Customer Questions and Answers for Control Module by Frigidaire

Hello Ryan. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the control module 154712101 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

Hello Rena, The first thing that you will want to do is to check to make sure that you do not have any loose or corroded wires. If all connections are good then the control board 154712101 would be at fault.

Hi Ron. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet control panel or in the toe kick panel to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. From the description you will need to replace the control module part # 154712101. Thank You.

Hi. Turn the breaker. Remove the lower toe kick panel. Remove the junction box cover and inspect the wires for correct tight connections. If they are not twisted together tight under the wire nut then it cannot pass the needed current demand. You may see burns on the ends of the wire where arcing has occurred. Then carefully look at the wires under the tub area. I have seen plenty of times where the wires coming out from the door are frayed or shorted against the metal frame creating a short. Look there to see if any varmits have chewed open any wires as well. Make sure all 4-legs touch the floor or the full - heated tub will cock and misaligned the door latch. The incoming feed wires pass through the door switch part # A00099902. If it is cocked to one side then you will have intermittent issues. Open the inner door and see if the door switches work well. They feed the control panel part # 154712101.t will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Thank You.

Hello Nick. Test for power to the motor. If there is power there and the motor does not run, replace the motor. If there is no power and the wires are good, replace the control module. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Robert. Check and make sure the drain hose is not clogged and if not, you need to test for power coming to the drain pump on the unit. If there is power there, and the hoses are clear and the unit does not drain, replace the drain pump on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Evan, There is an overload built into the circuitry on the motor. This is normally tripped by a poor connection or any other situation which could cause an over current situation. Possibilities include but are not limited to a bad breaker in the breaker box, insufficient wiring, poor connection at the wire nuts for power supply hook-up behind the kick panel, shorted wiring harness or a component that has shorted. This will take some troubleshooting to locate.

Hello Steve, The clean light blinking 7 times is a fault code for the water heating circuit on board the unit. If the control doesn't see a predetermined increase of temperature in a set amount of time, the code will flash. First off, be sure you always run the hot water at the sink before starting a cycle to shorten the wash cycle. The most probable cause of this fault code is the heating element going open. Other possible causes are the door switch WP8269209, the control board WP8564543, the Hi-limit thermostat WP661566, and the wiring harness. Of course the first thing I would recommend is to visually inspect the heating element Heating element kit- This dishwasher heating element is for stainless steel tubs only. Includes a new computer board that needs to be replaced along with the element. For plastic tubs use W10518394. Part Number: 8194200 . If it has burned in to of course it will need replacement. If there is a white place, or much lighter place present it will need to be tested to ensure your not replacing a good part. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html . The wiring diagram should be found behind the kick panel and will guide you to the fore-mentioned components which you may need to test. After repair you will also have to place the unit into the diagnostic mode to reset the control so it can run through cycles again. This procedure is as follows: On the control panel....heated dry,normal,heated dry,normal - OR - High temp,air dry,high temp,air dry. These keys must be pressed within 10 seconds to set the control into diagnostics. At this point you can allow it to go all the way through the self-diagnostic cycle or you can press cancel.

Hello Philip. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the motor assembly 154859101 may be bad and will need to be replaced. If the motor is just humming and is not running, it does not sound like a control issue, it sounds like a motor issue. Make sure nothing is inside the sum assembly blocking the motor on the unit.

Hello Victor. No, you will need to replace the control module 154712101 on the unit. The shaft is not available separately. Hope this helps.