Roper Range / Cooktop / Oven Switch

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

The fix was to replace the infinite control switch on my Whirlpool range. A simple task. Read more

• Element will not heat

Replaced the burner Infinite switches for the burners having the issue. Here are the latest part numbers for this model Maytag. Left rear (LR) and right rear (RR) burners are both 6" and use the same switch. Part # WP3149404. Left front (LF) is an 11 1/2" burner Part# W10167742. The right front (RF) burner is a double burner 6" center and 9 1/2" outside burner Part #WPW10149355. Very simple repair. Unplug the stove, remove the rear panel, remove the switch knob, remove the 2 switch screws,... Read more

• Will not drain
• Pumps but will not spin
• Timer will not advance
• Doesn't shut off

The lid shut-off switch is located behind the lid How About That. I order the plastic ball the hold the lid in place plus the lid shut off switch. I watched the video that AppliancePartsPros.com has on how to replace the lid and the plastic balls. I removed the lid to get to the two philips head screws to remove that part of the shut-off switch. I took the new switch out of the package and compared it to the old switch. I assembled the switch just like the old switch look using the new... Read more

I first diagnosed the problem by replacing the burner control (Infinite switch) with one from a smaller burner (one that I knew worked fine). That seemed to solve the problem. I ordered the correct control for the big burner on Saturday night, it arrived Tuesday and installed it in less than 10 minutes using only a Phillips screwdriver. Remember to unplug the stove before performing any service. Take this time to clean around and under the stove. (You know it needs it!) Read more

I replaced all 3 remaining burner controls because they were all original (mid 1970s GE electric range w/coil burners), and one of the controls occasionally made arcing sounds when cycling the burner on and off. If a control is making odd noises - more than just a quiet metallic clicking as it cycles - it should be replaced. I'm assuming you have experience with the tools needed and can do simple mechanical assembly or disassembly, but have not previously worked with electrical equipment of... Read more

Replaced the switches. Read more

I ordered the correct part from AppliancePartsPros.com. When I received it, I opened the package and identified the parts I would need for my application. I cleaned up around my work space, then turned the power off to the appliance. I removed all the burners to get to the mounting screws for the range top. I then lifted the range top and supported it so I could see what I was working on . I first inspected all the wiring for breaks, or fraying. Then I moved on to the switch. Two screws... Read more

I'm a 56 year old divorced woman. I started doing these kinds of repairs to save some money and honestly, to see if I could. So yes, if I can do it, it's not that tough to do. My microwave is built in above the stove - getting it down and back up was the hardest part of the job. An extra pair of strong hands really helps-for anybody, not just a 56 year old woman. The actual repair was pretty easy. Most likely problem was pretty obvious after a little research. Easy to take off cover, get... Read more

• Won't start

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" &... Read more

First and foremost I UNPLUGGED THE OVEN!. I'll pass on the early morning SHOCK THERAPY! Second, I unscrewed aluminum protection plate from back of oven. Next, I unplugged the two connections behind the oven switch. Then I removed the plastic switch from the front and unscrewed the two screws that secured the oven switch to the oven. Once you've completed all these steps you take your new oven switch and do everything again but in reverse order. Hope this was informative, direct, and that your... Read more

First check to see how many leads your switch has before ordering - I ordered before I took things apart, and got an incorrect 2 lead version when I needed a 3. On starting the repair, at first thought I might have to take apart console - but happily, no. After turning off power, just carefully pried the old switch out (putty knife to depress plastic clips above & below), pulled out gently (not much slack on wires) and removed the old wires by gently easing them off the broken switch with a... Read more

Removed rocker switch,made up jumper so the compactor could be used while awaiting replacement switch. The part came 2 days later and was installed in less tha 5 minutes. Unit working like new again. Thanks for the great service!! Read more

Slid the oven out. Opened the control panel. Shut the power off. Replaced the switch. reversed the steps. Read more

• Won't start

I installed two burner ignitions under the knobs then installed a new spark module, which I had to order from a different vendor as this is a 20+ year old Caloric stove. Fortunately this spark module is used in many other appliances. Read more

Removed old switch and replaced it with the one that was shipped. Read more