Vince V Benson , AZ March 03, 2019 Severe banging during spin cycle With more difficulty and frustration than expected but it works fine now. Things learned: 1. Order only 3 replacement pins. One comes with the shocks that you can't be sure you see in the picture. 2. A circuit board in a plastic box mounted to the floor, left rear, must be removed by two screws to be able to get pliers onto the head of the pin more easily. This helps installation too. 3. A 1/2" deep socket pushed onto the retaining tab of the pin stays there while you pull with pliers from the other side. 4. The pins are too big to fit into the shock holes but compress to proper size when driven in. 5. I used a sticky grease (common name "gas grease" available at Aircraft Spruce Aircraft Parts supply online) to coat the pins before installation. 6. A 10mm deep socket fits nicely inside the head of the pins for using a long 3/8"s extension to drive them in with a light hammer. 7. Use a 1/4" socket on a drill to easily spin out the feet. I replaced the thin 3/8"s locking nuts already on my feet with the regular ones sent with the shocks. 8. With the back panel off, the washer cabinet warps to an uneven floor making it very difficult to replace the rear panel. For that reason, I used a level on the floor where the rear feet would end up to determine where the feet should be locked. 9. I assumed 24 threads/inch for the feet/nuts. Therefore, 1 1/2 turns = 1/16". I then locked the rear feet in place before replacing the rear panel. 10. The drive belt is the same as the original made in Brazil. Using a zip tie to hold it in place, like the video showed, was a super idea making installation possible with a good bit of muscle. 11. Shim the cabinet to make it square by lining up the rear panel screw holes. Replace the rear panel. 12. Reattach the water hoses and slide the washer into place. 13. Use a level front to back and side to side to adjust the front feet and lock them into place. 14. Replace the front panel. 15. Plug 'er in and thank Jesus that you're not washing clothes in a stream in Nicaragua like I have personally witnessed. <>< Read More... 89 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 1-2 hours Tools: Adjustable Wrench, Nut Drivers, Pliers, Socket Set
James S Winchester , TN April 29, 2023 Appliance: Frigidaire Washer ATF7000EG0 No error codes; just lots of noise and movement After a few days of our 16 YO Frigidaire Affinity front-loading washer (model ATF7000EG0) dancing around the room bellowing like an elephant in musth, I decided to fix it. Well, technically, my wife decided I would fix it. I postulated that the OEM tub suspension system was rapidly deteriorating, so I ordered the shock absorber kit (5304485917), three nylon pins (131268300), two suspension springs (134362800), and a new drive belt (134051003) for good measure. These parts all arrived in three separate orders on three consecutive days. The executive summary is “I fixed the problem.” The details are a little more involved. Yes, John’s shock absorber tutorial is extremely helpful, but not completely accurate. Accessing both shock absorbers through the back panel on this model is not possible, so plan on removing the front panel, too. The video on replacing the drain pump (AP5684706) shows how to remove the front panel. The driver’s side shock (that is, the left shock) can be pulled through the back panel but replacing the lower (left side) nylon pin is easier when done from the front panel. The right-side shock cannot be pulled through the back panel without removing the motor control board (134743500) which, of course, can’t be done without disassembling the outer drum and drive motor. With the front panel removed, the right-side shock can be accessed; but on my washer the detent end of the lower nylon pin cleared the motor control board heat sink by a scant two millimeters. So, a half inch socket could not be pressed on the pin to depress the detent. Instead, I used a long shank flat screwdriver in my right hand to push in the detent on the pin while my left hand pulled the pin with a pair of pliers. Okay, that was not easy to do (but no turning back by then, so I finished it). The remaining three nylon pins could be removed with a half inch socket depressing the detent as suggested by John in the video. Matt’s suspension spring replacement video is accurate. A Phillips-head screwdriver and a length of rope (I used parachute cord) are the only tools needed. The tub assembly weighs probably 50 pounds, so a strong back is recommended. A wife willing to risk fingers can help with guiding the new spring hook into the slot. Replacing the shocks and springs required about three hours for this backyard mechanic. I suppose someone more familiar with dissecting the front and back panels could move faster. Overall, the job was moderately easy to do. Any toolbox contains the necessary tools. Parts and videos from AppliancePartsPros made the DIY work possible. Read More... 8 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 2+ hours Tools: Pliers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Helmut D Rancho Palos Verdes , CA April 20, 2020 Appliance: Electrolux Washer EIFLW55HMB0 E21 water not pumping out fast enough (eiflw55hmb washer) Replaced pump. All components are accessible from the front of the machine. You have to remove two screws in the back that hold on the top cover, then slide the cover back. This will allow access to the screws that hold on the control panel. Remove the control panel (unplug cable), then remove the spring/wire that holds on the door bellows to the front panel (removing and installing that is the most difficult part of the job) and carefully remove the bellows from the front panel. Then remove the screws holding on the front panel and carefully remove the front panel. You can now see all the components. My machine was 10 years old, so I also decided to replace the tub-to-pump hose, and the door bellows seal as well as the drum dampener pins and two of the dampeners. When replacing the bellows, also ordered the back spring and the front spring/wire, mine were badly rusted. There are several YouTube videos that show how to remove the front of the machine (look up Electrolux door seal (or bellows) replacement). Note, my front panel was attached with square drive screws. You can get those bits at most home centers. If your machine is older, I recommend opening the machine before ordering any parts, so you can see if you will require any additional parts to repair other worn components. The actual pump replacement is easy. The door bellows and spring re-installation is the most challenging part of the job. Read More... 21 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 1-2 hours Tools: Nut Drivers, Pliers, Screwdrivers
David S Summerfield , FL August 22, 2020 Broken shock absorber. Purchased the shock absorber kit and a couple extra pins. Your repair video was spot on. Since we don't do this every day it took us about 1-1/2 hours but with the video it went fairly smoothly. Will certainly look here for all appliance parts in the future! Read More... 6 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 1-2 hours Tools: Pliers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Beth T Piedmont , OK April 03, 2022 Both shock absorbers were broken. Using the videos for shock absorber replacement and the suspension spring replacement. We spent less than an hour removing and replacing both sets. The washer is now quiet and sounds new. Read More... 2 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Adjustable Wrench, Pliers, Socket Set