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Customer Questions and Answers for Infinite Switch by Whirlpool

4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18150357
Manufacturer Part Number: W10900107

The Infinite Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool cooktops and ranges, designed to control the temperature of the burners. This critical component allows for the precise adjustment of heat levels, providing the flexibility needed for various cooking tasks, from simmering sauces to boiling water. 

Causes of these symptoms can vary from electrical issues within the switch, such as faulty contacts or internal components, to physical damage from wear and tear or overheating. It's essential to address these issues promptly to maintain the safety and functionality of your cooktop or range.

Symptoms of a bad Infinite Switch include:

  • Burners not heating to the set temperature
  • Inability to adjust the heat level of the burner, resulting in it being stuck on high, low, or off
  • The burner not turning on at all

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Infinite Switch (Part Number: OEM18150357)

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Elmer for Model Number KECC501BBLO

I purchased from Appliance Parts Pros four replacement switches, AP3109444 (4391989). Both the old and new switches have five terminals which is good. Not so good is the fact that the terminals are labeled differently -- old vs. new -- so I am uncertain as to which wires go to which terminals. Old switch terminal layout: 4H2 ----- H1 ----- L2 ----- 2 ----- L1 3 ----- New switch terminal layout: H2 ---- P ---- L1 ---- | L2 ---- | | H1 Observations: 1. 4H2 = P, which is the "pilot" light indicating power on or off to a burner. This is about the only thing of which I am pretty certain. 2. The "H" terminal designations have apparently been reversed, and the new switch H1 terminal is rotated 90 degrees from the other terminals. On the old switch there is no "H" in front of the "2." Perhaps this is just shorthand? 3. The "L" terminal designations have apparently also been reversed. On the old switch there is an odd "3" and the end of the lower terminal designation, i.e., "L1 3." Conclusion: I had planned on just moving the terminals from the old switch to the new by placing each wire in the same geographic location on the switch terminals. Then when I realized that the terminal designations were different (old vs. new), I thought perhaps the proper course would be, for example, to move the wires from the old H1 terminal to the new H1 terminal, and the old L2 wires to the new L2 terminal. Since I don't know what is the correct connection scheme, can you help? The very elementary wiring diagrams that came with the cook top originally and with the new switches don't help, insofar as I can tell. Thank you.

Answer

Hello Elmer. Yes, you will wire L1 to L1 and H1 to H1 and L2 to L2 and H2 to H2. Then you will install the P on the terminal that is left over on the switch W10900107. Hope this helps.

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Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com   |   Tuesday, December 27, 2011

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