Customer Questions and Answers for Timer by Whirlpool

Hello Donald, This sounds more like the water hoses are connected to the opposite connections from where they should be. Try swapping them and see if this cures the issue as the majority of the machines fill with cold only for the drain cycle.

Dan, Disdconnect the air dome hose from the water level switch, Check and make sure there are no twists or kinks in the tube, then blow into the end of the hose, and clear any debris or deposits that may have formed in the hose. WP21001748. Also, check and make sure the drain hose is at least 38 inches high from the floor . Thanks and Good Luck

Hello Cheryl! You could have a water valve WP21001932 or a pressure switch 21001882 problem. The easiest way to verify which one you will need to replace is to start a wash cycle and unplug the unit when it is filling. If it continues to fill, replace the valve. If it stops filling, replace the pressure switch. Hope this helps, thanks!

Hello Bob. Check and see if the washer is filling up with hot water, but when rinse comes, the cold water is not working. If so, you will need to replace the water valve WP21001827 or WP21001932 depending on the serial number on the unit. Hope this helps.

Hi Yousef. The power cord comes in the back and feeds the timer itself directly. Remove the back panel and carefully examine the wires to see if you have a loose connection. The power cord is part # 21001883. Look at the timer connector carefully, if it has loose connections or visible burn terminals. Lastly, your power is controlled by the timer part # WP21001522. Thank You.

Hello Sherri. You will need to test the lid switch 12001187 and make sure it is reading closed for continuity with the lid closed. If not, it will cause the problems you are having. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Ian, I'm pretty sure it's more than a slipping belt, You also need to check the motor and transmission pulley WP21001950 for distotion and "burn/melted" spots, make sure the motor tension springWP22004376 is installed proper and maintains tension, check the motor for free movement on the motor slide plate. Remove the transmission "thrust bearing" pulley and assembly 12002213 for excess wear and distortion, If theres damage to it, the tub will not reach the proper hi spin speed RPM and you'll have the symptoms you described. Good Luck amd Thanks

Roberta, First, check and make sure the drain hose is not kinked or clogged with debris. Open the lid and check for a small article stuck at the top of the spin basket and the tub cover, or between the tubs. Unplug the power cord, and slide the washer out, a few inches from the wall, use a putty knife, press in on the spring clip in the seam between the top and the front panel and pull up on the corner of the top, and raise the top all the way up and lean it against the wall. Remove the two hex head screws holding the front panel to the cabinet support brace, and remove the panel.Lower the top back down on the cabinet and raise the front of the washer, and block it up with a block of wood, remove the belt, and check for excess wear or damage to the belt. check and turn the pump pulley,in the right rear corner of the base, make sure it is not sticky or stuck, it should turn without much exertion. check the motor and pulley for damage and that the motor moves freely on the motor plate. If all is good and there are no abnormal noises in the spin cycle, you'll need a thrust bearing kit 12002213 and belt WP21352320 Thanks and Good Luck

Hello. Ian. You will need to turn the large pulley under the washer and see if it is releasing the brake assembly by hand. If not, you will need to replace the thrust bearing assembly 12002213. Hope this helps.

Court, You most likely have a bad bypass circuit in the timer, and will need to replace it. Thanks and Good Luck