Wt-R857 Parts

The fix was so easy 2 screws and done, the part i ordered came the following day, i didnt expect it to arrive for another 3 to 4 days, excellent service , shipping, recieved the correct parts, and they have everything in stock, i would recommend Appliance Parts Pros to everyone, you wont be let down, believe me, thank you for the fast service, i give them 10 stars, Read more

• Will not stop filling with water

I replaced the water level switch and hose. After removing the hose, I found that it was clogged, and did not allow the water level to be sensed by the switch. A test after the replacement of the parts was successful. While filling the tub, the water shut off at the small, medium, and large levels as indicated by the switch. Read more

I pulled off the retaining clip with pliers then removed the old knob and timer dial. I replaced all the parts with the new ones and used pliers to reinstall the clip. The teeth on the new knob engage to select the cycle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQwLtRcHx9k Read more

• Will not drain

Replace the drain pump after watching a video demonstrating the process. The washing machine had run properly and emptied, so I was surprised how much water remained in the pipe after disconnecting the old pump. Plan on having 2-3 large towels underneath before removing it. The most difficult part (and most irritating) was replacing the intake and outtake hoses with the existing spring clamps. The drain hose into the pump took almost twenty minutes to attach properly. If the hardware store was... Read more

• Spins slowly

With more difficulty and frustration than expected but it works fine now. Things learned: 1. Order only 3 replacement pins. One comes with the shocks that you can't be sure you see in the picture. 2. A circuit board in a plastic box mounted to the floor, left rear, must be removed by two screws to be able to get pliers onto the head of the pin more easily. This helps installation too. 3. A 1/2" deep socket pushed onto the retaining tab of the pin stays there while you pull with pliers from the... Read more

Washer would run through the cycle, but not agitate. I had to wait for it to pump down the water level to check spin, which also was not working. The motor would buzz when it should run, but not rotate, hard to hear for spin because the pump was running. Found I could start it by hand very easily by giving the pulley a spin, so I figured start switch, but there didn't appear to be one. I found what looked like a start capacitor zip tied to the chassis midway up the front, so my second guess was... Read more

The video was very helpful. the hardest part is getting off old rusted parts. I had to use a hacksaw to remove one of the old clamps. I had to open the bottom of the washing machine to remove of the other clamp. Putting the new parts on was easy. Getting everything apart was a challenge. Putting the new parts on was an easy 5 minute job. Read more

• Won't start

All I had to do was remove 3, 1/4" screws from the back and take the front off. Two 5/16th screws hold the circuit board in place, remove them and press the button into the hole from the back. Replace the circuit board, slide the front back on and install the three 1/4" screws. Always unplug the washer first! Read more

I have a 14 year old GE washing machine that had been making a lot of noise while running but had eventually just stopped flat. The agitator and spin cycle would not run. I found this site and made excellent use of all the repair videos to study about my issue. I put in my machine model number and I Immediately was able to start honing in on what my problem could be from website advice about popular repair parts, stories others had shared about their similar machine issues and watching videos,... Read more

Planning to spend hundreds on a new washer and was pleased to discover the agitator coupling was the only thing wrong. Very easy repair. The only additional feature we would have liked was a softener dispenser. Located a GE model of the same genre that used the same coupler and took the leap to get the agitator and dispenser cup for this model (WJRR4170). Replaced the old agitator with new one and dispenser cup. Worked perfectly! We now have a washer with dispenser that works great and saved... Read more

• No hot or cold water
• Will not stop filling with water
• Will not fill with water
• Leaking

This is my third repair of this type. The first was a stand-alone washer and was very easy, because there was a plate on which the inlet valve assembly was mounted, and it was easily removed. This repair was on a Frigidaire stacked washer/dryer (laundry center). Stacked washer/dryers are typically purchased to save space and are often tucked into a closet. Be sure you can pull it out to access both front and rear. Remove drain hose from drain, detach water hoses, electricity and dryer vent... Read more

• Shakes and moves

With more difficulty and frustration than expected but it works fine now. Things learned: 1. Order only 3 replacement pins. One comes with the shocks that you can't be sure you see in the picture. 2. A circuit board in a plastic box mounted to the floor, left rear, must be removed by two screws to be able to get pliers onto the head of the pin more easily. This helps installation too. 3. A 1/2" deep socket pushed onto the retaining tab of the pin stays there while you pull with pliers from the... Read more

I replaced all 4 suspension rods and springs and now it spins very smooth. They weren't broken, just badly worn. It gave new life to my 15 year old GE Profile washer. They are basically springs, so they wear after a while. It was well worth the hour I spent fixing it. You need a good long reach to get to the back 2 and you have to take off the dampening straps and the control panel so you can gain access. All in all, I'm happy with the repair, although I though that these parts are bit... Read more

Motor control board was flashing 4 times, indicating that the mode shifter had an error. I disconnected the mode shifter's wire from the controller and measured the resistance between the 2 leads with an ohmmeter. Since the reading was infinite, that meant that the mode shifter coil or in-line thermal sensor was electrically open, i.e. bad. As this fix is near a complete tear-down of the washing machine, here are a few tips I discovered. 1) the hub nut is difficult to remove and you need a... Read more

Replaced springs and shocks. Read more

Replaced lid switch and lid magnet. Took just a little longer then 20 minutes as I had to splice in the new lid switch as it wasn't one that was a clip in, it was hard wired in. Read more