Kudw2frss1 Parts

I ordered the Maytag Latch-Door mechanism and was able to get a service manual from appliancepartspros.com. I followed instructions, disconnected power FIRST, and removed the inner door panel screws and the inner and outer doors came apart. I was then able to disconnect the power leads to the electronic latch door mechanism and remove the whole assembly. The assembly was loosely attached to the inside of the outer door by plastic posts and squeeze levers. I compared the OEM part with the... Read more

This was a difficult problem to diagnose. Because the machine would start the wash cycle then shut down after a few minutes of running, it appeared that the cause might be a bad thermostat or heating element, but all checked out ok. That led me to believe that the control panel may be the culprit but it also appeared to be working correctly when I ran the diagnostics program. A visual examination of the components found that the door switch electrical connections looked discolored, so I removed... Read more

After reviewing the other repair stories related to this "7 blinking light" syndrome, I contacted their support staff via Chat. I relayed my symptoms along with model number of dishwasher. She indicated that this would normally mean an issue with either the heating element, the high limit thermostat, or the control board. Since the control board was so expensive and (luckily) out of stock, I ordered only the heating element and the thermostat. After pulling out the dishwasher and removing... Read more

The odor in the dishwasher was due to scum buildup in the walls, the racks, and in the lower part of the drain below the lower rotating arm. One of the valves in the vertical tube was stuck in the open position; since the valves cannot be replaced, the entire tube needed replacement. The check valve probably needed no replacement, but once I opened the bottom part, I decided to replace it anyway. I used this Youtube video to replace the tube, open and clean the drainage part of the washer: ... Read more

Repair was easy. Just slotted the new parts in and they fit and worked fine, Read more

The odor in the dishwasher was due to scum buildup in the walls, the racks, and in the lower part of the drain below the lower rotating arm. One of the valves in the vertical tube was stuck in the open position; since the valves cannot be replaced, the entire tube needed replacement. The check valve probably needed no replacement, but once I opened the bottom part, I decided to replace it anyway. I used this Youtube video to replace the tube, open and clean the drainage part of the washer: ... Read more

Replaced filter. It works great now, no more brown spots. Read more

First tried replacing the seal around the door as that was the simple and most logical fix. Still leaked. Removed the front and upper panel to inspect. Found calcium deposit running down from under the Air Vent Assembly and wet behind the black stick-on insulation. Easy to trace the leak to the bottom of the door. => Ordered new Air Vent Assembly, gasket and Vent Deflector. Parts arrived. Took 5 minutes to remove upper panel. Removed the two wires from the Air Vent Assembly. Inserted a... Read more

Screwed the new spray arm on. This dishwasher has been through 2 control panels, a spray arm, rack roller assembly, rollers, and far too much of my time, patience, and money. I'll never purchase another KitchenAid product. Read more

Easy fix. simple assembly Read more

I finally bit the bullet to order a new silverware basket as the bottom plastic was broken and forks and knives would slide through. Appliance parts pros had the very best price anywhere and the basket came in speedy record time! Read more

I replaced the seal which turned out to be a little tougher job than it was supposed to. Small screws and very limited space to get into. Use a magic nut driver or something to hold the screw. Read more

Tried bending the strike to get a firmer grip, but no luck. Replaced the door latch and strike. Washer is about ten years old. You can feel the new catch has a more positive engagement. When you replace the strike, be sure not to tilt it downward in front. It will go in the way but it will keep the door from closing. Not sure I needed to replace the strike but didn't want to risk more downtime. Read more

I replaced the rear tube that feeds water to the top and middle spinners, and this appears to have fixed the problem. The middle spinner, which is attached to the bottom of the top rack, has a tube that connects to a hole in the middle of the rear tube.This hole has a rubber flap and I noticed that this flap was wide open. The tube under the tray has a straight edge protruding from it at the back. This edge pushes the flap open and I suspect that when the water is flowing, this edge rotates... Read more

We initially noticed the dishwasher running loud and failing to completely clean dishes. Research suggested issues like this were normally caused by either the main circulation motor or the drain motor. Over the next week the noise worsened, and it became obvious that the circulation motor had went (loud whirring noise whenever the spin cycle kicked in). I watched a couple youtube videos on the removal and dissassembly until I felt confident that my wife and I could handle the project. For the... Read more

We scoured the web and there are few references to this so I want to add it in case it helps. Replacing hinges solved the popping opening issue. We could not solve our dishwasher door issue after a number of other tries: Latch, Catch, Ropes that attach to the springs that pull the door closed. I tend to believe the solve could be different b/c all these things work together. But for us, we were skeptical that the hinge swap would work and we were very pleasantly surprised. Read more