Whirlpool Microwave Parts

It is difficult (if not impossible) to remove the electronic switches from the hard plastic latches. I replaced all three switches and both the upper and lower latches I also replaced the main 20 amp ceramic fuse which blew out when the latch/switches failed. Read more

Very easy fix. Unplugged microwave, then lowered bottom panel, removed the two leads to the turntable motor, removed two screws attached to motor, removed old motor, put new spacer on motor stem, installed motor with same two screws, reattached the two wires, reattached panel ( after cleaning all the grease that built up over the last 6 years), plugged microwave in and good as new! Took me twenty minutes. Note: the two screws holding the motor were not Phillips like those holding the panel. So... Read more

I'm a 56 year old divorced woman. I started doing these kinds of repairs to save some money and honestly, to see if I could. So yes, if I can do it, it's not that tough to do. My microwave is built in above the stove - getting it down and back up was the hardest part of the job. An extra pair of strong hands really helps-for anybody, not just a 56 year old woman. The actual repair was pretty easy. Most likely problem was pretty obvious after a little research. Easy to take off cover, get... Read more

I found a walk-through on the handle replacement off of YouTube, the vent was straight forward, it now looks brand new again, thank you! Read more

Bought a new home with microwave venting into kitchen. Ordered damper assembly needed to vent through the wall to the outside. Removed microwave, followed directions in original installation instructions, turned fan over, cut hole in wall, installed wall cap and replaced oven. Problem solved. Read more

Whirlpool microwave model MH8150XJQ-0 manufactured May 2002. The outer door frame and vent grill became brittle, developed cracks and breaks with little pieces around the screws falling off... that sort of thing. It's over 20 years old so no complaints. The rest of the microwave is fine and since it's mounted over the stovetop, I don't want to deal with measuring, selecting, removing, installing, etc. when this one still works. I'm glad AppliancePartsPros had the parts. Anyone considering this... Read more

Replacing a magnetron in my particular 9-year-old microwave (a microwave/hood combination) was not a simple “plug & play” operation. That is why I am placing this in the slightly difficult area. First, it takes 2 people to remove the microwave from the top of the stove. Next the main outer panel need to be removed. After that, 2 sheet metal panels need to be removed in order to expose the high voltage components for testing. Always discharge the high voltage capacitor first before doing... Read more

I attempted to diagnose the four thermostats/thermal switches in the microwave....two right behind the control panel, one on top of the cooking cabin, and one under a metal shroud above the magnetron. While checking continuity with a voltmeter, i questioned one of them behind the control panel and the one above the magnetron. I then noticed a burn mark on the plastic connector sleeve for the one above the magnetron. I took a scrap piece of 14 gage copper wire and beat the ends flat with a... Read more

Well, I gotta say I was happy to find you still had parts for almost 20 year old microwaves. The microwave itself worked fine, so I hated to have to buy a new one, but I just couldn't take being hit in the head anymore; and my fix of using string and wire to tie it to the surrounding cabinets was unsightly to say the least. I'm glad I did some research and found this part - all I had to do was pop it in place and now the vent grill is secure. Problem solved with minimal cost. Read more

Checked switch with a voltmeter, determined the switch was bad. Ordered a new switch....watched a short how to you-tube video.....and from there.....it was fixed. Read more

It is difficult (if not impossible) to remove the electronic switches from the hard plastic latches. I replaced all three switches and both the upper and lower latches I also replaced the main 20 amp ceramic fuse which blew out when the latch/switches failed. Read more

Replaced bulb and socket. Install new grease filters, easier than cleaning. Read more

• Door won't close

My microwave was stainless steel. I ordered the part for stainless steel, but it was not identical in color. It was black and not the gray color of stainless steel. However, I removed the stainless steel (the actual metallic) frame from my broken grille (bent back a few metal tabs and pried loose the adhesive tape with a putty knife). Then I placed it on my new black plastic part and reassembled to the microwave. I find that it looks perfectly acceptable and maybe even nicer with the black as... Read more

I started by watching the video posted by couple of people on youtube on how to replace a microwave handle. After taking out the liner, I hit a roadblock with unscrewing the handle screw. The grip on the front side had basically melted causing it to be loose, so the screw and the plastic part would rotate together. After trying several things, I gave up and took it to Ace hardware to find an extractor of some sort. Luckily, the guys there used several tools and managed to get the screw out.... Read more

You guys said my part would get here in 2 days, it got here in 2 days. No problem with the part, fixed my microwave in 10 minutes. Thanks! Read more

Obtained the replacement motor and tray coupler from Appliance Parts Pro. Video of the typical replacement was very helpful to show what to expect and how to replace the motor and coupler. The removal of the bottom plate was held in place by several phillips screws. The motor was attached with two torx screws. The electric connection clips to the motor required needle nose pliers to pull them off. The tray coupler was simple to install after the motor was secured and bottom plate was replaced.. Read more