Wall Sensor Parts

Watched a video. Ordered a thermistor. Made the fix. $100 total including expedited shipping. Diagnosing the problem was more stressful than fixing. Read more

• Won't start

I first verified the house panel circuit breaker was not tripped. It wasn't so I removed the bottom kick plate of the unit, using a circuit cricket I verified the power feed to the unit was live. The bottom kick plate had a trouble shooting guide in a plastic sleeve which I opened and reviewed. Based on information in there it appeared the TOC was likely the issue. (We recently lost power and used a stand by generator. Previously when we did the the dishwasher had a blinking LED on the... Read more

• Won't start

My friend researched online what would make a dishwasher just stop working, no power. The person on the you tube video showed how to first start with the thermal fuse. Then searched online for the thermal fuse. You had the part for a small price. I felt it was worth trying to see if that may be the issue. IT WORKED!! I was without a dishwasher for over a year, was planning to by a brand new one but for $23.00 now have a working dishwasher!! YEAH! Read more

Did continuity tests on the sensors, till I figured out what one was bad. Read more

For several months we could smell a slight odor of propane in the laundry room and wondered why, just didn't seem like it was enough to be overly concerned, but thought something must be wrong with the dryer, but it was still working. We just didn't know how inefficiently. Then the extra time it took to dry a load of clothes progressively seemed to get longer, but things still seemed to work fine and the clothes got dried, given enough time. Then approximately 3 weeks ago we noticed the dryer... Read more

• Fridge too warm

The defrost heater element looked good and had continuity. The defrost thermostats checked good, so that just left the Defrost Module as the likely suspect. I installed a new defrost control module and thermostats. The thermostats were inexpensive and the old ones could have been intermittent, The only "tricky" part was finding out how to get to the back screw that holds the main control panel. Discovered that the return air duct surrounding the control panel needed to come off. It helps... Read more

Performed diagnostic tests. Had code for no heat. I performed a continuity check on the element and found it to be bad. I replaced the Heating Element per the video directions they provided on their website. I also replaced the Hi-Limit Thermostat since I was in that area already. The dishwasher is repaired for a fraction of the cost of what I would have paid a repair person to do the work. Read more

Replaced defrost sensor in freezer compartment, if you are handy this is a do it yourself job. The cover in the freezer section just pops out not tools needed. You will need a few small zip ties and some cutters to remove the old zip ties. Take a picture were the old sensor was before removing and reinstall in the same place. I used a meter to check continuity of the defrost element and found the element to be ok. I was quoted $85 to have someone come to the house just to check the unit and... Read more

I found a few videos on YouTube about other dryers that gave me enough information to figure out my own. I was able to pull out the heater element and replace it with a new one that arrived the day after I purchased it. I also replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat. Read more

Tested upper thermostat for continuity and had none. Cleaned exhaust of excess lent. Changed cycling thermostat and cutoff terminal. And now she works great. Read more

• Fridge too warm
• Fridge runs too long
• Freezer not defrosting
• Freezer section too warm

My GSS20IETD BB side-by-side refrigerator had been having the ice form into a single mass over a period of a week after cleaning it out. It actually kept breaking my ice maker auger and pushing the slide-in tray or shelf over the ice maker up breaking it also. Frost would form all over food after about a couple of weeks. The ice auger motor would freeze up and stop turning. The coils did not have frost on them when I was able to view them. I replaced the thermistors in the freezer, defrost the... Read more

Replaced thermistor Read more

• Oven is too hot
• Little to no heat when baking

I was able to find the model number on the lower right hand side of the range/oven, a GE True Temp. I Googled it to find parts, and thought I had found the correct sensor, but was very pleased that the ApplianceParts sire suggested I check compatability again before the order. I would have ordered the wrong sensor kit other wise. I DID get the correct one order. It arrived on time. The tricky part was get the old sensor out without having to pull the oven/range combo out form the wall over... Read more

With the door latch. Easy fix. Unplugged the bad one and plugged in the new one. Longest time was getting the screws out and screwing them back in. Read more

After doing some research the problem appeared to be the door safety switches. I ordered 3 new ones to replace all the original ones. Some minor disassembly of the microwave front was required to reach the fuse and switches. To reach the switches the control panel wires needed to be unplugged and the panel removed. After doing that replacing the switches was pretty strait forward. As of this comment the microwave has worked for 5 days without blowing the fuse so far. This has probably fixed the... Read more

The F9 error code is supposed to indicate that the door lock mechanism has failed. My oven would give the F9 code and turn off during normal baking at 400 F after about 30-40 minutes. It turns out that GE must have programmed the error codes incorrectly in my model, because the real problem was that my control board cooling fan was no longer functional, and one of the two thermal switches was shutting off the unit when the control board area got too hot. AppliancePartsPros.com is one of the... Read more