Kenmore / Sears Cooktop Parts

Easy fix. Both elements replaced while I was at it, so all new. Figured if one went the other was going to follow. CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF. Removed the back metal panel with my nut driver for the hex head screws. Note where the panel may slip under tabs for support. Remove slip on electrical connections on upper and lower elements. May need a pliers. (I did not want to just pull the element and the wires into the oven with the element and remove them there, like a technician would do. After 15... Read more

• Element will not heat

Replace burner and receptacle. The product arrived promptly after order and the receptacle came in a factory Whirlpool bag, indicating it was a genuine Whirlpool part. The burner did not have such identification, but works very good. I've placed 3 orders with these folks for various broken appliances, and each one has worked as advertised and performs like new. Read more

Once I watched the video on your site about gas line install, it became apparent why the line bent when I raised the lid.. also discovered those two rods have nest to go into and the lid/top now sets down tight as designed ( and as an added bonus, gas smell disappeared during oven use) I ordered the gas lines with the model number, ordered all four …. it was a bit of a chore one came up when site opened I picked it, but did not know if it was the RH or LH etc.. so reading some of your answers... Read more

• Door won't close

My dryer door would not stay shut because the door strike was stuck in the door catch. I was afraid that when I pulled the strike out, it would damage the catch, so I ordered the door strike and door catch. I got the damaged door strike out with needle nosed pliers in about 15 seconds. The door catch was in perfect condition so I didn't need to use the one I ordered. So then I proceeded to install the new door strike. That took me about 15 minutes because I did not have the manual strength to... Read more

GE Microwave/Convection Oven. Removed case (carefully). Tested in-line power cord fuse with multi-meter. Fuse was good. Noticed a scorch mark on a wire connected to the oven cavity thermal fuse. The fuse appeared to have been overheated from too much movement in it's mount. Removed part from unit and used number on the part to order a new one. Installed new part, re-assembled, and unit works fine. Read more

I just plugged in a replacement light bulb. Couldn't find one anywhere else but from you folks. Read more

Replaced with new part Read more

• Element will not heat

Ordered a new terminal block kit from Appliance Parts Pros. Shipping was lightening fast. Slapped the new part on my stove and its never worked better. Thanksgiving was saved! I'd replace the rest of my stove's terminal blocks if they weren't $50 a piece...sheesh! Read more

Ordered replacement parts Read more

• Won't start

I purchased a new igniter for the bake assembly and found that it, unfortunately, did not resolve my problem. I measured the resistance of the different points on the gas valve and it was reading within spec so I then purchased this spark module and it did the trick. My gas range is a Kitchenaid kgsk901sss02. I had a LOT of trouble finding where the spark module is located, and eventually found a schematic that shows it's location behind the front control panel of the oven. Upon taking the... Read more

Ordered correct replacement parts (your online form helped to identify correct valves 2 had black dot on inside stem for back small burner 1 had red dot for larger front burner). locked stove, turned off gas, unplugged cord. removed knobs, 5 screws and front plate also removed L shaped plate below knobs for better access to comp. fittings. pulled off ignitior controls loosened compression fittings (hard to get wrench on nut but doable), removed screw holding valve to manifold. reversed order... Read more

I replaced the large surface element first before examining the switch. In hindsight I probably only need to replace the large surface switch. Once I open the back of the control area of the stove the blacked switch and wire made in obvious that the trouble was in the connection and switch. Luckily, I had a new contact to rewire the wiring as the old was burnt badly. After cutting it out and connecting a new one and replacing the switch the problem was fixed. Read more

I had to order the glass, frame, and cap that the handle attaches to. I just had to put in about 6 screws, it was very simple. Read more

Replaced switch with a new one. also replaced the 4 knobs Read more

Replaced two switches that controlled two front burners. One controlled three different burner sizes options in one burner. The other was the speed burner, basically three different burner options in one burner. Read more

Removing was easy. Pull out the ends of the seal, the ends aren't locked in. Then, pull up on each retaining clip. Each clip is held in with spring tension. Reinstallation was easy too. Start on one end, Twist frayed end into cone-like shape and insert into one of the holes for the seal. Push in with a skewer/screwdriver. Insert first clip into the first hole. Go around in a linear fashion, inserting each clip into each hole. After the last clip is pushed in, twist the end of the frayed end... Read more