Frigidaire Control Panel Lcd Parts

• Frost buildup
• Fridge runs too long
• Freezer too cold
• Freezer not defrosting

My problem first showed up as varying temperature in both sections of my old mid 1970’s Frigidaire model FPCI-170T-7 refrigerator, which is not listed on most appliance repair databases. Running on the warm side from time to time, as well as sudden fan noise (probably the fan blade hitting ice build-up on the evaporator coil) alerted me to a possible defrost system problem, since the compressor was cooling. The evaporator fan eventually failed after a day or so, and a major repair was... Read more

So I look up on the internet and search for Frigidaire then your ads comes up: AppliancePartsPros.com. Search was easy, put the model number, enter, then the picture comes up & question ask: where do you think the missing/ broken parts that what you need the location at. Very easy! Then I ordered the parts and I got it in 2 days!.. Wow..! After I put it on, my Fridge look like brand new. Thanks AppliancePartsPros..! Read more

• Too warm
• Fridge runs too long
• Fridge too cold
• Frost buildup

A word of thanks to AppliancePartsPros - they delivered in one day. Ordered at 4PM CDT and received the part by noon the next day. Also, Alicia in the help department was able to locate an electrical diagram for my old freezer. This was essential for proper setup and her persistence in tracking down the diagram was top notch. Now on to my problem. One day I opened the freezer and found frost and thawing food. I attributed this to the door hitting an item in the freezer and not completely... Read more

Suspected it was the thermostat, since temperature stayed the same at multiple settings over a 24 hr period. There was only three components inside the freezer besides the evaporator, the fan was working, so I decided to just go ahead and replace the thermostat and defrost thermostat. Also replaced the defrost timer by the compressor, just to get all the old parts replaced with new. I had already replaced the compressor, so now I've pretty much have a new freezer. The new parts works great and... Read more

I first felt along each heating element (bake and broil) hoping to find a rough or blistered place on them. But they were both smooth with no irregular places. (replacing the elements would have been the easiest and cheapest repair. Pulled the back off the range (unplugged, of course) - checked wiring. There were no loose connections or burned wiring. I disconnected the elements and checked them with a ohmmeter (VOM) and both had continuity. Discovered that both elements used the same... Read more

I researched online and found that it was probably one of two things wrong: the heat probe or the control board (clock). Since the probe was less expensive, I ordered that on Appliance PartsPros. It arrived SO quickly, and with the repair video I easily replaced it. BUT... it still got the F10 reading. Sigh. So I found a local appliance repairman (I didn't want to replace a more expensive item if it turned out I was wrong). He was a good one: he listened to my story, said he was sure it was the... Read more

Looked up the model number on the internet, found a diagram on AppliancePartsPros.com which led to part number for the user interface, also found "how-to video" on-site that included how to remove user interface panel. When the part came it was an easy fix, remove defective user interface panel - remove 2 screws mounting lip, then remove 2 screws mounting panel, unplug 4 connectors in back, plug connectors into the new panel, mount new panel, and re-mount lip. Less than 10 minutes, the panel... Read more

I first felt along each heating element (bake and broil) hoping to find a rough or blistered place on them. But they were both smooth with no irregular places. (replacing the elements would have been the easiest and cheapest repair. Pulled the back off the range (unplugged, of course) - checked wiring. There were no loose connections or burned wiring. I disconnected the elements and checked them with a ohmmeter (VOM) and both had continuity. Discovered that both elements used the same... Read more

This was a 2000 model so rather than just replace the defrost timer which was visibly burnt on the terminals, we just did everything. The cold control, defrost timer, thermostat, defrost heater and the compressor capacitor were all replaced. I had the same issue on my older unit and tore it apart replacing one item at a time over a three month period so on an older one i suggest do it all while it is apart. Read more

After reading through a few forums, I narrowed the problem down to one of 3 issues, the door latch, the switch assembly (control panel), or main control board. I rolled the dice on the switch assembly first. The main reason I did this was my belief the door latch was okay and because the main control board is more expensive. The removal and install of the switch assembly was pretty easy for me, and I would expect for most people that know how to use a screwdriver. When I removed the old... Read more

I removed to the cover to the coil, defrosted coil with a heat gun and checked the heater strip resistance. I set timer to defrost by hand to make sure everything was working. There was damage to the temp control sensor. Both parts were on your web site at a good price, ordering was easy. The parts were in the mail two days later. A screwdriver and nut driver were the only other tools other than a multi meter. Parts installed in five min. I had the option of talking with a pro !!! Read more

I first checked the power , we had 220 volt at plug, I removed the back of the stove, checked things out , I found that the stove top burners still worked and the oven light worked. I tested and found that we had current to the timer and clock but nothing on the control worked to set the time, or to turn the oven on or to set the oven temp. I ordered this part on June 30th and received the next morning. I disconnected stove from electrical plug. Be Sure to unplug the stove for your... Read more

Just removed from front and the console. I wound up replacing the control board because the technician that I had come out said that's what was wrong and it would cost $250 to fix. I replaced the control board and it didn't fix the problem. After doing more research and searching out the error codes, I discovered I had to replace the console. so i did. I was able to return this control board and buy the console. That return policy was fantastic. I was so worried I was going to have to eat the... Read more

I went to appliancepartspro.com and found out that the problem could be the main circuit board. I went on and ordered the part, knowing it could be returned if necessary, but it was like music to my ears when I installed the part, myself, and turned the power back on. Easy. Thanks appliancepartspro. Read more

Replaced the oven controller. This needed the only removal of six hex screws securing the back guard rear shield, two-wire plugs on the control unit, and four Phillips screws. All are easily accessible. The only difficulty came from an apparent model design change that separated the control unit and the overlay - the labels for the control buttons (items 20 and 20a in the backyard parts diagram). Mine is a single unit (the overlay could not be removed without damage) led to the assumption that... Read more

Unplugged stove. Removed six 1/4 inch socket head screws from back panel. Removed back panel. Removed plug on the back of the OCB. Removed OCB. Used Philips screwdriver to remove four mounting screws (and cracked pieces of the mounting holes). If you can get to this point, installing the new OCB is pretty self explanatory. Read more