Kenmore / Sears Range Parts

• Touchpad does not respond

$4 part and a little time saved $250 if I had had to replace the whole plug-in duel burner unit for our Jenn-Air range. Spade that was replaced fed both burners, other two spades just one. If your burners do not turn on, check the spades before you replace the coils. Read more

First, I took an ohm reading across the elements and determined the bad one, which was failed, open circuit. (Zero continuity) I then replaced the lower heating element of the upper oven. Although the design of the oven and element make it appear that it will just drop down and slide out the front, this is not quite the case. There is not enough clearance for it to drop all the way down. You have to pull the entire double-oven unit out of the wall, separate the upper and lower halves a few... Read more

I purchased a new elelmnt and fixed it myself!! Read more

• Shakes and moves

REPLACING THE SUSPENSION PADS AND REPLACE THE BALNCE RING EVEN IF MY DIDN'T LEAK ANY FLUID OUT OF IT... IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM, IT WORKS BETTER NOW THAN IT EVER DID, THE ONLY THING I COULD COME WITH IS THE MANUFACTURE PUT THE WRONG BALANCE RING IN IT TO START WITH... MY IS A 400 KENMORE TOP LOADER, IT IS THE EASIES WASHER I HAVE EVER TAKEN A PART.. I WISH CARS WERE THAT EASY... IT TOOK ME OVER A MONTH FIGHTEN THIS PROBLEM UNTIL I FOUND IT ON YOUTUBE... WHAT BLESSING IT WAS... Read more

Found a hole in the burner tube next to the igniter. Replaced both igniter and burner. Very easy repair. Works great now. Read more

• Element will not heat
• Won't start

Turned off power supply. Removed two screws (near the oven door) holding the ceramic top. Slid the top forward, disengaged the two power supply cables, and removed one ground wire. Removed range top, and put on a flat surface. Unclamped two power supply wires, one ground wire and one thermocouple wire from the element. Unscrewed the bracket from the element, and remove the element from the range top. Remove the two clamps from the old element, and put them on the new element at the same... Read more

After doing some research the problem appeared to be the door safety switches. I ordered 3 new ones to replace all the original ones. Some minor disassembly of the microwave front was required to reach the fuse and switches. To reach the switches the control panel wires needed to be unplugged and the panel removed. After doing that replacing the switches was pretty strait forward. As of this comment the microwave has worked for 5 days without blowing the fuse so far. This has probably fixed the... Read more

• Noisy
• Tray won't turn

I fix this problem by purchasing a new turntable motor. Simple 5 minute installation. Read more

Tested the power to the unit by turning on the cooktop portion and saw that I had power to all of the burners. Turned the selector knob to broil and saw that the top element would heat up. I then turned off the breaker to the unit. I then decided to take out the baking element to do a continuity test. When I touched it, a 1.5 inch section fell out. Since that concluded my continuity test, I assumed I needed a baking element. After receiving the parts the NEXT DAY (amazingly great service... Read more

Replaced the oven burner, ignitor, and the safety valve. Read more

We ordered a igniter and a new regulator. My husband installed the parts it works great now. Read more

DIY. The delivery to Milwaukee took two days. The project was very easy and took about 1hr. The only tools required were a screw driver (electric) and a pliers. Just make sure your irganized with the screws so you don't lose any or mix up which ones go back in which holes. There's about 20 total screws. This $50 part saved me from having to buy my wife a $1000+ oven. Read more

I tried swapping the cables around by putting the cables from the burners that would light onto the ones that didn't light. When I did that the problem would move. So this is how i determined that the issue was with this module and not the burners or cables. Once this new module arrived it was simple to disconnect the old one and put the cables back on the new one. I tested it (holding by breath!) and then all of the burners started. HOORAY! Read more

I'm a 56 year old divorced woman. I started doing these kinds of repairs to save some money and honestly, to see if I could. So yes, if I can do it, it's not that tough to do. My microwave is built in above the stove - getting it down and back up was the hardest part of the job. An extra pair of strong hands really helps-for anybody, not just a 56 year old woman. The actual repair was pretty easy. Most likely problem was pretty obvious after a little research. Easy to take off cover, get... Read more

• Takes too long to dry

Get some acetone at a Hardware Store before you start. A pint will do. Unplug the dryer from 110 VAC. Pull the top off of the dryer, by lifting it from the front first. It is attached with snap metal fittings. Do not completely remove the top, just tip upright to gain access to the front interior of the dryer. Before you pull any wires from the door switch, record which color wires go to which terminals on the door switch. If you reassemble the connections incorrectly, the gas value will... Read more

The F9 error code is supposed to indicate that the door lock mechanism has failed. My oven would give the F9 code and turn off during normal baking at 400 F after about 30-40 minutes. It turns out that GE must have programmed the error codes incorrectly in my model, because the real problem was that my control board cooling fan was no longer functional, and one of the two thermal switches was shutting off the unit when the control board area got too hot. AppliancePartsPros.com is one of the... Read more