "H1" on the new switch -- regardless of the fact that the H1 terminal is in a different relative position on the new switch vs. the old one. And, I can ignore the fact that the nomenclature for the labeling is somewhat different: for example there is no "H" in front of the "2," and one of the terminals is labeled "L1 3" -- on the old switch. In the first instance, it is actually the "H2" terminal, and in the second instance it is actually the "L1" terminal. Thank you for your help and patience.

1 Answer

Hello Elmer. Yes, you will match the number on the terminals and not worry about the old locations of the wires. The numbers are what is important on the install of the switches W10900107. Hope this helps.

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