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Dryer won't start or smells like burning? A melted or loose terminal block where the power cord connects is often the cause. Easy 20-minute repair.
Let me tell you that the videos made by AppliancePartsPros.com are what I needed most. They are simplified and complete. It turned out that because of a loose connection at the power terminal block, it over heated, melting the block and of course frying the wiring and distorting the connections. The erratic power supply must have damaged the control board. I ordered the terminal block and control board and although a little time consuming for a rookie, I got it working first time. I actually... Read more
Seals front and rear tub halves to prevent water leaks. Replace if you notice leaking during wash cycles or after bearing repair. Verify fit with your model.
I watched the video posted by Jerrod Sessler on yellow van handyman.com. Then I had to unstack the dryer from the washer, remove all covers, disconnect all hose connections, shock mounts and springs and remove the tub assembly. Then I disassembled the tub assembly and remove seal and both bearings from the rear half. At this point I cleaned everything. I installed new bearings and seal, installed the basket and assembled both tub halves using a new gasket and silicone, and reinstalled the... Read more
Connects washer outer tub to drain pump, channeling water out during drain cycle. Replace if cracked, leaking, deteriorated, or damaged by pests.
Simply open the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife (watch YouTube ) and then the front panel by removing two bottom philips head screws on the front. The whole front panel comes right off. Using pliers the spring clams holding each hose, they come off and each hose is replaced. The drain one was only leaking but since it has open I changed both and even the drive belt. Whole job less than 1 hour. BTW parts arrived next day! Read more
Secures the washer's inner basket to the drive hub, keeping the tub centered and stable during spin. Replace if cracked, corroded, or bolts are damaged.
The seal at the bottom of the tub had started to fail. On large loads water would leak so I ordered a new one rubber seal. Getting the trunnion off the transmission shaft was hard as it was calcified and corroded. I used a wire brush to get some of it off and then used a lot of WD-40. The bolt holding the trunnion plate on sheared off when I tried to remove it on one side and the other came out ok (the bolt hole through the trunnion is not threaded so it should slide out once the plate is off... Read more
Seals between the outer tub and splash guard to prevent leaks during wash and spin cycles. Replace if water leaks from the top of the cabinet. Confirm fit by model number.
I tore into the washer until i found what i thought was the problem which was the upper outer tub splash cover gasket and when i couldnt find one in my town i ordered a new one from u folks and replaced it hoping for the best and was successful. This fix costed me $35 instead of the $400+ for a new washer glad i looked into it instead of discarding it and buying a new one as most may do thanks Read more
This is a factory switch used in the appliance's control/safety circuit. Replacing a worn or failed switch restores reliable signaling so the selected function engages properly and the unit responds consistently to user inputs and status conditions.
I removed two sheet metal screws to remove the panel above the washing machine lid. That exposed four more phillips drive sheet metal screws, after removing those the dashboard control panel is held by two smaller black screws slightly recessed in the lower corners. This allowed the panel to be pulled down from the top, revealing the back of the switch. At this point I took a picture of the wiring connections with my cell phone to make sure I put them on the new switch in the same... Read more
Dryer overheating or taking too long to dry? This control thermostat regulates internal temperature by cycling the heater on and off. Easy replacement.
I replaced both thermostats, the seals and the heating element and the belt. It's an easy job to keep my dryer last longer. Read more
Replaces damaged or burnt-out dryer interior light assembly. Restores visibility when door opens. Includes bulb and socket. Verify fit by model number.
Installed new Asmy-Lamp and added new wire connectors to harness. Read more
Dryer won't turn off or advance cycles? This control timer regulates cycle progression and automatic shutoff. Moderate DIY repair restores timing.
Replaced timer. Read more
Metal heat deflector that mounts near the dryer heating element. Replace if warped, cracked, or damaged to restore proper heat distribution and protect wiring.
Our dryer stopped heating. My husband changed out the entire heating element and replaced the baffle heater since it had warped. He put it back together and it is working beautifully. The videos provided by the website to help fix the problem are outstanding. Read more
Washer won't start or advance to spin cycle? A broken lid strike prevents the lock from engaging. Simple 5-minute snap-in fix—just remove two screws.
It took less than 5 minutes to fix it. It was very simple, the part fit perfect. I will keep this web site in my favorites for later use. Read more
Secures the dryer door to the cabinet and provides a smooth pivot point. Replace this hinge if bent, worn, or broken to restore proper door alignment.
Interior drum baffle that lifts and tumbles clothes during the drying cycle. Replace if cracked, broken, melted, or missing to restore proper tumbling.
Replaced heater. Read more
Ceramic dryer heating element housing insulator.
This dispenser valve assembly controls water flow to the fridge door dispenser for reliable dispensing and shutoff. It replaces a failed valve to restore proper water delivery and stop unwanted dripping or leaks. What it does
It is a simple fix with removing the old by disconnecting connecters to the solenoids. removing two screws, disconnect the hoses entering and leaving the dispenser. Installing it is simply a reverse of the removal. Total time was certainly less than 30 minutes. Read more
This is a small C-clip or retainer ring that secures the idler pulley to its bracket on a laundry center. It keeps the pulley in place so the drive belt maintains proper tension against the drum. Replace this ring if the idler pulley has come loose, the drum belt slips or falls off, or the dryer drum does not spin properly.
Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
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