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Connects the outer tub to the drain pump in your washer. Replace if cracked, leaking, punctured, or worn. Includes check ball housing for proper drainage.
Took the old part off and fitted the new one. I used the old plastic ball from the old hose and it worked fine. Next time I would replace the original clamp with a 4 inch hose clamp. The original clamp is way tooooooooooo hard to put back on....with a different clip it would be a 10 minute job at most. Read more
Replace your washer's drive pulley if worn, wobbling, or has damaged mounting flats. Installs on the tub shaft to transfer belt motion to the drum.
I pulled the unit away from the wall and noticed black dust on the floor. Unplugged the unit, turned off the water. Removed back panel (about 10 screws with Torx heads) and noticed the belt was off, the drive pulley was loose and wobbling on the shaft, black dust all over the inside. Belt was worn along one side. Some grooves/damage in the outer drum casing around the pulley where it appeared the belt had rubbed. Removed the lower crossbar (2 more screws) to get better access to the drive... Read more
This water inlet valve controls the flow of hot and cold water into the washing machine tub during fill cycles. It is an electrically operated solenoid valve that opens and closes based on signals from the control board or timer. Replace this valve if the washer is not filling with water, filling slowly, leaking from the back, or continuing to fill when it shouldn't.
Water became visible as it accumulated at the bottom rear part (the part that is tilted back) of the washer drum. I theorized that the valve controlling water flow into the machine was to blame. I began my troubleshooting by going to Appliance Pros website where I looked for a Water Inlet Valve. I easily found this on the exploded parts diagram. After identifying the part that seemed to be the issue, I began reading other reviews from folks who were experiencing the same problem and who solved... Read more
This motor control board regulates the washer's drive motor, controlling spin speed and direction during wash and spin cycles. It is typically mounted near the bottom of the washer behind the front or rear access panel. Replace this board if the washer won't spin or agitate, stops mid-cycle, or if the motor runs erratically or not at all.
After much reading on line regarding my problem. I decided to do any test that I could to try to diagnose and fix this myself if I could. This took a lot of time and patience to get the answers on how to go about this from "experts" as some of the info was contradictory. I was almost about to give up and buy a new washer with less electronic parts and buttons as advised by an honest appliance technician . I tried one more thing first which was to disconnect the lead wires connected to the MCU .... Read more
The Spring Tension Hose Clamp is an OEM part for Whirlpool washing machines. It is designed to secure hoses in place, preventing leaks by maintaining consistent tension on the hose connections.
Over time, spring tension hose clamps can lose their effectiveness due to metal fatigue, corrosion, or damage from frequent tightening and loosening. This can lead to leaks and improper hose connections.
Symptoms of a bad spring tension hose clamp include:
This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.
Took off cover, installed new parts. Read more
The Drain Hose is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool washing machines. It connects the washer tub to the drain pipe, facilitating the drainage of water after a wash cycle is complete.
Causes of a bad drain hose can include regular wear and tear, blockages from debris or lint, cracks or splits due to aging, or damage from improper installation or handling. A compromised drain hose can lead to water leaks and drainage issues.
Symptoms of a bad drain hose include:
This hose did not just attach to the back of the washer--that would have been too easy. This hose went into the back of the washer, under the tub & attached to the pump at the front of the washer. Both the back & front of the washer had to be removed to access the hose. Luckily the crack was at an external spot where it was easily seen; unluckily my husband was out of town at the time & I had to take the washer apart & put it back together. Actually it was not that hard. Before I took the... Read more
Fix F30 error codes and non-dispensing detergent drawers. This dispenser motor assembly controls detergent release timing. 30-minute DIY repair with video.
My appliance is a Kenmore, and even though the video mentioned lots of other brands, it showed the exact same problem I was having. My dispenser motor just spun and spun, never stopping at the various positions it was apparently supposed to. Then it would trip the F30 code. The part description again mentioned these other brands but did say in fine print it fits some Kenmore products. I could tell visually from the video the part was the same as on my washer so I felt confident the part... Read more
Replaces a cracked, broken, or missing washer drum baffle. Installs inside the wash basket to lift and agitate clothes during the wash cycle.
I called parts pro and they had my part and sent it right to me I am soooooooo happy with this company they are amazing. I only ordered 1 baffle and now I'm calling them to order the other 2 baffles. Thank you so much for your help and service. Read more
The Shock Absorber Kit is an OEM part for Whirlpool washing machines. This kit includes 4 shock absorbers designed to reduce vibrations and absorb shocks during the washing and spinning cycles, providing stability and minimizing excessive movement of the washer drum.
Causes of a bad shock absorber can include wear and tear from regular use, exposure to heavy loads or unbalanced loads that put excessive strain on the absorbers, or damage due to impact or mishandling.
Symptoms of a bad shock absorber kit include:
I tube what could be the cause. Took apart the washer and ordered the parts. Put parts in. Read more
Rubber vent hose that connects the wash tub to the dispenser, allowing air circulation. Replace if cracked, leaking, or detached from the tub assembly.
Removed the leaking hoses and seal. Installed the new ones. They all fit perfectly. The disassembly/reassembly of the washer took the most time. Read more
This rubber seal fits around the detergent or fabric softener dispenser housing on a front-load or top-load washing machine. It creates a watertight barrier that prevents water from leaking out of the dispenser area during wash and rinse cycles. Replace this seal if you notice water leaking from the dispenser, see visible cracks or deterioration in the rubber, or find detergent residue building up around the dispenser housing.
I ordered the dispenser and the distribution nozzle since the old one was in bad shape. I also replaced the boot since I had to take the entire machine apart and it is 20 years old. I watched your videos on you tune to learn what to do. I recently lost my job and really could not afford to hire someone to fix my washer. I have to say it wasn't that hard to do and my wife was so happy that I was able to fix it myself! I probably saved $200 or $300 in service calls and labor on top of what they... Read more
Suspension spring kit for washers. Supports tub weight and absorbs vibrations. Replace if springs are broken, stretched, worn, or missing. Includes 2 springs.
First remove the back from the washing machine. Top of the machine came off simple. To replace springs, I took a crow bar but it on the right side underneath where one of the springs should be. Lift the tumbler up remove and replace the spring. Did the same thing to the other side. On the tumbling unit there are spaces for three shock absorbers. Mine only had one shock in the middle. I put two new springs, one in the front and one in the rear. Then I replaced the right side spring with two new... Read more
This switch monitors water levels in the washing machine tub and signals when the correct amount has been reached. Located near the control panel or top of the washer, connected to a pressure tube. Replace when the washer overfills, underfills, or won't start filling with water.
I was searching the web for solutions and came across two folks who had similar trouble code. One fixed his by removing the pump strainer from the pump to find coins blocking water flow, thus the analog water pressure sensor provided a failure response. My issue was solved by following the other hints I got. I ordered a new sensor (switch). It was expensive for what it is, but the washer will not run correctly without it! The part arrived in a very timely manner, and it was the right part.... Read more
Size: 5 foot long. Rubber fill hose used on most automatic washing machines. Two hoses used per machine.
Replaced flow meter and control valve Read more
This locking nut is used for many purposes on a range of machines including household appliances. This nut is often used for leg leveling for machines. It will help with vibrations from washers and dryers. If the nut is used for this purpose and goes missing or becomes damaged, it could cause the machine to vibrate more and seem louder.Nuts are made from metal and are built to last a long time. However, there can still be issues that arise. In some cases, the nuts might go missing if they become loose and the machine is moved. They could also corrode over time and need to be replaced. The replacement of the nut is typically a fast and simple repair.The nut is a genuine OEM replacement part sourced from the manufacturer. It can work with washers, dryers, and combo machines, and is compatible with models from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and Roper. The part is sold individually. Owners may want to have several on hand.
Replaced 2 springs and brackets. Also replace rear legs and front legs and re leveled. Works fine. Read more
Routes wastewater from your washer to the household drain. Replace this hose if cracked, kinked, clogged, or leaking at connections to restore proper drainage.
Prior to ordering parts I had pulled the pump strainer basket and cleaned it out. There was both soft and hard scale build up. The tub-to-pump hose was also pretty crusty/slimey. Still got warnings for SUDS and repeated F02 errors. Ordered parts and replaced the pump, tub-to-pump hose, interior drain hose and exterior drain hose (both hoses has some slime build up). The water standing in the tub when I emptied it the first time had very little suds but we kept getting the SUDS warning. ... Read more
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