Frigidaire 134417000 Seal OEM Part

Get some acetone at a Hardware Store before you start. A pint will do. Unplug the dryer from 110 VAC. Pull the top off of the dryer, by lifting it from the front first. It is attached with snap metal fittings. Do not completely remove the top, just tip upright to gain access to the front interior of the dryer. Before you pull any wires from the door switch, record which color wires go to which terminals on the door switch. If you reassemble the connections incorrectly, the gas value will not open, and the dryer will not heat. In one combination the door light does come on, but the gas valve to the burner will not open although the electric ignition will work. The vertical front could be attached by either snap fittings or sheet metal screws or some combination. You will likely need a Nut Driver or Philips head screw driver. The plastic door light assembly may be brittle from years of heat. You should consider replacing this item. Remove the front panel completely. It will lift out of it bottom fittings. While you have the dryer apart, vacuum all the lint out. Vacuum out the dryer exhaust pipe. This will reduce the fire hazard. If your exhaust hose is flexible plastic or aluminum, get rid of it. It is a major fire hazard and burning lint is nearly explosive. Yes, Aluminum will burn. Replace it with Sheet Metal Steel Ducting. The old Felt Glide Assembly was removed by ripping it off the surface of the drum lip support, and then using Acetone to completely clean the surface. With some effort, the old adhesive and felt left behind will come off easily. Some of the felt at about the 10:00 o'clock position on the frame next to the Felt Guide Assembly will likely be worn, so use some of the removed felt to replace that portion that is worn. You may need to replace about a 4 inch section. What felt you reuse will likely have rust in it and some of your clothes will have "spider" looking rust stains. This is because the clothes being dried have been caught between the worn felt "seal" and the rotating drum, collecting the rust. The rust will come out of your clothes with multiple washings. Clean the reused felt with water, and get all the rust out. If you have a wet vac, you will be able to get the reused felt dry very quickly, in minutes. In an extreme condition of wear, the entire felt "seal" should be removed and replaced along with the Felt Guide Assembly. Once the metal surface is COMPLETELY clean, apply the included adhesive to the metal surface. Remember that about 1/8 inch of the Felt Glide Assembly will extend into the drum where the clothes are dried, so apply the adhesive only on that portion of the felt that will come in contact with metal drum (which is most of the felt). The adhesive will set in 3 minutes so do not delay. It will take about 10 minutes for the adhesive to fully adhere to the Felt Glide Assembly to drum. Once that has occurred, you can reassemble the dryer, and it will be ready to go by the time you get all the pieces back together. The entire project from first disconnecting the electrical power to the dryer assembly, end of clean up, and testing and ready to use, took about 3 hours. That time is by somebody who did this project only once before about 10 years earlier, but has some moderate to advanced mechanic skills. Anybody can do this job. Just give yourself plenty of time. The first time around, from start to ready-to-use took about 5 hours.

This was not a difficult repair, thankfully someone else had posted the same problem and a new motor was in order. After I removed the drum, I spun the motor shaft by hand and sure enough it worked. This was a partially defective motor that did not have enough power to initiate operation. I ordered a new motor along with a new blower seal and lower felt seal. I did not need the felt seal, but it comes with a tube of high heat glue which I needed to replace the blower seal. It was 12.00 for the lower felt seal and glue, but if you buy the glue separately, it will set you back 25 bucks. So just go ahead and get the lower felt seal kit, along with a blower seal. BTW, if you remove the front of the dryer which you will have to do to remove the drum, to get to the motor, you will probably tear the blower seal and you need to replace it in my opinion so you dont just blow lint alll over the interior of the dryer. That will wear out parts inside faster. It isnt a bad idea to replace the lower felt seal at the same time, just do it first before you do the blower seal. Don't forget to save enough glue for the blower seal. If you're afraid you'll run out, buy two kits. you will still be in it less than the cost of one tube separately. Good videos from this site to show you how to do it. Also buy a can of "Pure Citrus" orange air freshener at Wal-mart to remove the glue from the old seals, and use some Awsome Orange or Oxy Clean or some other kind of degreaser to clean off the "solvent" (air freshener.) They recommend not using the dryer for 24 hours to let the high temp cement cure. My dryer works fine now. Blower is left hand thread, you will need to remove it from the motor shaft. It takes a 7/8ths socket.

My 2007 Frigidaire Dryer started making scraping noises when running so I googled possible reasons and ended up here. Being a single mom with two boys, I don't have extra money laying around to buy a new dryer so, with some research and watching the videos, I decided to try the repair myself. I replaced the Rear Drum Bearing Kit, the glides, the belt and the blower seal inside the door. It certainly wasn't as easy to fix as the video showed. I had difficulty getting the drum back into place because it wouldn't stay level. There was a drum support piece in the video that wasn't available to be bought so I asked on this site and found out the front panel would keep the drum in place. All in all, with me working full time, it took about a week to fix and clean everything and get the dryer back together. I ran it for the first time today and it's quieter and dries faster than it ever has before. What used to take 90 minutes on high heat to dry a load now takes 60 minutes on medium high. Would I try to repair it again? Probably not as it was very difficult for me. The hardest part was getting the front panel back on. It took both my two sons and myself to manhandle it into place and get it to hang right so we could get the screws to line up. Also, threading the rear drum with new screws was difficult because you need quite a bit of hand strength. I almost gave up many times but in the end persevered and now have a running dryer again. Thank you for the detailed videos on your site. Without them, I would never have attempted this repair and would be out about $1000 now.

I couldn't quite pin-point my noise. It was a 'chugging', rumbling noise, and somewhat irregular. Definitely not a 'screeching,' and the belt appeared fine; most of the online videos I saw assigned a "chugging" or "train" noise to the belt or tensioner. I tried the 'maintenance kit' (bearing, belt, tensioner, felt), the overall noise was better, but the chugging noise was as bad as ever. That left only the blower and the motor as moving parts. Sure enough, when I looked at the fan, the fan had become detached from the fastener, and had slipped forward, spinning against the edge of the housing. You could tell the front edge was wearing away -- and the foam seal was worn where the blades rubbed against it. And the front of the dryer was very hot; a potential safety hazard, really. Now I've basically rebuilt the internals, between the maintenance kit and the blower housing. But, my wife says it is so quiet now, she has to remind herself that it's operating correctly. Here's hoping we get another five to ten years out of it.

I replaced the parts as shown in the helpful videos on the appliancepartspro.com website. The installation was relatively simple and did not take much time to install the parts.