Range / Cooktop / Oven Switch
Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X10087
This switch latch secures the appliance door and engages the door switch so the unit operates only when the door is closed, helping restore normal start and safety interlock function. What it does:
- Replaces a worn or broken latch that prevents the door from fully engaging.
- Allows the door switch to activate so the appliance can start or run.
- Commonly used when the door won't stay closed, the unit won't start, or cycles unexpectedly.
- Fits the original mounting points and engages the existing door switch mechanism.
What's included: One switch latch. Install notes:
- Disconnect power (unplug or shut off breaker) before beginning any work.
- Basic hand tools are typically required; handle sharp edges carefully.
- Verify replacement part number matches the part being removed before installation.
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$50.76
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$56.37
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$5.61
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Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X10160
$25.54
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$31.65
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$6.11
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Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X403
$57.95
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$67.65
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$9.70
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5195
$25.54
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$32.99
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$7.45
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5209
$90.95
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$101.21
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$10.26
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5210
$89.95
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$105.31
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$15.36
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5328
$36.44
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$42.01
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$5.57
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5350
This oven light switch is a direct-replacement control that restores the oven's interior light operation, letting the light turn on and off from the console. Designed to match factory fit and function for simple repairs. What it does:
- Completes the oven light circuit when pressed so the interior light turns on
- Replaces a worn, stuck, or unresponsive light switch that prevents the lamp from illuminating
- Stops intermittent or flickering light operation caused by a failing switch
- Provides the same user feel and mounting as the original black switch
What's included: One oven light switch (black) Install notes:
- Disconnect power to the appliance before starting any repair to avoid shock
- Access typically requires removing the control panel or console—use appropriate screwdrivers
- Handle electrical connectors carefully; ensure tight connections before restoring power
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$10.38
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$11.42
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$1.04
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5351
$17.95
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$20.36
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$2.41
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Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5355
$27.48
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$33.83
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$6.35
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24X5356
$94.43
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$122.19
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$27.76
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB27K5050
$45.36
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$55.25
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$9.89
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB2X8617
$28.95
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$54.56
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$25.61
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Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB8M338
$11.78
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$14.55
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$2.77
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Genuine Samsung part
By: Samsung
Part Number: 3501-001154
Genuine Ge part
By: Ge
Part Number: WB24K5078
This surface burner valve switch mounts on the gas valve stem and signals the spark module when you turn the knob. Replacing a faulty switch restores consistent clicking and reliable ignition on the affected cooktop burner. What it does:
- Mounts to the surface burner gas valve and closes the ignition circuit when the knob is turned to Lite
- Sends power to the spark module to create the clicking needed to ignite the flame
- Symptoms may include: burner won't spark, intermittent ignition, continuous clicking with knobs off, or a burner lights only when another knob is turned
What's included:
Install notes:
- Disconnect electrical power and shut off gas supply; allow the cooktop/range to cool
- Remove the knob and front panel or manifold cover to access the valve area
- Note wire positions, transfer the wires to the new switch, and secure it on the valve stem in the same orientation
- Reassemble, restore power and gas, then test burner ignition
Do-It-Yourself Stories from Customers like You
Clicking from ignitor mode would not stop after burner lit Jeffrey Maclachlan V. • Nederland , CO • September 03, 2017
Turned out the little switches on the knob shaft had corroded and were staying on. There was constant continuity showing with an ohm meter. Replacing the switches was very easy (always disconnect power to the unit before servicing). Bought a new ignitor module as a backup as they do go out of production after 10 years or so- another cheap and easy fix if needed in the future.
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