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Some parts shown may not be for your model. To see parts for your model only, select it from "Matching Model Numbers" list on the left.
The Clamp is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. This clamp ensures tight and secure connections within the dryer, particularly in securing ducts and vents that are essential for proper airflow and operation.
Clamps may need replacement due to loss of tension, corrosion, or damage from regular use. A compromised clamp can lead to operational issues such as prolonged drying times or excessive noise, resulting from loose parts or improper ventilation.
Symptoms of a bad Clamp include:
This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.
Our Maytag gas clothes dryer was not drying like it should/used to and was making a lot of noise. After researching online I figured the vent was partially blocked and/or the blower wheel was bad. When I took it apart, the vent had very little lint in the lower elbow exiting the back of the dryer but the blower wheel was loose on the shaft and was missing the clamp. I cleaned out the vent and put a hose clamp on the blower wheel to tighten it to the shaft and tried it again. The noise was... Read more
The Idler Shaft Retaining Ring is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool dryers. Also called an "E" ring, it is a sealing gasket positioned between the front and rear housing omponents. Maintaining an airtight seal prevents gas leakage and promotes efficient drying performance.
Causes of a bad retaining ring commonly involve compression loss of the rubber gasket material over many years of heating cycles. Exposure to petroleum-based cleaners may prematurely deteriorate the seal as well.
Symptoms of a failed 'E' ring include:
This OEM Whirlpool replacement part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore gas dryer models.
First replaced the drum rollers...that wasn't it..took dryer back apart and spun the belt tension wheel by hand (should have done this the first time I took the dryer apart) and it squeaked. so I ordered the full parts: wheel, idler arm, idler spring, arm sleeve, E ring..Put it back together and whoa..no more squealing!! Read more
Pivoting metal arm that maintains belt tension in your dryer's drive system. Replace if bent, cracked, or wobbling excessively when drum is removed.
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing 2 screws and lifting it up and out. Then I removed 4 screws from the bracket holding the tub in place. I had previously removed the 4 screws from the rear inspection cover so I reached in and released the spring loaded belt that turns the tub and then removed the idler pulley wheel. The tub just lifts out at that point, exposing the 2 Drum support rollers in the rear. I removed the 2 rear drum support rollers and decided to order 2 of... Read more
Dryer won't heat or start? This thermal fuse cuts power when temperatures get too high. Test with a multimeter for continuity. Easy DIY repair.
Did some dryer repair research (dryer not heating) on the internet. Bought an ohm meter, opened up the dryer and tested the cut-off-T, high limit thermostat, dryer igniter, flame sensor, cycling thermostat for continuity. The igniter was bad, the other parts tested ok. Went online to AppliancePartsPros.com searched for a new igniter for my specific dryer model, found the right replacement igniter and watched the video on how to replace the igniter. Because my dryer is old (15+ years) and I... Read more
The Whirlpool screw is an OEM replacement part responsible for securing various components or parts on different types of Whirlpool appliances. The screw is designed to provide a secure and reliable fastening connection, ensuring that different parts of the appliance stay in place. It is commonly used in different locations within the appliance, such as the cabinet, panels, or other structural elements. This part fixes the following symptoms:
The Whirlpool screw can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.
One day my wife went to bake something and the bake/broil buttons as well as #3, #9, and oven light ceased to work. Local repair guy came by and wanted to charge $500 to fix it....YEAH RIGHT! Did a little homework and found this website, spoke with knowledgable staff who pointed me in the right direction. Took me all of about 20 minutes to install new control panel..everything works perfect...THANKS! p.s. In doing my research come to find Maytag did little to insulate control panel from oven... Read more
This Hex Nut is a small but critical fastener used to secure brackets, panels, and internal assemblies in your appliance. Replacing a stripped, corroded, or missing nut restores a tight, rattle-free, and safe installation.
It took me about 2 hours to take everything apart and get it back together & running again with no problems. All the parts I ordered were exactly what I needed to fix everything. Thank you all !!! Read more
Factory fastener screw secures panels, brackets, and trim inside appliances. Replace missing, stripped, or damaged screws to restore tight fit.
Secures components with constant tension to prevent looseness and vibration. Replace if broken, fatigued, or missing. Verify fit with your model number.
Replaced them. Read more
Maintains proper spacing and alignment in your dryer's belt path. Replace if you hear squeaking or notice belt tracking issues. Verify fit with your model.
I replaced the motor and all other moving components along with the felt drum seals.drum glides and drive belt. The wiring instruction is where i had the most problems. Because my wiring had only 4 wires in the harness not 5, and one was a different color then the instructions call out, I believe was because it might have been and older model. the instruction called for a gray wire but mine was white with a blue piggy back wire attached. but after finding a few videos on line i figured that the... Read more
Dryer won't heat or flame cycles on and off? A warped burner assembly prevents reliable ignition. Moderate DIY repair restores even drying.
When I first looked at my dryer I thought it was my ignitor, on a closer look I found that about an inch of my burner assembly arm was laying in a corroded mess on the bottom pan of my dryer. I came online and found your website. After reviewing your parts I thought well I can probably get those local and with competive pricing. Wrong!! There are 3 appliance parts stores withing about 3 miles and I checked them all. Higher prices by 25-35% and longer wait times than your advertised... Read more
Seals blower housing to prevent air leaks and lint escape. Replace when you notice lint buildup in your home or reduced drying efficiency. Confirm fit with your model number.
Took the front panel off (the door front), disconnected the connector to the door switch and used a wooden clothespin to bypass the door switch. Turned on the dryer to locate loud squeaking sound and found it was coming from the motor area. When I started to take the blower section apart from the motor, that is when I saw the "blower wheel" slipped off the motor shaft. The blower wheel has a "C" clip retainer and compression ring to keep it snug on the motor shaft (but it was loose). Now I... Read more
Fix a dryer that won't start on certain settings or changes cycles unpredictably with this cycle selector switch. Lets you choose the operating cycle.
This is a metal clip that secures the drive motor in place within the dryer cabinet. It clamps around the motor housing to prevent movement during operation. Replace this clip if it is broken, missing, or bent, which can cause the motor to shift and create excessive vibration, rattling noises, or belt misalignment.
Dryer quit working on a Saturday night. Ordered parts Sunday and they arrived Wednesday installed Thursday afternoon all parts fit perfectly and the dryer runs quietly. Positive experience. Read more
This retaining ring secures a component in its groove on a shaft or housing, keeping parts aligned and in place during operation. Replace a bent, stretched, or missing ring to restore a tight hold and reduce movement or noise.
Replaced pin Read more
Specs: No.8X1/2 HEX WASHER HEAD
Replaced the control board after removing the inner door liner, plastice board cover and board itself, by removing screws, working various plastic clips/tabs and unclipping wire harnesses from board. most of time was spent cleaning the black soot from the door, which had a terrible burnt electrical/plastic fire smell. Cleaned mold/scale off of as much of the door as I could while in there as well. Removing parts without breaking plastic tabs to hold the new parts was trickiest part. Read more
This 250V, 1A fuse protects your washer's control circuit from overcurrent. Replacing it can restore control power once the root cause is corrected.
Lid switch problem. Easy to fix, not so easy to diagnose. First thing to look at if something goes wrong and there does not appear to overtly be mechanical issue like pump, etc. Read more
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