Customer Questions and Answers for Door Lock Spin Enable Switch by Whirlpool

Joe, We would need a model number to properly assist but in generally if the unit is not filling then you will want to check the screens on the water valve to make sure that they are not clogged with debris. Double check the water supply to ensure that you have water coming to unit and that it is on. Check power to the water valve to make sure that the water valve is getting power when the unit is turned on. If there is no power then you will need to check the control board or timer to make sure that it is sending 120 vac to the water valve and if not then replace that part. You will need to access the wiring diagram in the control panel to do testing.

Hello Joe. It is part of the latch assembly [22003593].

Hello Jerry, This sounds like possibly a bad connection. I would remove the cover between the washer and the dryer at the top of the washer and push in on all of the wires in the harnesses on each side. If this doesn't correct the issue, you will need to pull the tech sheet and follow the wiring diagram to troubleshoot the out-of-balance circuit. You could also check the machine control board for burned components. This is the board in the top right hand corner of the dryer. It is mounted in the dryer, but controls the washer operation. Let us know if further assistance is required.

SP, The buzzing/humming sound in the rinse cycle is most likely a clogged or defective fill valve 22002294 or 22002558 (depending on serial number. This slow fill or no cold water fill, can and does distrupt the timer cycle. The no spin, could be due to an inoperative spin enable switch WP22002162, but you need to verify, that the door does lock and stays locked after the first few minutes orf the cycle. If the spin enable switch is not a "closed" circuit wwhen the door is locked, the washer will not spin.

Hello Jim. You will need to test and see if the switch is bad, or if the door lock motor and control board is bad and needs to be replaced on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Rosie, The unit shutting down, is most likely due to a loss of an input signal from one of the components, or a damaged control board WP22004325 located in the left front corner of the dryer cabinet. As for the door not locking, again it could be due to a control board issue or a faulty door lock wax motor 12002535. We will be sending you some information that should be helpful.

Hello Tim. You need to check and make sure the spin switches in the unit are good. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Del, With no door lock light you need to open the control panel and look at the R-11 resistor. It is close to the center of the board and is listed on the board as R-11. If this resistor is burned, the board will have to be replaced and the wax motor will have to be replaced to prevent the board from failing again. Warning: If you replace the board only, the machine will work a few times but the resistor will burn off of the board again. For a 10 series the machine control board part number is 12001725. For a series 17 the machine part number is 22002988. To determine the series number, look at the serial number on your unit. The first two digits of the serial number is the series number. To determine which board you need as an example, a series 16 would use the 12001725 as a series 10 board. If the first two digits are 17 or higher it will use the 22002988. If this confuses you and you would like us to assist you we will be very happy to do so. Just give us a call. Phone: 1-877-477-7278.

Hi Thanh. Examine the front door boot part # 12002533 for interior fold rips (caused by overloading). The outer door boot clamp is part # WP22002327. Feel the complete front door assy part # 22003083 to see if there is any debris stuck on the inner door holding the door boot from sealing properly. If the water valve solenoid is bad allowing the water to come in slowly, it will leak. Pull the top off. Remove the tub fill hose off the back of the pressure switch. Blow back into towards the tub. Did you feel like there was any debris removed ? If so hook it back up and see if it is OK now. Use Affresh washer tablets part # W10549845 monthly to keep the unit fresh and performing optimal. Use a small hose of this type to connect to the pressure hose during a fill. Blow into towards the pressure switch. Does the water stop filling now ? If not then replace the pressure switch part # WP22002921. Open the door. Specifically remove and lay out the door hinges. Remove the door. Slightly twist the top of the outer door panel and pull the front panel back. Lift up and off and set the front panel aside. Look at the pump. Is it leaking ? Use a shop vac. to clean the pump and the sump hoses. Feel inside the pump. Is the pump impeller spinning loose on the pump shaft ? The pump is part # WP22003059. Use the flashlight to see if all electrical connections are tight. Last but not least remove the power. Use a bucket and remove one fill hose at a time. Look inside the water valve inlet areas. Are the screens plugged ? If so this is a normal process because the water tank holds the hot water debris on the bottom of the tank and generally do not circulate much. The cold water has no where to go unless you have installed a whole house water filtration system. The cold water debris collect in the valve screens, allowing the debris to get into the mechanical solenoid plunger and keep it partially open. Allowing constant water fill. Part # WP22002437. Thank You.

Hello Beth. Check and make sure the drain pump is clear and the unit is draining properly. If so, you may have a bad door lock assembly 131763256. Hope this helps.