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The Drive Motor is an OEM component for Whirlpool electric and gas dryers. It powers the rotating drum and tumbling of clothes during drying cycles.
The drive motor may fail due to wear and tear over time, electrical issues, or damage to the motor's internal components. Regular use, exposure to lint and dust, and overheating can contribute to motor failure.
Symptoms of a bad drive motor include:
This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.
This was a Maytag DE312 actually a Whirlpool labeled as Maytag) and is 27 years old. Replaced motor, drive belt and drum rollers. One tricky part was the motor because the new motor comes with integral starter and it was necessary to cut off existing female spade connectors on some wires and crimp on new connectors. Instructions were adequate but need to be carefully followed and a decent electrical stripping and crimping tool must be at hand. I bought a new motor drive pulley because another... Read more
The Cycling Thermostat is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. It regulates and monitors the temperature inside the dryer during the drying cycle. It ensures that the dryer doesn't overheat and prevents potential damage to clothes or the dryer itself.
Causes of a faulty cycling thermostat can include wear and tear over time, electrical issues, or sensor malfunction.
Symptoms of a bad cycling thermostat may include:
This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.
This Maytag dryer was bought in 1985 if memory serves. It has worked hard with few repairs done by yours truly over the years. Thanks to the engineering and excellent design by Maytag staff, removing parts are relatively easy. Once I opened the unit, I found it to be full of lint. I cleaned the entire inside and the vent pipe duct work. I found the blower wheel assembly worn. Though it was not cause of my problem, I decided to change it along with the igniter, heater relay and the fan belt. I... Read more
Prevents lint buildup and moisture escape between drum and front panel. Replace when cracked, flaking, or separated. Confirm fit with your model number.
Started my Maytag dryer (model LDE8200ACW) with a large load early Saturday morning and immediately heard a noticeable thumping noise as the drum turned. Opened the door and checked to make sure some of the laundry hadn’t wadded up and was causing the thumping. Restarted it but the thumping was still present. Did a google search for obvious possible causes for the symptoms but the only suggestion that made sense was to check and make sure the dryer wasn’t rocking on its feet. Checked and found... Read more
Protects the idler arm and ensures smooth belt tension operation in your dryer. Replace if you hear grinding noises or notice excessive arm movement.
Fix was trivial. Took less than 30 minutes to change the old parts out. This dryer is about 20 years old and now we hope to get a few more years out of it. Read more
This is a small fiber washer that fits on the drum support roller shaft inside the dryer. It acts as a spacer and bearing surface to reduce friction and keep the drum roller properly positioned. Replace this washer if the dryer makes squealing, thumping, or scraping noises during operation, or if the drum rollers appear to wobble or wear unevenly.
In the past, I replaced some electronic components on our gas dryer, the solenoid and the electronic ignitor, but the rest of the dryer looked more difficult to repair if needed in the future. I was wrong. I went unto AppliancePartsPros.com and watched some repair videos on dryers like mine that make big thumping sounds while drying. This happened when I googled my dryer model number in an attempt to find out is capacity, because I wanted our new dryer to have the same capacity. I found out... Read more
Idler pulley assembly for dryers. Mounts on the idler arm to keep the belt aligned and tensioned. Replace if pulley is worn, cracked, or squeaking.
The very easy diagnosis was motor seizure. Because the machine is about a decade old, I decided to renovate most of the guts. My DIY project included replacing the motor, blower, drum bearing, belt, and door hinge. The end result is a functional dryer with no left-over parts. Lack of parts and hardware challenged the effort. For example, the blower assembly did not have the slide capture for the motor. I had to use the old one which is showing its age. With the exception of the drum... Read more
Dryer not heating or flame goes out after igniting? This flame sensor monitors burner temperature to regulate gas flow. Easy 15-minute DIY repair.
Being a complete DIY I hate to call some unknown person into my home knowing that just to get them there will cost me more than I will spend for parts that I don't need.After all, they are trying to make a living and by selling me parts that I don't need will increase their profits. I've dealt with APP before and was impressed by their site because I could find both mechanical and electrical drawings for almost everything I have. I looked up my dryer, decided what was probably the problem,... Read more
Dryer won't heat or overheats? High limit thermostat prevents overheating by shutting off heat at high temps. Easy DIY repair with video guide.
For several months we could smell a slight odor of propane in the laundry room and wondered why, just didn't seem like it was enough to be overly concerned, but thought something must be wrong with the dryer, but it was still working. We just didn't know how inefficiently. Then the extra time it took to dry a load of clothes progressively seemed to get longer, but things still seemed to work fine and the clothes got dried, given enough time. Then approximately 3 weeks ago we noticed the dryer... Read more
Supports the rear of your dryer drum for smooth, even rotation. Replace if drum wobbles, makes noise, or doesn't turn properly. Verify fit by model number.
The dryer is a Kenmore Laundry Center, model 417-99570150. Bought in 1998, so it is an older model. Not wanting to buy the newer ones that are out now. We opted to fix the Kenmore. Just believe the older models are worth fixing, if at all possible. Frist we had to figure out what parts we would need and if the cost would be worth our time. I went on YouTube: and type in Kenmore dryer not turning on. Watched several videos to narrow down the possible problem. Next step was to... Read more
The Clamp is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. This clamp ensures tight and secure connections within the dryer, particularly in securing ducts and vents that are essential for proper airflow and operation.
Clamps may need replacement due to loss of tension, corrosion, or damage from regular use. A compromised clamp can lead to operational issues such as prolonged drying times or excessive noise, resulting from loose parts or improper ventilation.
Symptoms of a bad Clamp include:
This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.
Our Maytag gas clothes dryer was not drying like it should/used to and was making a lot of noise. After researching online I figured the vent was partially blocked and/or the blower wheel was bad. When I took it apart, the vent had very little lint in the lower elbow exiting the back of the dryer but the blower wheel was loose on the shaft and was missing the clamp. I cleaned out the vent and put a hose clamp on the blower wheel to tighten it to the shaft and tried it again. The noise was... Read more
The Idler Shaft Retaining Ring is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool dryers. Also called an "E" ring, it is a sealing gasket positioned between the front and rear housing omponents. Maintaining an airtight seal prevents gas leakage and promotes efficient drying performance.
Causes of a bad retaining ring commonly involve compression loss of the rubber gasket material over many years of heating cycles. Exposure to petroleum-based cleaners may prematurely deteriorate the seal as well.
Symptoms of a failed 'E' ring include:
This OEM Whirlpool replacement part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore gas dryer models.
First replaced the drum rollers...that wasn't it..took dryer back apart and spun the belt tension wheel by hand (should have done this the first time I took the dryer apart) and it squeaked. so I ordered the full parts: wheel, idler arm, idler spring, arm sleeve, E ring..Put it back together and whoa..no more squealing!! Read more
Pivoting metal arm that maintains belt tension in your dryer's drive system. Replace if bent, cracked, or wobbling excessively when drum is removed.
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing 2 screws and lifting it up and out. Then I removed 4 screws from the bracket holding the tub in place. I had previously removed the 4 screws from the rear inspection cover so I reached in and released the spring loaded belt that turns the tub and then removed the idler pulley wheel. The tub just lifts out at that point, exposing the 2 Drum support rollers in the rear. I removed the 2 rear drum support rollers and decided to order 2 of... Read more
The Dryer Seal is an OEM replacment part for Frigidaire dryers. It is located at the doorway opening where the drum rotates and helps prevent lint, moisture, and heat from escaping. The seal is a crucial component that ensures efficient drying and heat retention within the dryer drum.
Causes of a bad seal can include wear and tear over time from continuous use or damage due to mishandling. The nylon seal experiences a lot of friction and heat stress with each drying cycle.
Symptoms of a bad seal include:
This OEM Frigidaire replacement part is also compatible with Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, and Kenmore models.
Get some acetone at a Hardware Store before you start. A pint will do. Unplug the dryer from 110 VAC. Pull the top off of the dryer, by lifting it from the front first. It is attached with snap metal fittings. Do not completely remove the top, just tip upright to gain access to the front interior of the dryer. Before you pull any wires from the door switch, record which color wires go to which terminals on the door switch. If you reassemble the connections incorrectly, the gas value will... Read more
The Door Catch Kit is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. It includes the door catch and the necessary mounting hardware to secure it in place. This kit ensures the dryer door remains securely closed during operation, preventing heat loss and ensuring the appliance functions efficiently.
Causes of a bad door catch include regular wear and tear, physical damage, or misalignment of the door, which can impact the catch's ability to latch properly.
Symptoms of a bad door catch include:
Ordered a new clip and installed it. Easy to do. Unplugged the dryer. Removed the front. It is only held on by two screws. Removed wires to the door switch. removed the female end (it had the broken male piece in it. Inserted the new female part in the front, clipped in the male part into the door and reconnected the door switch wires, screwed the front back on. Job done. Total time was less than 10 minutes. Works like new. Read more
This metal bracket supports the drum bearing at the rear of the dryer, helping to hold the drum in proper alignment as it rotates. It provides a stable mounting point for the bearing assembly that the drum rides on. Replace this bracket if the dryer makes squealing, grinding, or thumping noises during operation, or if the drum wobbles and does not spin smoothly.
I watched the helpful diy video. It gave me what the problem was and the confidence to do it. Took my dryer apart with the helpful hints in the video repair went smooth. Works like a dream and I saved money. Thank you appliance parts pros. Read more
Dryer door won't stay closed? The door strike secures the door latch during operation. Quick DIY fix—installs from the front in minutes.
My dryer door would not stay shut because the door strike was stuck in the door catch. I was afraid that when I pulled the strike out, it would damage the catch, so I ordered the door strike and door catch. I got the damaged door strike out with needle nosed pliers in about 15 seconds. The door catch was in perfect condition so I didn't need to use the one I ordered. So then I proceeded to install the new door strike. That took me about 15 minutes because I did not have the manual strength to... Read more
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