Customer Questions and Answers for Ice Maker Assembly by Whirlpool

Lebrun, For this issue, you will want to test to see if the water valve is getting 120 Vac to it when the icemaker calls for water. If not then the icemaker would be the issue and if there is then the issue will be the water valve.

Jeff, I can relate to what you are going through in getting this icemaker out. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and insert it into the plastic cover on the left side of the housing, push down to release the cover, unplug the connection. Now, push the tab that holds the icemaker and pull the entire icemaker assembly out, it can be hard to remove, it should come out, it takes some effort to get it out. Good Luck!

Rudy, First, make sure the freezer door light switch is pressed in or taped closed. When the freezer drawer is opened, power to the ice maker is eliminated, so there is no operation or chance of spillage. When you test the ice maker, with the door switch taped shut, the N(neutral) opening is in the 1 o'clock position, and the L(line voltage) is at the 7 o'clock position. Make sure yo insert the meter leads deep enough into the holes, to make contact with the internal connection inside the control head. You can also use a 4 in. 14 awg insulated jumper wire, remove 3/4 in. of the insulation from both ends, and insert the ends into the T and H openings (4 and 5 o'clock) hold it there until the arm starts to rotate and reaches the 9 o'clock position, then remove the jumper wire, and allow the ice maker to perform the test mode, to see what does or doesn't occur. Please remember to include the model number of the refrigerator if you should need more assistance. Thanks,

Hello Amanda. Make sure the freezer is between 0° and 5°. You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Rick, Yes there is a mold heater in the base of the ice maker, but it is only energized for a minute or so " the mold temperature must drop to around 15°F before the thermostat closes. This assures that the water is completely frozen before the ice maker attempts to eject the ice. The closing of the thermostat energizes a mold heater and starts the icemaker motor. The purpose of the heater is to raise the temperature of the mold above 32°F. Eject- With the mold heater energized, the ice in the mold begins to melt, freeing the ice from the mold. At the same time, the icemaker motor turns an ejector blade which lifts the ice out of the mold and dumps it into the ice bucket." In the few minutes it takes the ice maker to complete the cycle, there shouldn't be enough heat generated to melt the cubes in tyhe bin and produce a puddle of water. We're thinking when you check the ice maker you'll find that the ice maker is over filling, or the fill valve isn't closing completely and water is "dripping" into the ice maker and down into the bin and freezing. That's more common than an overheating ice maker.

Hello Mark, This will be a bad cycling thermostat WP627985 in the icemaker assembly. You will also need the thermal mastic 5303307896 for this parts' installation.

Hello Scott, You will need to order the icemaker cycling thermostat WP627985 and the thermal cement WP4317852.

Hello Kenn. You have to remove the ice bin. Then insert a screwdriver into the cover on the left side and release the tab and slide it off the unit. Some have 1 screw that has to be removed on the cover also. Once removed, unplug the wire and release the locking tab and pull it out of the unit.

Hello Kevin. Make sure the freezer is between 0° and 5°. You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Jim, To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx