Frigidaire Washer Control Board

This was the motor control board (also called the speed control board, motor control unit, or MCU in various places across the web). The repair was straightforward, except for two complications. First the old part was difficult to access in this model washer (Frigidaire Gallery Series front load washer). Instead of being easy to reach on the left side where there was space, it was sort of behind the actual motor on the right side of the housing. I spent some time trying to figure out... Read more

• Timer will not advance

I replaced the timer Read more

After first doing a Google/YouTube search, There was only one "hit" on my search results. Next I went to an appliance message board forum but after almost a week and more than a dozen views, no response was received. This is unusual. I've been on this board before with positive results. They also changed the "rules" for DIYers which could explain why I didn't have a lot of response from the experts. I attempted to get the unit into diagnostics mode. I was unable to clear the E90 "general... Read more

Well it was easier it took me less than 30 minutes and my hasher is ready to be used thankyou. Read more

I replaced the control board. Read more

I ordered the control board because the old one had many (about 30) opens on the back of the control board and the plastic cover for it was warped. Helpful notes; put front cover on before you connect the wiring. This will save you hours of being mad! All the plugins have different ends, you can't screw it up! Third note, those little plastic light transmitters can be put in wrong and it will not go together. Tabs go in! The one set by the start button can be put in backwards and looks correct.... Read more

About a year ago, the washer was doing a similar thing, where it would shut off before the spin cycle started. The coin trap was completely clogged then, so I checked it first this time. It was clear, so I took the drain pump out and checked that as well. Nothing seemed to be physically wrong with the machine, so I put it in diagnostic mode, which gave me error code 43 when I tried the spin cycle. This one of the codes for a bad control board. Replacing the board only took about 15 minutes.... Read more

SELF REPAIR, WITH A VIDEO EXAMPLE. Read more

Changed the control board Read more

After taking the top off the washer I found the Tech Data Sheet ( for repair person ) The E53 code was listed as Low Voltage to the motor board and referred me to test #15. Which stated to check the "drum water NTC" ( Negative Temperature Coefficient or Thermistor). What was misleading was that there are 2 NTC's. If your washer has a "Sanitize" feature , then there is a drum water NTC as well as one on the fill valve body. IF you have the sanitize feature then you need to replace the drum water... Read more

Very easy - removed cover, removed dials (had to look at new one to see there were threads on the shaft so the dial had to be screwed out. Two screws holding timer to faceplate. Two connection plugs that came out easily. Job took 10 minutes. Read more

After asking a few question to a repairman I took machine apart checked waterlines and water orifices for clogs....none. Did a ohm check of the four water regulating solenoids....OK! Next and last was the control board. Ran machine in other cycles soap dumped. Control board....BAD! Replaced it. It all works fine now. Total time for repair about an hour. Saved $200+part for a repairman to come out and do it. Total cost $140 for part. Read more

Ordered the replacement timer (perfect match, packed nicely, and delivered on the 3rd day after order!), sprayed a tiny bit of grease on the motor gear, and a little silicone spray on the control wheel, and installed the part. Also, noticed that a badly balanced wash load could cause the tub to slam into the edge of the timer. I fashioned a cushion out of heavy foam and attached it under the center metal brace on top, to dampen the upward movement of the drum. New timer works great. Time... Read more